20 Most Recent Danco CORP A0089221 KITCHEN SPRAY HEAD AND HOSE ASSEMBLY Questions & Answers

Looking into the opening in your pipe, wrap the tape on in a clockwise direction. The smaller the pipe, the less wraps. 1/8" to 3/8" I use 2-3 wraps. 1/2" to 3/4" use 4-5 wraps. Teflon fills any gaps or voids that may occur between the male and female threads.

If teflon tape was used, most likely the base casting split as overtighting can occur.

If it's from the fitting where the sprayer head is attached to the hose check to see if there is a rubber washer. If the leak is not from the lack of a washer or damaged washer. Uninstall and take back for a replacement. There is nothing wrong with what you did. It should not be leaking.

Most of those have a quarter turn plastic pie section at the top of the stem. It reverses for right or left (cold or hot) faucets. Turn off the water supplies, remove the top of the faucet and handles, put the pie shaped sections on opposite sides, reinstall the handles and turn the water supplies back on.

Each manufacturer has a different size shower spout. As long as the fitting doesn't leak, put a flange up against the wall and if needed, use calking to fill the space. This is an aesthetic issue only.

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check out this http://www.fixya.com/support/t24874427-way_correct_install_7s_10d_danco_delta#solution-section

The issue might be the tub diverter spout. Most such do not seal well. It is a matter of jiggling the spout knob. It should seal better with a little experimenting.

Umm, yeah I think so....

Step 1. First things first, load test the battery. Most places like Auto Zone will do it for free. Even if it measures over 12.5 vdc it can still be bad under a load. Battery is typically rated at 19 amp hours and 270 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA).

Start the engine and measure DC Volts across the battery terminals, the regulator should be putting out 14.3 - 14.7 vdc at 3600 rpm and 75 degrees F.


Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.

To do this with a meter which is more accurate: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.


Step 3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for the TC88 32 amp system.


Step 4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).


Step 5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.


Step 6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if if passed step 2).