20 Most Recent KitchenAid KSBP25FKSS Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Is there a wire/bar that goes across the ice bucket? As ice fills the bar raises up and eventually goes high enough to shut the maker off until the level goes down. You can manually lift the bar up to ~ horizontal until it clicks in place and stays there. That should shut it off until you move it back down. If there is no bar, then I guess there in no way your ice maker knows when it is full and keeps producing. Perhaps the bar was removed, bent or broken off. At least tht is one type of ice maker I'm familiar with. Other types my have different ways to tell the maker it's full.

if everything is fine, then what is the question ? if it isn't cooling, get a trained refrigeration technician to look into fixing it. refrigeration equipment takes specialized equipment and training well beyond the average homeowner tools or skillset.

if water keeps running to the icemaker, a valve has been obstructed by scale/lime/granular particles, and cannot close when icemaker has filled with water. you need to find that valve and either clean it out or replace it. (or get a repairman and pay the price for the fix.)

How often do you change filter. Maybe filter was so clogged that it wasn't allowing water through

Thank you for listing a model#!! It really helps to see what you have and lets me diagnose it better for you. Whirlpool bottom freezers with ice forming on the freezer floor is nothing new. It is formed most likely by an ongoing issue with the design of the defrost drain becoming clogged and there is a revised kit for it part# W10619951. Whirlpool has extended the warranty of this issue only to two years from the date of purchase and will usually give you the part but charge for install. This is for most models and you would have to call them to verify if it is covered. It can be put in in less then 10 minutes using just a 1/4" hex bit and a small flat blade screwdriver to release the clip on the old "slide" style drain. Once installed,it is best to defrost the fridge for at least 24 hours (doors open and unplugged) to make sure all ice is melted from inside the unit. The problem should not come back afterward

this is usually the door switch

Could be the Outlet valve is going bad.

Hi. I would check the auto defrost element if it has one.

you have a defrost problem!!!the evaporator coil is getting covered with ice and the evap fan can't blow the cold air from the freezer into the fridge section,you could have a bad jazz board,the machine isn't going into defrost this is your problem send me the full model number,it should be up on the right hand side wall up near the ceiling in the fridge section,if you have the control up in the fridge section on the front top and it's digital saying like 4 and 4 you most likely have a bad jazz board,if so open the door or if you have french doors open the right door,hold the light switch in,press the down key three times,let go of the door or light switch,now press the button down again and you'll see like s and p or something like that then press it down again and it should go back to 4 and 4 shut the door and open the freezer,you just manually put the fridge into defrost,but if the compressor is still running and you'll hear it this is the easiest way to tell the jazz board is bad,after like 5 minutes you should hear the ice crackling if the board is good,that's the heater coming on melting the ice but send me the model number and i can help you out.

Could be a pressure valve. Generally, Freon leaks are rare and never 100% full. Filling was a waste as it had no bearing on your problem. There is a high and low side on the compressor and if the technician tested the values correctly, you should have a positive result. Call him back for better assessment and have him do a better job this time around.

the temp you see are the temp valve inside, the set temp is only displayed while you are setting it. It maybe in defrost and you would see higher that set temp valves, if after an hour you do not see the temp come back down to normal operating values you should then see additional assistance.

Your unit is in need of a auto defrost repair..There are 3 components that might need replacing..1 defrost heater..2 defrost thermostat..3 defrost mechanical timer or newer models have a computer PCB type control..usually all 3 are replaced to guarantee resolve of problem.

you can pop the cover off of the ice maker,on the module you'll see some letters,if you get a jumper wire and stick it into the T and H the ice maker should start to spin,if it doesn't the ice maker is bad,then remove the wire and stick it into the V and L,water should start to fill the ice maker,if it doesn't most likely you have a bad water valve,just get a piece of wire,strip off both ends to make a jumper wire.one more thing,check the fill cup and the fill line to see if there's any ice in there,if the water valve is bad water can drip through and freeze in the cup or fill line stopping the water from entering the ice maker,if there is melt it out with a hair dryer,also if you have to get in there with a hair dryer be careful with the heat on any plastic parts,you can damage it and don't heat the fuse on the ice maker wires,it's a black fuse built into the harness you can damage it if it gets to hot.you can go here to see your parts https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KBFS20EVMS4/0593/0161000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KBF320EVMS4&searchTerm=KBF320EVMS4

Maybe track that rollers move in is the problem. Get someone to physically look at it

Perhaps insulate the line. If this developed recently perhaps there is another problem causing this.

There should be plenty of room where the tubing connects to the water solenoids once you get the cardboard cover off. There should be no need to tilt the refrigerator to do the job.