KitchenAid KSBP25FKSS Side by Side Refrigerator - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Probably not worth to repair. Likely compressor is gone or loose of freon

That information is in the user manual that covers your model number. Below is the procedure for a Side by Side. To look for your manual click=> HERE Press and hold the Water Filter button on the Ice & Water Dispenser control panel for three seconds. When the display changes from "Red" to "Green," the status has been reset. I am here should you need me, Thanks John Tripp Appliance 911 Contact Me Here

I had the same problem and had to have the entire door replaced. I thought it was a random thing since sometimes it would just start working again, but finally it just stopped for good. The wires that
are below the door on the left hand side (you can see them better when the lower front piece is removed) were severed and they can't be put back together without replacing the door. My repair guy (the refrig. was still under warranty) told me it was a design or installation defect and that he has seen it time and again. Evidently, when they install the wiring, they don't leave enough room to stuff the wires out of the way of the closing door and eventually, it severs them over time.

Hi, there is no reset switch. The original fan was not the culprit. The culprit will be the microcomputer(PCB). This board routes the start signal, and power to the fans and compressor unit. The initial intervals are set be the cold control device inside the refrigerator, and freezer. The Microcomputer has several relays mounted on the board. One of the fan relays have failed. This will require you to replace the entire Microcomputer. This will correct the issue. The part number for the replacement computer will be 4389211

It is mounted on the compressor platform, under the control board housing cover.

Hello, Welcome to FixYa. I can't seem to access any previous post dialog that may have taken place but I'd like to help if you can fill me in on whats taken place to this point. I'll wait for you reply to see whats been done or suggested and checked to this point. Regards, Macmarkus :)

if it is making a lot of noise then your compressor is going out, if it is full of dirt dust or debree vacume it, or if you have a air compressor, then blow it out, but unplug your fridge to let the compressor cool down, if it is cold outside and you can wheel it there with no problem then you can clean it . you might have a freon leak or a stuck valve let it get cooled off and try again

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out thelast two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

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Check to be sure your ICE door chute is closed or closing properly! I have encountered many of these units that have had the flap break off the mounting tabs inside the dispenser opening. If the flap appears to be intact, I would next guess that your ice maker timing is allowing the ice maker to over fill and spill water into the ice bucket.
You can confirm this problem by looking at the ice maker and seeing if the ice cubes in it are filled right up to the center bar that drives the cubes out of the mold.
Let me know if you have any more questions!
Thanks, BOB

Hi,

As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor

heatman101

Hello, sounds like the problem here may be a bad compressor relay or compressor. Do you hear a clicking noise coming from the compressor? if so remove the relay which is mounted to the side of the compressor and give it a shake, if it rattles you have a bad relay if it does not rattle you have a bad compressor and should call a service guy. If you have any other questions please feel free to comment. Mike

Me too, same issue. Just changed water filter prior to problem

then you either after doing this have a water to the ice maker problem, or an ice maker issue
go to the water valve and disconnect the small plastic line at the water valve and with a cheater cord connect it to the water valve, naturaly remove the factory connector at the water valve first and plug your cheater cord into the ac if you get water out of the valve the valve is good if you do not the valve is bad

if you get water out of the valve then you have a problem in the ice maker IF the line to the ice maker is clear and no obstructions

hold it in ad remove a a few quarts, you have air trapped in the line (normal after replacing water filter), large pitcher if possible

Troubleshoot step by step and if that fails, resort to a professional: Check the Basics: Make sure the refrigerator is plugged in and receiving power. Verify that the water supply to the refrigerator is turned on. Inspect the Dispenser Actuator: The dispenser actuator is the component that activates the switch to send voltage to the dispenser. Check if the dispenser actuator is damaged. If so, replace it with a new one. I list a procedure for testing this actuator at the end of these basic steps. Frozen Water Tube: Disconnect the water supply tube at the bottom of the door. Blow air through it. If air doesn't pass through, the water supply tube may be frozen. Thaw it out and ensure the freezer is set to the proper temperature (0-10°F) to prevent future freezing. Water Inlet Valve: The water inlet valve opens to supply water to the dispenser. Ensure the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. Use a multimeter to test the water inlet valve for continuity. If it lacks continuity, replace it. Check Water Filter: Remove the water filter and dispense water. If flow increases, the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace the water filter if needed. Verify Water Supply Valve: Ensure the water supply valve (connected to the refrigerator) is fully open. If disconnected during service, it might not have been turned back on fully. And now, the testing of the actuator. To determine whether the dispenser actuator in your KitchenAid refrigerator is damaged, follow these steps: Visual Inspection: Look closely at the dispenser actuator. Check for any visible signs of damage, such as cracks, chips, or breakage. If you notice any physical damage, it's likely that the actuator needs replacement. Functional Test: Press the dispenser lever or button as you normally would to dispense water. Observe the response: Does the actuator move smoothly and engage the switch behind it? If the actuator feels stiff, loose, or doesn't move at all, it may be damaged. Listen for Clicking: When you press the dispenser lever, listen for a clicking sound. The actuator should make a distinct click as it activates the switch. If there's no click or an unusual noise, it could indicate a damaged actuator. Multimeter Test (Advanced): If you have a multimeter, you can perform a continuity test on the actuator. Disconnect the refrigerator from power. Remove the actuator cover (if applicable) to access the actuator. Set the multimeter to the continuity (ohms) setting. Touch the multimeter probes to the actuator terminals. If there's no continuity (infinite resistance), the actuator is likely faulty. Remember to exercise caution when working with electrical components. If you're unsure or uncomfortable performing these checks, consider seeking professional repair assistance. Remember to consult your Owner's Manual for specific instructions related to your model. Much of this information comes from the RepairClinic site.

Question edited for a lot more clarity, 'make model (what it is)'. Question moved for correct category. Yes they are, direct or from Parts Suppliers. https://www.google.com/search?q=KSRS25Q+WH11+door+gasket ..

Possibly you r hhermostat in Fridge section gone bad. (if freezer working then most likely (if freezer at top & fridge has Iced up or food in the freezer or fridge Is Blocking the Air vents inside that circulates the cool air flow to Bottom or top, check & listen to see if Fan is working inside freezer /fridge worst case scenario is (if you have a p.c board on top , that could b a Fault there also (then you need a Tech, ).

You didn't say but you need to turn the breaker off for 10 minutes. Best to you.

I would check the door seals as if not sealing damp air will enter and condense, causing water everywhere.

If the interior controls and lights in your KitchenAid KBFC42FTS refrigerator are blinking but there are no alarms or error codes displayed, it may indicate a problem with the refrigerator's control board or power supply. Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Power cycle the refrigerator by unplugging it from the electrical outlet or turning off the circuit breaker that supplies power to it. Wait for a few minutes and then plug it back in or turn on the circuit breaker.
2. Check the refrigerator's power supply by ensuring that the electrical outlet is working properly and that the power cord is securely plugged in.
3. Check the control board for any signs of damage or corrosion. The control board is usually located on the back of the refrigerator, behind a panel. If you see any damage or corrosion, you may need to replace the control board.
4. Check the wiring connections between the control board and other components such as the lights, fans, and sensors. Loose or damaged wiring can cause communication issues and blinking lights.

If none of these steps resolves the issue, it is recommended that you contact a professional appliance repair service for further assistance. They will have the necessary tools and expertise to diagnose and repair the problem.

1. Check if the fridge is level. If not, adjust the leveling legs.
2. Verify that the condenser coils are clean and free of obstructions.
3. Check the temperature settings and adjust if needed.
4. Ensure that the evaporator fan is working properly and not obstructed.
5. Check the condenser fan for proper operation.
6. If the high-pitched noise persists, it could be a sign of a failed fan motor or other mechanical issue, and a professional repair may be necessary.