20 Most Recent KitchenAid KAWS850L Top Load Washer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

what kind of washer is it top load or front load and brand.?

This is a clear evidence of a broken lid switch. Power to the drive motor is routed through the lid switch during the drain/spin cycle. The machine, therefore, cannot drain and spin when the lid switch is not working. The drain pump doesn't work because it is directly coupled to the rear spline of the motor. Manually activate the lid switch by pushing it down with an insulated tool such a screwdriver. Replace the lid switch to address the problem if the machine still doesn't spin; otherwise it is possibly loose and only needs to re-tightened.

Release the console from the top of the cabinet depending on the model of your machine then pull forward and up on the console and lay it back on the hinges.







Disconnect the lid switch harness connector by pressing on the tab located in the middle and pulling it up.




The cabinet is attached to the rear of the washer by two brass-colored retaining clips. Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the turned-up edge of the clip, located on both sides, and then pry back to release the clip from the slot in the cabinet.




Open and hold the lid while grabbing the cabinet front opening then tilt the top of the cabinet toward you by pulling the cabinet away from the base. This releases the front and back slots of the cabinet from the tabs in the front and back of the base.




Using the side of your leg and/or body as a support for the front of the cabinet, carefully lift up the cabinet and lay the front on a cushioned floor to access the lid switch.




Remove the lid switch ground and mounting screws then release the wire harness from the metal retainers. Pull the lid switch connector out and install the new lid switch in reverse order of the removal steps.




Bring the cabinet to the front of the washer then slide the front bottom rail of the cabinet under the rail at the base of the machine then lay down the cabinet into position. Make sure the slots in the cabinet sit into the tabs at the base of machine. Reconnect the lid switch harness then push the retaining clips back down into position to secure the cabinet to the rear of the machine. Reinstall and secure the console to complete the repair.

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You have one of two problems. If your machine sounds like it's trying to agitate, you will have a bad coupler. If it just does nothing after it fills, your lid switch is bad.
For your lid switch, click on this http://www.partselect.com/MultiModels.aspx?ModelNum=kaws850l&searchTerm=img_HWUP4CX3&RefineSearch=0&imgMfg=Whirlpool tha lid switch is #11. Machine will not agitate without the lid closed and a bad switch makes the machine think that the lid is open.
For your coupler, click on this http://www.partselect.com/MultiModels.aspx?ModelNum=kaws850l&searchTerm=&RefineSearch=0 the coupler is part #13 ( comes with all 3 pieces ) The coupler connects the motor shaft to the transmission. When bad, the motor will spin but the trasmission will not.
Note: Unit will pump water even with a bad coupler because the pump is connected directly to the other side of the motor shaft than the transmission.
Also, to replace the coupler or lid switch. Take the machine apart through the top. Remove screws from the front edge of the console click on this http://www.partselect.com/MultiModels.aspx?ModelNum=kaws850l&searchTerm=&RefineSearch=0 Remove both #8's. and unplug the wire from the lid switch.
Then click on this, http://www.partselect.com/MultiModels.aspx?ModelNum=kaws850l&searchTerm=&RefineSearch=0 and remove both #6's. Once you have removed the #6's, you will be able to pull the case foward just a little. Then you can unattach the hose connections. Once you have deattached everthing holding the case from pulling forword, tilt the case to you and lift off the bottom frame. Now you will be able to replace both the motor coupler and or the lid switch.
If I were you, If the coupler has never been replaced, or if you can see a black dust on the floor under the middle of the unit. I would go ahead and do so. The motor coupler is the most common part to fail on machines like yours. Under normal use they will fail anywhere from every 4 to 8 years. Less if you load it heavy, more if you load it light.
I hope this helps and Good luck

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
This is probably symptomatic of a malfunctioning hot water control valve.
Sorry but it needs a service call and to confirm that it is not something else - like the control board not commanding it to open ;-0(

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi

What about the lid switch, have you already checked that? You can try to jump start the switch by removing that switch and then connecting its two wires together, if the washer spins then replace it, if not then let me know if you hear any noises and the model no and how old is this unit. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
-------------------------------------

If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning!

Good luck!
John C

3 cu. ft.

HI couple things to check, water hoses coming into washer, tip the washer back and look underneath and see if you can see where its coming from, most common leak on this one is the drain pump which is located right on the front of the motor, if you tip the washer back its a plastic pump with 2 big hoses going into it, they usually crack and leak water from there. They are only about $30.00 to buy.


Sean

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France

I mostly answer front load problems but ' out of balance' is a common problem with both!
So- I don't know your particular machine but the initial cure is the same.
It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine, even when empty, has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly ;-0)

Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then-
very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine (sorry about my UK spelling!) and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice.
Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up!
If this corner did not rock do the same to the other.
Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.

If this has not cured the problem it is possible that the internal drum suspension is malfunctioning.

Good luck,

John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France
Here are my general guidance notes for 'banging' washers ;-0)
The last paragraph might be relevant to your situation BUT follow these notes through first, please.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I mostly answer front load problems but ' out of balance' is a common problem with both!
So- I don't know your particular machine but the initial cure is the same.
It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine, even when empty, has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly!
Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then-
very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine (sorry about my UK spelling!) and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice.
Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up!
If this corner did not rock do the same to the other.
Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.

If this has not cured the problem it is possible that the internal drum suspension is malfunctioning.

Good luck,

John C

hi
check the filter it must be cleaned

Hi,

Remove any kinks in the drain hose. Ensure that the washer is not sitting on the hose.

Inspect the household drain. Remove clogs, if possible. Call a plumber if you cannot remove the clogs.

Check the drain and make sure there is an air gap between the hose and drain. An air gap is necessary to prevent the drain hose from siphoning water.

Clean the pump filter. Open the pump access door. Turn the pump filter counter-clockwise and remove it. Remove dirt and debris. Replace the filter and close the pump access door.

Rearrange the clothing in the load. An unbalanced load can prevent the washer from spinning or draining.

Allow the washer to cool down for two hours. If the washer overheats, it will stop the motor and cool down before restarting.

Close the door completely. The washer will not operate if the door is not securely closed.

I hope the above helps.

Good luck.

When it was time for the spinning of the rinse cycle my machine just quit, no power, nothing. I checked the electrical connect, it's fine. It just seems that there is no power because it doesn't hum or anything. Thanking you, PJO

My Kitchenaid M/N# KAWS700G00 will not drain after the rinse cycle neither will it go to the spin cycle

check the drive coupling between the motor and transmission,they strip out after years of use,they are plastic

Pump may be bad or drain line clogged. good luck