20 Most Recent KitchenAid KHWS01PWH Global Horizontal Axis Washer Questions & Answers

Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation: AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section. u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.

Hi , washer is not spinning . found motor coupler had broken . need help on the best way to replace .

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry, this FixYa Washer Forum does not supply service centre numbers, engineers, spares or spares sources, software, installation instructions or prices; it is just made up of ordinary guys and gals, probably at home, from all over the world, with experience of addressing problems and giving guidance for free on the web ;-0)

You will either have to search in your local telephone directories OR stay on line and search for '(make) washer service' for instance or '(make) washer spares' and hope that you can find someone/somewhere reasonably local.
Sorry again ;-0(

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

This is probably simply a problem with your empty pump filter being clogged. The empty cycle is timed and if it can't get all the water out in time because the filter is blocked and slowing the empty down, then it will fail safe and won't step on to the final spin cycle with excess water in the drum. Your repeat of the rinse/spin cycle is giving it extra empty time and then the spin works OK. You need to locate and clean the filter. Depending on the model (not sure which with the model you mention) there is either a round filter cap on the front of the machine at the bottom (It may be behind a small door or hidden behind a clip on panel on the bottom) Many models of this design also have a small hose to the right of the filter cap that you can pull out, remove a plug from and drain off any water in the filter before you remove the filter and get your floor wet, so take a look for this before you remove the filter and get soaked.

OR You will need to access the debris trap from the back of the machine. If there is no filter at the front, pull the machine out and you will see a roughly oval panel at the bottom of the rear of the machine. Unscrew the 3 or 4 screws and unclip. Directly below the drum, you will now see a rubber "Cup" like bulge in the black pipe, with a plastic tube connected to a plastic pipe. The cup is held in place by a large jubilee clip. Unscrew the clip, pull off the rubber boot to expose the debris trap (A conical plastic cage with a ping pong ball in it) Take out the ball and the plastic trap, clean out the debris and replace the trap and the ball (Note that the cage may have a slot in it that locates in the rubber boot, make sure it lines up, or it won't reassemble correctly). Now push the boot back onto the fitting at the bottom of the drum where it came from and tighten up the jubilee clip, making sure that it is fitted correctly (it too may have a small slot out of it that fits around a protrusion on the bottom of the housing).

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(this is pre-typed for problems with hot and cold supplies!)
If you have checked that the hot and cold water taps are turned on fully and the hoses are not kinked or squashed at the back, it is worth while checking both the hot and cold water inlet filters. Turn the taps off and remove both hoses at the washer end. Inside each inlet port there is normally a little filter which should just slide out. Clean if necessary and replace each one and the hoses. If after turning the taps back on there is no improvement, the problem is symptomatic of (in your case) a malfunctioning cold water control valve. Sorry but it needs a service call ;-0(
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck,
John C

check and see if u need a replacement belt if belts loose but fair condition u might need to replace a polly and need an expert.

It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question@@@@

Suspect the door latch has loosened enough to allow water spray to get into the latch cavity. Look for worn parts or loose adjustable components in the latch area (both door and case sides). Hope this helps!

Hi welcome to FixYa I am Kelly. Let's try a little water valve flushing routine to see if we can't get the washer to "Snap out of it."

Turn off both water supply hoses at the wall connection. Remove just one hose and place the wall end of the hose in a bucket. Select a warm wash cycle and let the water back-flush into the bucket. Only turn on the faucett that still has a wall connection. Use the handle of a hammer and GENTLY tap on the water valve hose connections. When the bucket is about 1/3rd full stop the fill cycle. Connect the hose you first removed. Turn off the wall connection for the first hose that was still connected to the wall. Remove that hose and place the 2nd hose wall end in the bucket. Again start a warm wash fill cycle again tapping the hose connections of the water valve with the handle of a hammer until the bucket is 2/3rds full. Reconnect the hose and turn on the water. Do a normal wash checking to see if the filling with water at the end of the cycle routine repeats. If it does NOT repeat good job. If it does repeat then unplug the unit and see if the water continues. If it does the water valve will have to be replaced. If it stops you will need to find out why you have power to the water valve at the end of the cycle.

The objective here is to losen the piece of debris that is stuck in the diaphram of the water valve. The procedure above works about 70 % of the time if it is a small piece of debris.

Thanks fo choosing FixYa.

Kelly

on the control panel there is a small picture of a lock by a button, that is the button you hold for 3 seconds to lock and unlock control