KitchenAid KAWS700L Top Load Washer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Lid switch needs to be replaced

do you hear the motor running?if so check the motor couplinghttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K1KHEogf3cthis connects the motor and transmission,the pump is on the front of the motor so it will drain,if the coupling is good check the bottom of trans,run your hand along the bottom of the trans,on the back side where the couplin is,any oil on hand you blew the trans.

either you have a bad motor coupling or you have a bad transmission.watch video to check coupling,if coupling looks good run your hand on the bottom of the transmision and this is on the backside of the coupling,if there's oil on your hand the trans. is blown.hope this helpshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Puq8jWMY9Iw&list=PLC38C8713C43C08E6

check your pump down at the bottom of the machine take the bottom plinth off the plastic that runs along the bottom of the machine once off on the right hand side you will see your pump you will need to undo the black screw and get your self a towel and a small and big bowl there will be a lot of water so when you have took the screw out start turning the pump cap very slowly and when you have filled the small bowl close it and keep repeating it till all water is gone then take it right out if its stuck then pull it clean it out and put back together don't for get to turn your machine off be for doing any thing ok hope i have helped if after you have done the pump and the machine still do the same thing then its programmer ok

Depends on how often you use and maintain it. I worked on a 1967 Lady Kenmore last week that is working just fine after 45 years.

you must have something stuck in your pump this will cause your problem the drives brake when the pump freezes up

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

If the water flows then the flow should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.

Check this link to replace the inlet valve:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1408/how-to-replace-the-inlet-valve-on-a-washer-dr.html

Finally after the wash the drain valve will be activated, the water is allowed to come in to rinse and then finally the dry spin with the drain valve/pump activated so as to drain off all the water from the clothes during the spin.

Make sure that a fault in any of the cycle will relate to the specified action, so check the command from the program module and then the executing device be it the valve or motor or pump.

Please check the link below:

http://www.repairclinic.com/Washing-Machine-Troubleshooting?red=Washing-Machine-Repair-Help

Sometimes the spline on the agitator has striped. If not its most likely the transmission. Does it do everythind else?

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

The hum is possibly coming from a jammed drain motor/pump. Please see the notes below:-

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hello Keith, If what your experiencing is after wash the tub is empty but you look a day later and their is water in the tub without using the washer,the water inlet valve on the back where the hoses connect to is not fully and seeping water slowly but steadily into tub and must be replaced. The part number for that valve is 285805 it could be purchased at your local appliance parts store or online at searspartsdirect.com repairclinic.com apdepot.com assuredparts.com appliancepartspros.com I hope will help you to fix your washer, Gene

It is a common fault that the drain fails to work in most machines in a period of time and is the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged. Now remove the drain hose clamps and remove the drain pump/valve, clean the drain pump/valve, use back flushing to clear off all dirt. Now test using power to see if this works and can be simulated. When refitting, the hose must be tightened properly. If the pump/valve does not work even with power then it must be replaced. If there is intermittent power to the drain valve/pump then the program controller unit is a suspect.

Finally the washer must be placed with a tilt- use a spirit level- so that all water will drain to the outlet port and thereby there is no residual water remaining.

Replacing the pump on a Bosch machine, please check this link for tips:http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1373/how-to-replace-the-pump-on-a-washing-machine-.html

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Unfortunately you do not mention at what point it stops so I am going to make a guess with this!

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(this is general advice for overall filling problems; for 'hot or cold' read 'cold'!)

If you have checked that the hot and cold water taps are turned on fully and the hoses are not kinked or squashed at the back, it is worth while checking both the hot and cold water inlet filters. Turn the taps off and remove both hoses at the washer end. Inside each inlet port there is normally a little filter which should just slide out. Clean if necessary and replace each one and the hoses. If after turning the taps back on there is no improvement, the problem is symptomatic of a malfunctioning hot or cold water control valve. Sorry but it needs a service call and a check that it isn't the control PCB ;-0(

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck,
John C

Sounds Like the agitator dogs are worn or broken. they are easy to change

1. Remove the Fabric Softener Dispenser (#1 on diagram)
   
2. Remove the Agitator Bolt. (#2 on diagram)
3. Replace the Agitator Repair Kit

There are 3 Lengths of agitator cams
If you go to http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=503228&diagram_id=28254127#d28254127

And Click on #20 on the Agitator, basket and tub Diagram
You can see pictures of the 3 lengths of cams order the one that matches your washer

Check your lid switch it may be the problem.Hope this helped.

Hi

If it heats fine and the timer is fine then check the door switch assembly, if the door switch is bad it won't start, also if the door switch tests fine then the issue is with the motor that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. If your washer doesn't drain or spin, you may read and learn what parts may cause this. First, you will want to check your water pump. You need to make sure it is working. Make sure you check the belt on the pump. Make sure it is not broken or loose. Also, make sure your pulley is not stuck in place. Sometimes, they will stick or barely turn at all. If this is the case, you will need to replace it. If the pump, pulley, and belt are working, make sure your motor is working. You should be able to hear it if it is. If it isn't, check your lid switch. The lid switch can cause the motor to not work. It may need adjusted. If not, go ahead and change it. A bad lid switch may cause the washer to not work at all. Now, if your pump is pumping and the washer still won't spin, you will want to check your belt and clutch. Once again, the belt may be broke or loose. Check to make sure your clutch is not worn also. This may be a case of a bad lid switch again as well. You could have a bad drive motor. This is what controls spinning, draining, and agitation. You could have a broken motor coupler. Over time, they will go bad and need replaced. It is possible that your transmission is slipping or damaged. And lastly, you could have a bad basket drive ir spin bearing. This is what allows the inner tub to move. If this is the case, you will probably hear loud sounds or loud banging.

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. If you have a washer that has a weak agitation or no agitation at all, here are some possible solutions. You need to check your belts. Most washers have one or two belts. Check your lid switch. If a lid switch is bad, it can cause the washer to not work properly. Sometimes, they will not work at all. Make sure you check your drive motor. The drive motor controls the spinning, draining, and agitation. Most washers have the reverse motor, meaning the shaft rotates in both directions, clockwise and counterclockwise. It is possible to lose one direction and not the other. Some washers have a clutch that controls the agitation. If it is bad or worn, it may prevent the agitator to work. Most of these washers come from General Electric. You could have a bad motor coupler. They are located on the side of the motor drive inside the washer. It is also possible that you have a bad transmission. Check the agitator itself. You could have a bad spline or two. The splin accompanies the shaft and allows the movement of the agitator. If you rule out all the parts above, you may have an electrical issue or an issue with the control board. It is very important to test each part and make sure it is getting power. If a part is not working and not getting any power, the power loss may be the reason that it doesn't work. You can test the current in the wires with a voltage meter. If it is over filling, you need to check your water level switch. As for the draining, you need to check the water pump and drain hoses.

Classic signs of a coupler gone bad.

While you are in there you might as well check the clutch also.

And the dog ears also. Under 75.00 for all three...new washer.

if you need procedures on any of these please post and I will get them for you.

but all are in video format on youtube.com

Keith