20 Most Recent Kenmore 55612 / 55614 / 5561 / 655619 Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 2 Questions & Answers


Yep, if the engineer had worked for me, I would have fired him/her. I have gone through 3 of them of the past 3-1/2 years until I got tired of it.

That said, it likely brakes at the same corner/corner. You will likely find a cavity inside each broken half. Using superglue and a small flat piece of metal (cut from a metal washer) sized/formed to fit inside cavities when the broken half are pieced together. Trial piecing the pieces together first before glueing them together.

If there are no cavities (solid), try creating one (you may be able to drill/carve out) in each broken half then follow the steps above.

Guaranty better than new and last a whale of a lot longr.

Good luck.

Kenmore 55612 /... | Answered on Apr 25, 2016


When you first hook water up to the refrigerator you have to fill a tank in the fridge. Open the water supply behind the ref. turn the control on the front of the ref to water and hold a glass under the spout as if you are filling a glass . You may have to wait 3-4 minutes forthe tank and lines to fill with water before you get any to come out into the glass. The water my be discolored at first so run a few glass full through before drinking . hope this helps

Bobalix

Kenmore 55612 /... | Answered on Oct 25, 2015


probably your Damper unit! In the fridge section is a hit and miss type vent using a motor to open and close via PCB temp sensor!

Kenmore 55612 /... | Answered on Oct 07, 2015


Fridge Dispenser Auger Drum Replacement - Whirlpool ...

? 4:56
www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fUJlQ1BQcs
Apr 12, 2013 - Uploaded by RepairClinic.com
The most common reason for replacing the dispenser auger drum is when ... Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Crosley, ...

Kenmore 55612 /... | Answered on Sep 23, 2015


Hello dooz127,
You have a coolant leak some where.

How old is your fridge?

huuum,happy to assist you!

Repair or replace?

When to pull the plug on your old refrigerator

It nearly always makes sense to undertake simple do-it-yourself repairs,
such as replacing a gasket on a refrigerator or a freezer.

Typically, you'll also find a troubleshooting section for more-serious problems
in the owner's manual.

Should you pay for a repair or buy a new model?
The answer depends mostly on the age of your refrigerator,
how much you bought it for,and the cost of the repair.

Follow these guidelines:

When a repair makes sense.

If your refrigerator is under warranty or less than four years old (three years for top-freezers),
paying for a repair makes sense.
Note that refrigerators under warranty might require service from a factory-authorized technician;
readers have found them on a par with independent repairers.

When a repair might be a wise choice.

If your refrigerator is out of warranty and is four to seven years old,
it might make sense to pay for a repair. Customers generally pay $100 to $200 for a repair.
But you might want to buy a new model even at this stage,
given that today's models are quieter and have added features.
Higher energy efficiency is another plus: Energy Star-qualified models made after April 28, 2008,
are 43 percent more efficient than conventional models built before 2001 and 56 percent
more efficient than those built before 1993.

When it pays to replace.

The repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new refrigerator.
Data also shows that it doesn't pay to fix a less-expensive top-freezer refrigerator
six or more years old or a bottom-freezer or side-by-side eight or more years old.

Thanks to better recycling programs, less than 10 percent
of a refrigerator you replace is likely to end up in a landfill.


Thanks for giving me the opportunity to help!
Please do not for get to give a rating before you sign off!
Thank You, HUUUM


Kenmore 55612 /... | Answered on May 04, 2015


Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!







Kenmore 55612 /... | Answered on Apr 09, 2015


FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these

Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.


Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.


Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ










Kenmore 55612 /... | Answered on Apr 09, 2015


Have you tried oiling the hinges? You could use cooking oil for this.

Kenmore 55612 /... | Answered on Mar 02, 2015


When you push the ice dispensing lever, you should be able to hear the micro-switch clicking. If no click, the switch is faulty. The auger motor which is activated by the lever could also be faulty. This is the motor that causes the auger in the ice bucket to rotate one way for crushed ice and the other way for cubes. The auger could also be jammed. Try switching between crushed and cubes to unjam the auger. Empty the ice bucket and start again.

Kenmore 55612 /... | Answered on Jan 21, 2015


Buy a condenser coil cleaning brush.

Kenmore 55612 /... | Answered on Nov 15, 2014


PLEASE DISREGUARD GUEST FIXYA SOLUTION,FREEZER PROBLEM PROCEDURE IF NOT DEGITAL,FIRST CHECK IF ICE ON BACK FREEZER WALL. STEPS-FIND DEFROST TIMER,BOTTOM FRONT ,BOTTOM BACK, INSIDE FRIG.ON CONSOLE,LISTEN TO SEE IF FAN IS RUNNING IF SO TURN THE DEFROST TIMER CLOCKWISE TILL YOU HEAR A CLICK SEE IF FAN TURNED OFF IF SO YOUR FREEZER IS IN DEFROST,FREEZER WILL COME OUT OF DEFROST IN 20-30 MINUTES IF IT DOES AND THE FAN COMES ON YOU HAVE ELIMINATED DEFROST TIMER&FAN,NEXT REMOVE BACK PANEL TO FREEZER IF THERE IS ICE FORMING REMOVE BOTH LEADS TO HEAT AND CHECK WITH VOLT METER ON OMES,IF YOU GET ANY READING THE HEATER IS GOOD,IF NO READING REPLACE HEATER AND CLIPON TEMINATOR,IF HEATER IS GOOD DEFROST COILS WITH HAIR DRYER TOP TO BOTTOM AND THIS WILL ALSO CLEAR THE DRAIN,IF EVERYTHING CHECK OUT GOOD DEFROST TIMER ,FAN ,HEATER, DRAIN, YOU NEED ONLY TO REPLACE THE LITTLE ROUND CLIP ON TERMANATOR,LET ME KNOW-MIKE

Kenmore 55612 /... | Answered on Oct 08, 2014


Would that not be covered by the manufacturer & also in your manual

Kenmore 55612 /... | Answered on Oct 08, 2014


replace your ref water valve

Kenmore 55612 /... | Answered on Aug 27, 2014


It is a typical defrost problem. I totally agreed with answer 3 - 4 - 5 !!! Good luck

Kenmore 55612 /... | Answered on Aug 15, 2014


DID YOUHOLD THE DISPENSER FOR A LONG TIME AND PURGE AIR ??? ARRE YOU GETTING ICE???

Kenmore 55612 /... | Answered on Jul 15, 2014

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