20 Most Recent Kenmore 18.3 cu. ft. Top Freezer Refrigerator w/Through-the-Door Water Dispenser - Page 7 Questions & Answers

That line , usually pops out when the fill tube is clogged with ice , due to a seeping water valve . If 2 screws hold this bracket , remove them and pull the fill tube out and defrost and reinstall . Use wd40 at an angle, to keep from getting into the line , to slip the line back into the bracket and replace the water valve ( the piece connected to the refrig where the wall water line connects to ) .

hi
i happen to have this exact model
i would listen for the fan in the back of the freezer
it sounds like your not getting the proper airflow accross the unit
check to make sure you can both hear the fan working in the back
and with the freezer door closed you can feel air from the freezer in the refer unit

It's located below the coils inside the freezer at the very bottom. The water comes from the coils. Take a turkey baster filled with water and push the water down the drain. This will unclog the drain.

depending alot on your model
this is usually 1 of two things
1 moisture that has condensed in side the fridge or freezer, suggesting that you may a door seal leak
or overflow from a defrost problem

checks: 1 inspect your deasl seal and that all of them are free of obstrcuttion and actually seal the door

2. look at the back wall of your freezer is their
an odd amount of frost

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

How to check stuff>
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. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.

Change the magnetic gasket from a good service center or you can change it yourself. Thanks.

90% of the time the oL is doing its job by switching on and off. If it starts to burn or go open circuit, its because the compressor is tight. Bottom line compressor needs replacement.

The electric parts that got wet will need to be dried out. Try putting a flood light etc. shining on the bottom for a few days to see if it will dry it out, then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start. Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
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Probably the plastic tube that came from the solenoid is broken somewhere between the solenoid and the dispenser(usually under the refrigerator).

Remove the food from the freezer . Remove the screws holding the rear freezer panel on , and remove the panel . Using a hairdryer , in the middle below the coils , start defrosting , until you can see the drain hole . Keep defrosting ( hot water helps also ) until water starts to go down the drain . Once water flows , use a small hose inserted into the drain , and blow thru it to remove any debris built up in the unseen drain line . For a permanent repair , get a piece of solid ALUMINUM wire , about 14-16 guage , about 9 " long , and insert into the drain as far as possible without force . Wrap the other end , about 1 1/2 to 2 turns , around the black bar ( defrost heater ) just above the drain hole . Cut off the excess . When the refrig goes into defrost , the heat from the defrost heater , will transfer to the aluminum wire , keeping the drain from freezing up again .

How to check everything
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If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

That usually means your drain in the freezer is clogged or frozen. You will have to take the evaporator cover off to see the drain hole at the bottom in the middle. If it is covered with ice remove the ice by letting it thaw for a couple of hours unplugged and door open. Should be able to remove excess by hand.

I believe you most likely have a defrost problem. Look inside rear of freezer and see if there is a lay of frost building up on rear wall or floor, depending on what model you have it could most likely be the defrost timer or adaptive defrost. I need your Sears number that looks like this foe example 231.56489 on the bottom of fresh food door frame behind door seal and near floor kick plate. Your next most likely reasons will be defrost heater or defrost thermostat. If you find frost I want you to unplug and begin manual defrost. Remove rear panel of freezer after unplugging and use a hair dryer. That will give you a little time to see the problem and get answers to repair them, Sea Breeze

if you have a bottom freezer, you need to defrost the unit the cool air from the freeezer is what cools the top part, but the channels are iced up
unplug the unit and let it thaw out overnight

If you lay it down for any reason , let it stand for 24 hours , before plugging it back in . This will give the oil , time to get back into the compressor . If you do not wait , and plug it back in , the compressor will try pumping the oil , without the refrigerant mixed , thru the system . This will cause restrictions , in several different places , which cannot be repaired . Restrictions will start in the dryer , then the accumulator . Basically the refrigerator will be useless afterwards . Warranty will not cover this .

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

Replace the start relay on the compressor.

Sounds like the water activator switch is sticking. It may help to clean the area where the switch is including the hinge. Remove the dispenser cover by gently prying starting at the bottom going round and round a little at a time to prevent from breaking it. When it's off the screws will be exposed to access the other components.
Since shutting the door stops it the above is most probable but the water inlet valve on the back where the water supply comes in could be sticking.