20 Most Recent Kenmore 53632 / 53634 Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

If you do not want to buy a new refrigerator, find a reliable repair person. Have them fix it and complain to the head of the company CEO or Vice President.

If there is no cooling at all , before we go further we must confirm the first step of confirming the compressor and gas pressure. So shut off the fridge and leave it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge. If there is no ice formation we have a big issue as the compressor and gas must be checked out. If compressor is running check the pressure, get help to test gas pressure. If not you will need to fill up ,If gas pressure is good the possibility of the compressor being inefficient is high. In such a case you must take consensus to estimate and decide, if RPM of motor is low check capacitor.However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off. If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.

The ventilation fan that circulates the COLD air from the evaporator coils could get clogged with frost and so could be jammed. Also the wires to the fan can be worn out due to the frost. If so check if the defrost timer works to switch the heater to remove the frost. Also the check if the compressor is shut down by the timer /thermostat . If the heaters are not working, check continuity of the heaters.So attempt to test using a multi-meter / clamp tester from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Please check this link for tips to work.

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/fridges-and-freezers/a/2

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

ice mker may have not been the problem . there are heaters in the back and they may have been causing the smell and if they overheated due to a failed defrost therm. ck for ice build up in back of freezer . this would also cause ice build and a blocked evap coil .. and thus no cold to the fresh food . mm

no it's probably the o-ring seal at the housing. i would try taking it out inspecting the seal and replace if needed. if not i would put it back on and make sure the housing is on tight and it should seal off.

could have a bad water valve,next time send model number.on some of the ice makers you can pop off the white cover and on the right hand side you'll see to holes close together,you can jump out the ice maker to see if the water valve is sending up enough water to fill the ice maker,stick the end of the wire in each hole,you'll see the middle part start turning,when the theeth of the ice maker are at 9 oclock pull the wire out and watch to see the ice maker fill.if it doesn't fill and you hear the water valve turn on the valve is bad and has to be changed out.let me know how you make out

If you are not hearing the compressor cycle on and off in intervals and there is no air flow present inside the unit, this will confirm that there has been a severe malfunction within the units assembly. You will need to check the following areas for faults:

1. Compressor- Make sure this unit is functioning. if it is not cycling as designed, this will be the culprit. If it is cycling but very hot to the touch when operating, check the condenser coils for debris and clean them if necessary.
2. Compressor start relay - This is the main on/off switch that is attached to the side of the compressor. This relay, when energized by the main control board, starts the compressor. if the relay has failed, it will not start the compressor, thus, rendering the unit inoperable. Pull the relay off and shack it. If it rattles, replace it.
3. Evaporator fan - This is a very important part of the evaporator core. This is the principal air mover of the unit. If this fan fails, the inside freezer and refrigerator will not cool, at all. You will need to remove all the freezer shelves and content to access this unit. It is concealed behind a panel inside the back section of the freezer compartment. Once the concealment panel is removed, you will expose the core and fan. the fan can be tested with a multimeter for proper continuity. You can also jump the terminals with a jumper wire to see if it is still in working order. An external power source will be needed for this test. if the fan fails the test, replace the fan motor.
4. Condenser fan - This is also a very important fan. This fan is mounted near the condenser coils and can fail. You can test it in the same manner as the evaporator fan. replace the condenser fan if it proves to be damaged. This fan must spin at a fast rate when the compressor is activated. If it fails, it will allow massive heat to build up in the coils and compressor unit, thus damaging the internals of the compressor.
5. Main PCB(Printed Circuit Board)- This is basically your main power controller. This board routes power to all the fans and compressor unit located in the assembly. it also routes power to the lights and ice maker/dispenser, as well. This will be the most expensive repair, in this case. If all the above areas prove to be functional, the main PCB will be the culprit. You can easily locate this board. It is usually mounted on a bracket, near the compressor platform, or behind a concealment panel on the rear of the unit. Once you have gained access, visibly, inspect the board for burn markings at the relay mounts and jumpers. check the entire circuit board for discolorations like brown marks or black burn marks at the plug-in connectors. If this refrigerator is totally dead, this will be the cause.
6. Monitoring thermostats - These are located in each compartment. Replace each thermostat if all above checks out ok.

You will find the culprit in one or all of the areas stated above.

no thats a good sign but unplug it,you'll find the model number on the right hand side near the top on the fridge side,get a start device no capacitor and that should take care of your problem.let it cool down a little so you can work on it,next time send the model number,i could have looked up your machine and gave you the part number,you can read out the compressor with a meter but most likely it will be the start device.my kenmore is 8 years and i just had to change my device,i went shopping and spent 600.00 dollars on food on a saturday,two days later i opened my bedroom door and there was a stink like something burnt,i've changed out a few devices so i know that smell,i was lucky i had the part in my van i didn't even loose my ice cream,ha ha.i hope you have the same luck,if i can help you with anything else let me know good luck

Hi,
There are a few reasons why the refrigerator part will not cool...here are a couple of tips that will help you to figure out why the refrigerantor is not cooling...

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3662945-refrigerator_not_cooling_or_fridge_not

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3771673-defrost_refrigerator_defrost_timer

heatman101

Hi,
You can start with replacing the start capacitor and relay to see if the compressor will run again, but you have about a 50 -50 chance that the compressor has gone bad and will need to be replaced....


http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor

heatman101

We had a similar problem - it was the compressor start device. Ordered a new one from repairclinic.com, and it works great now. The old start device rattled when we shook it. We opened it up and found lots of burnt little bits. Check to see if your compressor kicks on & off a lot. Ours would run only about 10-15 seconds, then go off for a minute or two - then back on for a few seconds. If that is happening, it could be the start device. Hope this helps.

change your water filter and clean all the lines for water,you must have an algae,mold buildup in there somewhere,and possibly water got into insulation and has startes to mold

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Check the power conection to the ice maker. If that's ok, then I would think the solenoid that controls the water flow has gone bad. Unfortunately, you will likely have to replace the whole ice maker, I don't think they are reparable.