Aeris Atmos Lx BC - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

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A scuba tank is design to hold a certain volume of air, at a particular at a particular temperature. In the US, the standard tank is an aluminum 80 CF tank. At room temperature and 3,000 psi, the tank holds 72 CF of air (yeah, I know they round up calling it 80 CF tank). When you are filling the tank, the air and tank will become warm/hot. If you check the pressure guage while the tank is warm, it will give you a reading of X. Once the tank cools, it will give you a reading that is less than X. They put the tanks in the water in the hopes of keeping the temperature do, and filling the tanks closer to the design pressure and temperature. Some examples that you can see... In Mexico, many of the tanks will be sitting in the sun while on the boat. The tank may have a reading of 3,200 psi. Once you jump in the water, and the tank cools down, the new reading may be 2,800 psi without ever breathing any of the air. I have been ice diving, the tank was acutally colder than the water. Since the water temperature was warmer than the tank, me pressure reading was slightly higher.

There are four main variables affecting this: 1. The (total) internal volume of the tank(s) 2. The pressure to which that tank has been filled 3. The ambient pressure at depth 4. The rate at which the diver uses the air out of that tank for their breathing and buoyancy control (including drysuit inflation). The first three are simply a matter of physics and will be the same for everyone under the same circumstances. The major variation comes from the last one, which is usually a function of the diver's experience/ competence (not the same thing!). One who is less so will go through air quicker than one who is more so. So the best answer for your question is "It depends..."! However, many resorts and guides set a maximum dive time of one hour, so they know when to expect a diver back on the boat (or, when they have to call out the Coastguard!). This might be the source of your friend's assertion. FYI: The current world record for breathing off a single tank of air while sitting at the bottom of a swimming pool is a little bit short of 8 hours. The divers in question were using 12-litre cylinders charged to 200B and breathing verrrry slowly! (approximately 12 x 200 litres / 460 minutes = 5.22 l/min)

Any preesurised gas container should be visually inspected annually (at least) and pressure tested every 5 years, 3 years or annually according to local law. If you are going to have it tested, screw the valve in loosely as they will need to examine the threads on it in order to pass the tank and valve as a unit. BUT ALL THAT ASIDE, the answer to your original question is: Replace the tank neck O-ring, very lightly lube the threads of the valve with a SCUBA silicon grease, wind the valve in to finger tight (if you have a torque wrench you could find out setting) if no torque wrench, nip the valve tight with a light tap from a rubber mallet on a 12" wrench (I know it is a bit approximate, but the O-ring makes the seal, not the tightness)

"There is only one bit of advice you need when you own your own tanks: bring them to a professional for filling and regular inspection. Tanks are required to be visually inspected once a year, which involves removing the valve and looking inside for signs of corrosion or damage. If the tank is deemed safe, an Evidence of Inspection (EOI) sticker is applied to the tank showing the date of inspection. A hydrostatic test is required every 5 years, which determines the tank's ability to contain pressurized gas. A certified hydro test facility will stamp the shoulder of the tank below the valve with the date of pass. This inspection makes it easy for you to know if your rented tank has been properly maintained and inspected. If the hydro test stamp is more than 5 years old or the EOI sticker is more than a year old, don't accept the tank. Corrosion is the major culprit in tank degradation. Scuba tanks are filled with very dry air, to prevent moisture from rusting the interior of the tank. That is why certified divers learn never to leave a tank empty. Always leave at least 100psi of pressure in the tank at the end of your dive, so no moisture can get in when valves are opened."

"The scuba tank is one of the most important pieces of dive equipment. It must be looked after. A well-maintained tank could give 20 or 30 years service. A neglected tank can fail with the force of a hand grenade. It pays to care for a scuba tank, not only for economy, but also for safety and diving enjoyment. The following ten tips can help ensure a scuba diving tank will provide many years of faithful diving service. 1) Never completely empty a scuba tank. Always leave at least 1000 kPa to ensure moisture doesn’t enter. 2) Always rinse the scuba tank and valve in fresh water after use. 3) If the scuba tank is to be stored for a few months, drain the air down to around 1000 kPa. This is to decrease the amount of oxygen that can cause corrosion. 4) A scuba tank should be stored standing up out of direct sunlight. 5) A scuba tank should be carried with care and attention. They shouldn’t be carried on the shoulder as a fall can lead to the valve getting smashed off and the tank taking off like a rocket. 6) A scuba tank should be regularly tested in accordance with statutory regulations. 7) A scuba tank should not be left in a closed car in the heat of the day. It can heat up and explode or the burst disk can rupture; both scenarios leading to damage to the car. When in the car the tank should be carried with the valve towards the back. If the car brakes suddenly the tank valve won’t be damaged as the tank moves forward with its momentum. 8) The scuba tank valve should not be turned off too tightly. It only has to be just nipped closed enough to stop the air flow. 9) A scuba tank should be filled with clean, dry air. Any discolouration around the air outlet or bad odour should be treated with suspicion. If there are any doubts that a tank has been filled with bad air, it should not be used for scuba diving and should be checked immediately. A bad fill can lead to damage to the tank, as well as pose a threat to a diver. 10) If painting a tank, ensure no heat curing paints or strippers are used as these could affect the strength of the tank."

ask them maker for that or google all week, get lucky?

Make and model may help you get an answer.

Try to spray the commercial available mist to lower surface tension in order to avoid build-up of condensed water

it depends on the quality of the mask and it depends on how you stored it (if you leaved it at sunlight, if you washed it thoroughly after using it in the sea...) i have a mid quality mask Mares mask, i have been using about 20 times for snorkeling, then i used it to take diving certifications in pool, then i used it for about other 20 dives in the sea... i always stored it in a dark bag (the mask is now about 8 years old) you can check if you mask is still in good shape, and the silicone has not worn out, in this simple way: just put the mask on your face without straps.. remove all the air inside the mask by inhaling with your nose.. then look at your feet (keep inhaling): if the mask remains on your face you can keep using it

You need to consult with a factory technician. Your life depends on these devices. I am certified in USD Survivair and no one can set those after a rebuild kit without special tools and measuring devices.

They have eight legs and are Cephalopods. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCYQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FCephalopod&ei=EB0FVaWtI8zLsAT30IE4&usg=AFQjCNETlGDK7Bi6L4BhBnDiJq2tqVBCQw&bvm=bv.88198703,d.cWc

Yes...the octopus does exist.

Please see Page 28 of the manual http://ns.suunto.com/Manuals/Companion/Usermanual/Companion_usermanual_EN.pdf

I noticed another FixYa guru here answered a question on another strand that applies to yours: Also, please note this person on FB claims to be the Lemax fix-all guru. You can ask them more specific questions:http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:0YBPB3sM28kJ:https://www.facebook.com/eHobbyTools%3Ffilter%3D2+&cd=10&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us The Knex website has building help for this problem. There answer is as follows: Make sure all rods and connectors are fully hooked together, especially the blue and gray connectors. Even one peice not fully hooked together can twist the model just enough to jam the gears. (You may have it hooked together correctly prior to jam problems so it is good to check since I found a loose on holding the motor.) The chain links need to all be attached in the same direction, and fully hooked. The chain also needs to be on the tower with the hooks facing down and in as the chain runs on the outside of the tower. (Chain should be outside on the front and inside in the back with the 5 yellow bar side in the front.) Check that all gears are positioned correctly according to the instructions and the teeth facing the correct way. If you are still unable to get the seat to drop, you may remove the top yellow cross rod that the chain runs over - the model will also work with this piece removed. I did all of these steps with my son and his still had trouble dropping all the time. It still seems light so the seat didn't have enough weight to drop with gravity during the non-moving cycle of the orange half gear. We decided to tape on 2 marble passengers to see if that helped. It did!!! When searching for other solutions, I noticed a UTube video that added people also so this seems to be a common solution. Try it or some other light weight added and see if it solves your problem.

Hello, There is one thing on some computers that will restart it like the day you bought it, see if there is a very small symbol that looks like a shooting star taking off from the ground and making a U turn and back down that\'s the best I can do for what it looks like, it will be only about 1/8 th in. tall and 1/16 th in. wide very small, it should be close to the power on button on your comp. this is a Rescue System to start all over from day one, I have a Lenovo G570 Laptop and it has one of these, thank god as my comp. got a very sick and would not even let Windows start up I pushed this button and I was able to clear all the stuff that was stopping it from opening, if your lucy you will have something like this on yours, Look it over real close to find this symbol, sorry I don\'t have a pic. for you, you could also check if there is a Tech. help line for your brand of comp. Well I hope this may help in some way, and get you back on line.

What I think will solve your problem is dynamite????

Dave,
Good luck with that...... A MUCH more reliable way to go is a small pony bottle, say a 13cf with an inexpensive reg and a pressure gauge /plug or better yet a regular SPG.. That way you have a real reg with a whole lot more air with which you can more comfortably share air or hopefully save yourself or do a bit of a safety stop on the way up.

Dive computers display a large variety of information relevant to the diver's needs. Such information includes: Current depth, elapsed dive time, and how much time remaining the diver has before having to make decompression stops.

The main manufacturers of dive computers are: Oceanic, Aeris, Suunto, Mares, Sherwood, and Tusa.