Dewalt 12" Beveling Sliding Compound Miter Saw Dw718 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I'm wondering what the noise is like. Is the noise only while you are cutting / under load? Is the blade smoking? What type of wood are you cutting?

problem in burnt field windings of the motor or problem start /run capacitor

drive gears pin in shaft is broken open the box and repair

look for a thermal fuse grab an ohmmeter it works best follow the circuit from plug into the switch area. unplugged for ur safety

The people from Lowes were right. There are two types of motor designs: Induction motors and brush-type motors. All electric motors that have brushes make sparks where the brushes contact the rotating commutator. They also run less efficiently but they are a bit smaller than induction motors for equal power output. Brushed motors can also deliver greater power at initial startup. Because the sparks in brushed motors create heat, the housing around the motors typically have ventilation slots for air to go through to keep the commutator cool. This means you are likely to see the sparks if you look in the right place. Since it's more difficult to get an induction motor turning, they typically have a "start capacitor" mounted on the side of the motor to give an extra kick to get the stator turning. While induction motors use less power when running, the amperage they use at start-up is typically double the running amperage.

Could you be more specific? What kind of problem is the saw having?

Go to 2heplu.com you can download operator manuals and parts lists for Dewalt, Black & decker and Stanley power tools.

There is probably a gear cracked or partially broken causing the teeth to be out of mesh and the noise is when the gears jump back in to mesh until the faulty gear comes around again.. If it is a dewalt there are spares available.

This saw has locking indexing to set bevels for 52 degree crown molding the other common crown angle is 45 degrees, the bevel setting needs to be other than where the locking indexs are for the 52 degree crown. Problem is that the bevel lock does not securely hold at the bevel angle required. Is their an adjustment to get this lock to hold tighter.

check for broken return spring or bent guard hitting the sides of the machine.

I wonder if you have been cleaning it with a cleaner that contains an alkaline solution as this reacts with aluminium and turns the bright bits black

delta truck tool box model# 904000

either cover is distorted and catches or there is build up of saw cuttings/dust preventing a smooth operation,or the assist spring is broken

15 amps x 120 volts = 1,800 watts. is what the book says. But although your saw will pull almost the full 15 amps on start up it drops drastically once running.

I assume you can find the adjusting screws, but here's how to measure if you have it dead-on: First, confirm repeatability as follows----. Move the saw as if you were going to cut at miter, then move it back to zero. Now cut off the end of a 6 inch (or so) board. Then move the saw again, and move it back to zero. Cut off about 3/4 inch of the same board (make sure you haven't turned the board over). The 3/4 inch piece you have cut off might not be square, but the two cut edges of the 3/4 inch piece should be exactly parallel to each other. Find a way to confirm that. A micrometer or good calipers make this easy, but you may have to improvise - the key is that your check for parallel needs to be more precise than measuring it with eyeballs and a tape measure. Repeat this a couple of times. You may find that you have to be careful about resetting the saw each time so that you can get repeatability. OK, now that you have a repeatable setting turn the board over and take another cut. Any deviation from 0 (or 90) will be doubled and the two cuts will not be parallel. Make your adjustments to the saw until you get two parallel cuts when you flip the board over. And one more thing! This method ASSUMES that the board you are cutting has parallel edges. If you have calipers this is easy to confirm.

Hi there
You do not need to remove the blade gaurd to change the blade. You only need to raise it enough to acces the blade screw. Unplug the saw. Raise the blade arm. Raise the guard to it's upper position. On the left side of the blade, just forward and up slightly from the blade screw is a screw for the guard bracket. Loosen, but do not remove this screw. Once it's loosened the guard can be raised farther exposing the blade screw.
pg 6 of the manual illustrates this process, here's a link so you can see the parts I am discribing,
http://servicenet.dewalt.com/Products/Detail?isId=true&productNumber=DW716&selectedType=12803#
click the pdf icon next to instruction manual, then open the file.
As for the blade wrench, this should have come with the saw, there is a slot in the base for storing the wrench, on the back left side, it slides in and out for safe keeping. If you have misplaced the wrench the DEWALT part number 608563-1

grease in the bearings have some moister in them ....might try an electrionic cleaner to dry up some of it

pop out the old bearing put in the new

I don't know if this will help you much but I've got a DeWalt 14 inch chop saw and a 10 inch miter saw and they both have a small lever on the right hand side of frame just behind blade If you depress this lever and slowly rotate blade until it drops into place this locks the blade for changing. Hope this helps you. Thanks.

Make sure the blade is 90 deg vertical to the saw table. Make sure the indicator is set approprately. Raise the blade just enough to clear the table/base. Place a swanson speed square against the fence and blade. Make sure the indicator is at 90 degrees. Here you might want to tilt the square and check that the complete blade is flush against the sqaure as high up as possible. Lay the square back flat on the table and pull the blade toward you as much as possible. The teeth on the blade should ride against the square extented completely out.

Now set the square against the fence with the 45 degree angle coming away from the table and set the blade on the 45 deg mark on the insicator scale.
The blade should touch the square all the way out fully extented.

Or just experiment with some scrap and check