20 Most Recent Goodman CLQ36AR49 Air Conditioner - Page 2 Questions & Answers

24 volts is what you would expect on secondary

clean coil and pan.

either the inside coil is dirty or system is overcharged.

i would suspect the valve on suction side not open. if the other system failed on a burn out you could have a blocked dryer or orfice at coil.

you have to have 240 volts for power. 24 volts to operate cool and heat. thermostat feeds color code white to heat yellow to cool green to fan. think of the thermostat as a light switch. transformer in system feeds common to different controls & usually red to thermostat which is then switched to what it is set for.

check stat calibration. see if you can measure temperture at stat. the thermostat cover temperture reading is not that accurate.

its either a thermostat wire shorting or the coil in outsde contactor going out.

Have your ac man come and clean your coil on the unit.The smell may be trapped there.

The most common reasons for water leaking from the unit are:
1- Condensate drain line clogged, needs cleared.
2- System is freezing up, causing excessive water to overflow, check filter, fan motor, thermostat, and batteries.
If there is ice on the lines on the indoor or outdoor unit, the system is frozen. If it's a charging issue, make sure system is thawed completely before calling anyone. They will not be able to do anything until system is thawed out and will cause you to wait longer.

You need to check to see if you have 24 volt signal from thermostat to your reversing valve. To go into cooling mode the reversing valve needs to be energized. Orange is normal color of the reversing valve power supply. On your unit will be a reversing valve which looks like a pipe with 3 pipes attached to one side and 1 pipe attached to the other side. On the side of the the reversing valve will be a coil with a 2 wire connection. This coil needs 24 volts applied to shift unit into cooling mode. In your thermostat wire bundle where it is connected, check for voltage between common and the orange wire. If it does not have 24 volts with the thermostat in cooling mode, you have a break in the line normally a connection on the orange junction inside your air handler or your thermostat orange wire is loose. Keep checking for 24 volts available until you find the source of the loss. If you have 24 volts at the reversing valve, you can check to see if the valve is working by unplugging the 2wire connection on the side of the valve, if it clicks its powered if not and 24 volts available then the coil needs replaced. Any more than this you will need a professional tech to troubleshoot and fix. Hope this helps.

When ever you hear a buzzing like you are hearing means one thing one of the fuses on the outside disconnect box is bad. Only getting 1/2 the power. Find the bad fuse and get the same size and will be good to go. ken

The problem is in the thermostat wiring. Y1 on an air conditioner, brings on the cooling. On a heat pump, it brings on the compressor, which generally fails to heat mode. The O wire operates the reversing valve, which brings on cooling. If these wires are reversed, or not hooked up, you will not get cooling.

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Here is a tip about troubleshooting your air conditioner...
There are many things that can cause your air conditioner not to cool…

Air Conditioner Trouble - Review the Possibilities

heatman101

you need to replace your condensing fan motor. the noise you are hearing is the compressor working against a lot of pressure because the heat is building up in you condensing unit. Prolonged operation without an operating condensing fan motor will cause your compressor to burn up, and then you will have the cost of a compressor changeout to the cost of a condensing fan motor.

http://www.dnmech.com/lit/good_ckj_ss213s.pdf This has CKJ48-1a. That may work.

Take a look on amazon for same parts, and compare the prices: Amazon com goodman air conditioner parts. I hope this was helpful. Cheers

I ran upon this a few years agoafter 20+ years in the industry it is actually called "DIRTY SOCK". In the winter the drain pan and trap dry out and all the junk left behind when the summer rolls around mix with the condensateand cause the odor. "Home owner fix" pour a cup of bleach down the drain and in the pan let sit for about an hour then pour a gallon of hot water, that usually takes care of it.

It could be your compressor trying to start but not being able to do so. It shouldnt happen that often but in cold temp the overload protector may cycle that quickly. I reccomemnd to have it checked to salvage the expensive compressor.

Tell them you want a whole new outside system or a new compressor . Around here, the compressor change out should be around 5--$800.00 and the unit change out , around $400.00! OKLAHOMA.

You need to to determine the superheat and subcooling to check for the proper operation of your system when the compressor is running. I ran into a case just yesterday, the breaker kept tripping. Unit had the same readings as yours. This one had a subcooling of >25 degrees and 0 degrees superheat indicating unit was overcharged. I took an extra 8 pounds of r22 out of the system. During the investigation I also determined the filter/drier was blocking the refrigerant flow causing the technician to overcharge the unit. To check filter/drier performance all you need to do is measure the upstream and downstream temperature. The difference should be less than 2 degrees. This one was 7 degrees indicating it was metering flow. If your compressor stops operating before determining superheat and subcooling, you can get a professional tech to recover and weigh out the refrigerant in your system. You can look on the nameplate data on the side of the outside unit and see the ounces of refrigerant it is charged. If the compressor is operable go ahead and adjust charge by recovering the excess refrigerant into a recovery container for that refrigerant. Normal superheat and subcooling is normally around 10 - 15 degrees. Hope this helps