20 Most Recent Goodman CLQ36AR49 Air Conditioner - Page 4 Questions & Answers

voltage regulater in the altanator

Change the filter located in the air handler

Ohm the motor, if it's ok then replace the run capacitor with one of the same micro farad value. Make sure you short the capacitor terminals with an insulated tool before removing the wires. It still holds a charge even when deenergize

is this 3 phase? 3 phase is diffrent from single phase

Does it make the noise all of the time or just periodically? Does the outdoor fan run when it is making the noise. If the fan isn't running and the compressor is noisy at that time likely it is in defrost mode which is normal.

Go to emergency heat and call for service company http://shop.thefurnaceoutlet.com/main.sc to check it out.

Hmm... so is the heat running at the same time as the air conditioning or did you mean to say heat is not working? I could probably help you but I need more specific wording of your problem. However if you just posted to say that your heat is working, then I say congrats cause its cold out there tonight. j/k.Try to describe what happens when you turn on the thermostat, like does the blower come on and it just blows cold air or nothing happens at all or thermostat doesnt work ect. ect.I'll be on for a little bit tonight if not I will check back for you in the morning. :)

You either have a bad defrost board or bad temp sensor. Need to have a qualified technician check it. To manually defrost set your unit to cool for a few minutes.

the cause of your indoor fan running all the time or for long time after your heat pump has stopped heating is the fan delay relay. It has welded its internal contacts together. If you take off the side below the control panel, the fan delay relay is normally mounted on the header where the fan discharges. Good news, the fan delay relay are fairly inexpensive and easily to change. As far as the condensing fan motor not running at full speed, when it was changed, did the technician install the correct fan motor. Most condensing fan motors are either 875 rpm or 1175 rpm. They are exactly the same size and if the technician did not look closely he could have installed the wrong rpm motor. There is another possibility, he may have used the wrong capacitor. I have seen the condensing fan actually operate backwards at a lower than normal rpm. The fan if properly installed will discharge air upwards.

Check and make sure that the compressor is running and not just the fan on top. Most likely the compressor is not running and you have a bad capacitor.

What have you done so far.

If the indoor coil is icing up, you are either low on freon, or the indoor coil is very dirty. This will cause it to ice even though you have replaced the filter. See if the suction line/large copper line has ice on it on the outdoor unit. If so, its low on charge or the indoor coil has plugged up and not getting enough air flow across it. Please keep me posted.
Shastalaker7

Hi, the new motor takes its own capacitor to run it. This is what the 2- brown wires are for, one will have a white stripe. You will need to but a seperate run capacitor for this motor, a 5 uf, 7.5, or what ever it calls for. they should have told you when you bought the motor. It will have to spade connectors on it where the brown wires connect alone. Use the dual capacitor if that is what you have for the other 220 volt wires.Black and purple will be your 2 hot wires.You can connect either one to the old capacitor on the fan terminal and the other to the load side of the contactor, so when the contactor closes it will energize the motor.Or, take both the black and the purple wires and to the load side ( outlet side ) of the contactor, connect one to one side and the other to the other side. The line side is where your 2 hot wires that connect to the contactor from the incoming wires from the electrical box, you want to be on the other end. I would connect the black to the contactor load side and purple to the old capacitor as long as the old wiring is still on it as it has to be fed by a hot wire from the contactor. Each wire, blk, and purple has to have 120 volts to each one and you can get this a couple of ways. The contactor has several terminals that are not used and if you wire them on the outlet side, they will only be energized when the contactor is closed on a call from the stat, very easy to do. You will have to get a coulple of crimp on connectors to put on the ends of the wires, but the brown ones should already have them for this capacitor. Do not try to put the brown wires on the old run capacitor as you will burn out the new motor! Go get the small run cap for these 2 wires for about $10. I know that you can do this wiring change just remember the blk is hot 120, and purple is hot 120, = 240.volts. If you have removed all of the wires from the old capacitor, then use the contactor to connect to. The compressor wires must stay on the old run cap on the hermetic side and this old cap. must be fed by a hot wire from the contactor to the common terminal, that is marked with a C..If you look at the new motor diagram, it will show you also. Please dont forget to rate me as I know you will be kind, and I will check in on you to see how you are doing. Get this capacitor and it will run. This is a must!! Please keep me posted.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor

To check the start capacitor, you will need a multi meter with a Mfd reading capability. The micro farads are listed on the capacitor and the reading should be within 5 mfds of what is needed. To check it, you need to pull the wires from the (Herm.) terminal and place your leads on the bare terminals. If your mfd reading is good, then the next step is to check the compressor. First, if your compressor has ran low/high on refrigerant, it can over-heat and trip the internal overload switch and will not operate until it is back at normal temperatures. You can check continuity through the compressor wires with a meter, you should have continuity through all 3 wires, if not, the internal switch is tripped or your motor windings have broke inside. Another easy but not always "sure" way to check this is to feel your compressor. If it feels extremely hot, it's more than likely the internal overload switch. You can check for a shorted compressor by checking continuity through the compressor wires and a good ground on the unit, usually the best place is one of the copper lines. This would usually blow a fuse or trip a breaker though and the fan wouldn't work. Hope this points you in the right direction and sorry for the "long" reply, but these things are rarely ever simple. You can buy a new capacitor at your local A/C supply store for a lot cheaper than getting charged to fix it, just be sure all your power is disconnected before you do anything, it bites hard! Good luck!