20 Most Recent Kenmore HE4t 3.8 Cu. Ft. King Size Capacity Plus Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

Try drying the board with a hair dryer but not so hot to destroy the electronics. Place an ample amount of distance between the board and the electronics. Set aside for an hour, then try the machine.

The error code F11 is actually a motor control unit (MCU) error and it has been found in many cases that its failure can interfere with the operation of other parts such as the central control unit (CCU) making it appear that the machine doesn't work at all. Unplug the machine for at least half an hour to eliminate the possibility of an electronic glitch. If the problem persists, verify this condition by disconnecting the MCU and starting the machine. The MCU has indeed failed if the machine seems to work fine except for motor powered functions such as spin and agitate. With the MCU disconnected, you can set the cycle selector to Drain/Spin then select No Spin in the Spin Speed selector. The MCU needs to be replaced if the drain pump works fine. The link below contains the detailed instructions in addressing drain problems. Indicate the exact model number of the machine should you need further help.

Error Code F02/F21 on Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite Front Load Washers

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The Kenmore HE4T washer does not have a reversible door. The matching dryer would have a reversible door.

Some newer washers do have a reversible door but it is still a very small number of washer that allow you to reverse the door.

You can not reverse the door on an HE4T washer.

F14 for Kenmore (Whirlpool) machines means EEPROM Error.

The Central Control Unit (CCU) receives it's data from an EEPROM on board the CCU, if there is an error reading this data, it will cause this error.

A power glitch may cause this error. Try unplugging the Unit for two minutes to see if that fixes the error. Check CCU. So its likely you'll need a new CCU board.

Check your owners manual, some models have up to a 5 year parts warranty on that CCU.

It is recommended by the manufacturer that you leave the washer door open on all front loaders when not in use or the washer can develop odors, or begin to mold and mildew. Leaving the door open allows the tub air out. Because this is the lowest point of the drain cycle, gravity will always cause residual water to reside in the drain pump and drain lines. The water will NOT evaporate, but it will keep it from becoming sour. The following link explains what some of the common causes of odors in a front loader are and how to prevent them:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608512-getting_rid_front_loader_mildew_odor

Newer model Kenmore Elite, Whirlpool Duet and Maytag Epic have a "Cleaning Cycle" button on the front panel. The owner's manual will explain how to use this feature.

If you do not have a cleaning cycle, use the hottest setting you have about once a month with a small amount of bleach to keep the spin basket and wash tub sanitized. I recommend the "Whitest Whites" cycle set on the "Light". This cycle is only 48 minutes.

Read through the link provided and make sure you periodicallt check the drain pump for debris that can cause odors and make sure you are using the correct detergent. If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

f-11 door lock error

you're using to much detergent,the machine can't pump out suds,it will start to fill and drain to get the soap out.take out the clothes,run it and after a bit hit the drain spin and see if it stops.using to much detergent is the number one killer of front load washers,the extra detergent eats at the spider gear and when this happens it's time for a new washer,you'll know when it breaks,when it goes into the spin cycle it will bang all around loudly,you should only be putting in 1/4 of a cup of H.E. detergent

FH error indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water. Since you can see it filling, the error indicates low flow. A flow meter
in the unit detects if 10.5 gallons fills the tub within 8 minutes; yours must not be. This will turn off the inlet valves and the error code will be displayed. Check the following:

- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. This occurs when there is no air gap for the drain line at the standpipe. The standpipe is the drain pipe at the wall where the washer drain line is placed. With no air gap, a vacuum is created, and water will begin to drain from the wash tub prematurely. To prevent this from occurring, follow this advice:

•The standpipe should be 2 inches in diameter to allow a sufficient air gap between the top of the standpipe and the drain hose.
•The standpipe should be a minimum of 34" from the floor, and should not exceed 72 inches in height.
•DO NOT seal the top of the standpipe. Many consumers seal the standpipe in the belief that this will prevent overflows, or get rid of drain odors. This often creates more problems than solutions.
•DO NOT place the drain hose too far down into the pipe. Water stays in the drain trap area of the standpipe. If the end of the drain hose rests in this area, no air gap is created, and this can also cause siphoning. 4 to 6 inches is sufficient.
•The drain hose length must not exceed 10 feet in length. Excessive drain hose length can cause drain problems and back wash.
- Verify Drain Pump operation. Unplug the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. Open the pump access and remove, once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there's nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.


- Verify Flow meter operation and that the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly. Remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached. There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required in determining if the components are good or bad.


"F/H" indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water.

If you have NO water coming into the wash tub after 30 seconds the error code is displayed. Check the following:

- Inlet water valve may be clogged. Clean inlet screens if necessary.
- Make sure water taps are on.
- Check inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.

If you HAVE water filling the wash tub, and after 8 minutes, 10.5 gallons of water has been detected by the flowmeter, but there has not been a detected a Pressure Switch trip, the inlet valves are turned off and the error code is displayed. Check the following:

- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. Click the following link for instructions: http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning
- Verify Drain Pump operation.
- Verify Flowmeter operation.
- Verify the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly.

To access the Drain Pump - UNPLUG the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Propping the front feet of the washer up can make access much easier. I use a couple small blocks of wood. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. If not, click on the following link to check the pump for obstructions:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385845-checking_drain_pump_in_whirlpool_duet

To access the Flowmeter and Pressure Switch - remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached.

There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required determining if the components are good or bad.

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The error is an indication a motor speed problem. You will need to check the following:

- Check the wiring harness. Verify all connections between the Drive Motor, Motor Control Unit (MCU), and Central Control Unit (CCU).

NOTE: The MCU is a circuit board located in the vicinity of the Drive Motor on the bottom rear of the washer. To access the MCU, you will need to remove the back panel of the washer.

NOTE: The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located behind the wash tub. You will need to remove the top panel to access the CCU. This is accomplished by removing the three screws in the back of the washer that hold the top in place. Once the screws are removed, the top panel will slide back, then lift off.

- Check the Drive Motor. Perform a continuity check of the Drive Motor windings. Remove the connector plug and check across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 1 to 3. All readings should be approximately 6 ohms. HINT: You can also take this reading by removing connector 2 from the MCU and measuring across pins 1, 2 and 3. If the readings are good, this will also prove the wiring and connector good.

- Check the MCU. The connectors are numbered 1 to 3 (L to R). That is, with the MCU installed, connector 1 is on the bottom, followed by 2 in the middle, and 3 on top.

Connector 1 - is the serial communications link between the MCU and CCU and has three wires. At the opposite end, this will be the 2nd connector from the rear on the left-hand side of the CCU.
Connector 2 - is the link between the MCU and the Drive Motor. Pins 1, 2, and 3 on this connector are the Drive Motor windings. Pins 4 and 5 are for the tachometer.
Connector 3 – is the primary power connector. Pins 1 to 2 should read 120VAC with the door in the locked position. Pin 3 is ground. At the opposite end, this is the 4th connector from the right on the front of the CCU.

NOTE: All the connector pins are numbered R to L.

If your continuity readings are normal for the Drive Motor and you have verified all connectors, replace the MCU.

If any of the Drive Motor windings indicate readings higher that 6 ohms, replace the Drive Motor.

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Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. F/2 error means Long Drain. If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes, the water valves are turned off and "F/02" is flashed. Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display.

• Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked.
• Check the electrical connections at the pump and make sure the pump is running.
• Check the drain pump filter for foreign objects.
• If the above does not correct the problem, replace the pump.

Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.



Thanks
Rylee

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. The issue seems to be with the door lock assembly that has gone bad and should be replace, you can fix it yourself if you know which part it is that should be replaced and yes the door should come out to fix this. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Take the vent tubing off and inspect for heavy buildup of lint. There is a moister sensor that detects a clogged vent and shuts off the heat automaticlly. If the vent tubes are clean the sensor needs to be replaced .

"FH" is a No Water Detect error. It is an indication that you either have no water coming into the washer, or very little water at all. The following link explains how to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608753-fh_error_code


This is one of those error codes that can be tricky to troubleshoot due to the many potential causes of the problem. My adivce to you is to eliminate the easy common sense items first, such as making sure the water taps are turned on sufficiently, the inlet hoses aren not kinked, the water inlet valve is not clogged, you don't have a siphoning issue, and/or the drain pump is working.

For the more complicated potential causes, each one of these washers comes with a technical data sheet inside.

To access, you will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door. The access screws are located under the bottom front edge of the panel. You may have to prop the two front feet of the washer up for better access ( a 2x4 works well for this). With the screws removed, the panel should drop down, then come off. If the tech sheet isn't directly behind the panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls.

The tech sheet lists all error code definitions, troubleshooting data, diagnostics procedures and wiring diagrams. I mention the tech sheet because you may need it to troubleshoot this error code.

Read through the information provided and let me know if you have any further questions. I hope this can help you.

NOTE: If you have already verified the sediment screens at the inlet valve are clear, the drain pump is not clogged and all the hoses are clear and not kinked, you've narrowed it down to either a siphoning issue, pressure switch problem or a flowmeter.

when you put it on to drain can you hear a noise from the pump to show its working, if it wont drain it wont spin, if you can hear the pump then there is a blockage somewhere could be in the pump, filter, outlet hose or stanpipe

"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.

Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice...

Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:

- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.

In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.


NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.

FDL is a door latch error - the latch is reporting an error, so for safety reasons - will not spin....

Latch replacement procedure:

1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.

Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.
(From tips by JSRock)

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