Top 20 Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

I would get to the water outlet pipe and blow hard down it to try and clear any blockage if not take the pump housing apart to clear the blockage eric

hi faulty controller not enough time given to the drain pump to empty

The MCU control is what powers the motor. The CCU Control in the top of the unit is what is used to lock and unlock and door.

By what you have stated, it sounds like a lid switch failure. The lid switch has to be closed for the drain and spin cycle on your washer. If the lid switch is faulty, it will act as if the lid is not closed. On this model, make sure the lid hinge screws are tight. If the screws are loose, the hinge might not activate the lid switch. A quick check you can do is to jump the lid switch and see if it will drain. If the washer operates, the lid switch needs to be replaced. To jump the lid switch you need to unplug the washer and open the console. I have provided you with the instructions for opening the console below. Once you have the console open, locate the connector for the lid switch. Place an insulated jumper between the gray and tan wires. Not the green it is a ground and will cause a short. After inserting the jumper make sure it will not touch anything metal, plug the washer in. Start the washer in a drain cycle. If the washer drains and spins, you need to replace the lid switch. Do not leave the jumper in while you are waiting for the part. The jumper is only of the test. To you replace the lid switch you have to remove the cabinet of the washer. The instructions for that are also in the image below. Once the cabinet is removed you can take the screws out securing the lid switch and remove the harness from the clips along the underside of the cabinet. Then reinstall the lid switch in the reverse order. Before you reassemble the cabinet, please read the instructions for installing the cabinet provided in the image. I hope this is helpful. Please reply below if you need further assistance.

There should be a specific number with the F

unplug for a minute and see if it resets the cpu.

you are spot on

Have you tried unplugging the unit and waiting for a minute and then plug it back in. The load might have been off balance and caused that condition. Once it has been reset you might be able top end the cycle.

Can you hear the pump running? It might be plugged or not running I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/pat_7f6b46a4565f904d

Sounds like dispenser in stopped up and water from fill valve has no where to go.

copied from the net.............. The "F20" fault code is indicating NO WATER IS BEING DETECTED ENTERING THE WASHER OR THE PRESSURE SWITCH IS NOT TRIPPING OR SENSING A TRIP. If there is no water in the unit: Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way and water enters. Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves. Verify inlet valve operation. If there is water in the unit: Verify drain pump operation. Verify that the pressure switch hose is in good condition and properly connected to tub and pressure switch. Verify there is not a siphon problem. Press STOP twice to clear the display. The machine will drain for 3 minutes before unlocking the door. Unplug washer or disconnect power. Verify wire harness connections to inlet valves, pressure switch, drain pump and Central Control Unit (CCU). Check all hoses for possible leaks. Plug in washer or reconnect power Verify pressure switch operation. I recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair your washer if water will entering the machine and not siphon out. cheers

Aren't microprocessor controlled appliances wonderful? Especially when the code is flawed! No wonder the space program bit the dust!

Check the shocks on the drum to make sure they are ok. if they wear out the drum spins out of balance and the computer wont allow it spine because it would WALK and damage itself.

Sounds like you have some thing caught in the drum and/or drum bearing has give up the ghost---another thought is the drum brake is being applied while trying to spin--something could be out of sequence with timer and/or wires crossed/shorted causing functions at wrong time---can you spin it when it's off ?? the reason being you can't open the door while running is a safety factor--water doesn't run on floor--somebody getting arm caught in drum etc etc----do you have the operating manual--if so does it have trouble shooting section---to check this out while operating is a very very dangerous situation---this better left to a professional do to the machine being able to mutilate or dismember parts of you.

Hello Rickgall1998, If t is a rear bearing (no symptoms listed) I doubt at 3 years old the bearing can be bad! I can't help you but if it is the door seal or some other common part perhaps you can find it here; Kenmore Washing Machine Model 110 47532601 11047532601 110 47532601 Parts Without some symptoms being listed it is hard to assist you. Good Luck! Rich Lilja

Hello Karen, The following video should fully explain everything that you should know on how to do this replacement and any warnings. Good Luck! Rich Lilja

Hello Tony, I had this same problem with my machine and found that the micro-computer board on the top rear near the cover of the machine are very prone to having bad electrical contacts on the board where the wire connectors go. The answer simply was to remove this board and add solder to each and every solder pad that goes to the connectors. The board is not bad (defective) just poor electrical connections.The repairman probably just wiggled the 1 with the issue and it worked for you for months as described! Perhaps you could get away with just disconnecting the electrical connectors and plugging them back in -it could buy you some more time before fixing it permanently with solder! Good Luck! Rich Lilja

sounds to me like they are jerking you and trying for more money, I would check the lid switch components with a meter.

Hello George, The error code F28 means one or both of these parts are bad. Motor Control Unit (8540135) Microcomputer Machine Control Unit (8540788) I had this same problem with my machine and found that the micro-computer board on the top rear near the cover of the machine are very prone to having bad electrical contacts on the board where the wire connectors go. The answer simply was to remove this board and add solder to each and every solder pad that goes to the connectors. The board is not bad (defective) just poor electrical connections.The repairman probably just wiggled the 1 with the issue and it worked for you for months as described! Perhaps you could get away with just disconnecting the electrical connectors and plugging them back in -it could buy you some more time before fixing it permanently with solder! Good Luck! Rich Lilja

I had this same /similar problem with my machine and found that the micro-computer board on the top rear near the cover of the machine are very prone to having bad electrical contacts on the board where the wire connectors go. The answer simply was to remove this board and add solder to each and every solder pad that goes to the connectors. The board is not bad (defective) just poor electrical connections.The repairman probably just wiggled the 1 with the issue and it worked for you for months as described! Perhaps you could get away with just disconnecting the electrical connectors and plugging them back in -it could buy you some more time before fixing it permanently with solder! Good Luck! Rich Lilja