Sounds like the lid lock itself is bad, be sure to check the connections at the control board. There should be a tech sheet inside the front panel towards the top left. This can help you check the error codes and wiring diagrams.
this is a design 2000 mfg by whirlpool. great design and been around for some while. "If" it drains but doesn't spin or agitate, it is the transmission drive coupler. part no 285753a. very common problem. it is the sacrificial part between the transmission and motor. Amazon com 285753A FACTORY OEM GENUINE WHIRLPOOL KENMORE DIRECT DRIVE...
Sensors are usually engaged by a depression of a tab.located directly under the cover. Replace the tab in the cabinet or use something to ensure it is pressed down.
There are videos on you tube. The lids are usually held down with a couple of clips sometimes screws. If it has a switch that is activated with a plunger on the lid test it with a screwdriver if it doesn't have a hole us a magnet to test.
This unit does not handle a super large load as it advertised. When you put a super large load, the sensor is over-sized and will not move on the next cycle.
do you hear the motor running ,it will drain but no spin,this has no belt in it it's built just like a whirlpool washer because whirlpool owns maytag now and this washer has a motor coupling,i would check this first,do you know if the agitator is working or do you hear a grinding noise when it's running?watch this video and you don't have to disconnect the wire harness to the motor if you don't want to,i don't just put motor off to right side still connectedhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K1KHEogf3c
You have stripped out the Aggitator or the Bolt came loose. Pop the Top on the Aggitator. There is also a chance that there is SOAP build up inside that is causing a problem depending on the machine...
It is
possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors
due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program
controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN
pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from
the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the
water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the
voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no
voltage from the controller. This means
the controller is a suspect.
If the
water flows though the inlet then the flow pressure should be good, if not the
inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the
inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL
SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level
to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is
most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must
be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for
rinse and wash.
sounds like u might have broken a belt need to take it apart back side where motor is and their should be a belt there try not over loading it thats when it usually happens
What is the model number listed on the unit?The lid lock assembly is broken. If you are under warranty get it replaced. If not remove the top of the washer and take out the switch assembly. The 4 wires going in are Yellow, Red, White, and Blue. If you short the white and blue together, the washer thinks the lid is closed. If you short the red white and blue together the washer thinks the lid is closed and locked. The yellow is only there to activate the electromagnetic switch.Disconnecting the switch assembly will not work. The electromagnet locks the lid and it also unlocks the lid. It is not a matter of cutting the power to the magnet.Installing 2 switches that connect the red white and blue is the best option if you want to remove the lock.The first switch should connect the white and blue. (LID CLOSED)The second should connect the red to the white/blue connection. (LID LOCKED)
