Top 20 Maytag Bravos MTW6600T Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

It is likely to be a failed control board. They are expensive so call for service. Then you get the correct diagnosis and warranty on the part and the labour. https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+bravos+washer+powers+on+and+then+off ..

I'd replace lid lock.

Most likely suspension rods and bushings need replacing. Also check outer tub ring. Sometimes it will break from beating on sides of washer, behind where water comes out.

The machine has found a fault.

revisit the drain pump and make sure that you have the small "O" ring seal properly installed between the housings otherwise replace the pump assembly

Maytag Bravos MTW6600T Top Load Washer Run ... - Fixya

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Maytag Bravos MTW6600T Top Load Washer, run diagnostic test ccu related issues. Get free help, solutions & advice from top Maytag experts.

Maytag Bravos MTW6600T Top Load Washer Diagnostic ...

Washer fills with water then drains: My advice is free because God is so good! The critical question is. Is the water is just running down the drain but the pump isn't running. If it is being pumped out, and you can hear the pump running just the same as when it's emptying prior to spin then it could be aborting the wash because it is, or it thinks it's overheating. ( due to defective water temperature switch) If the pump is failing to shut off then there is something wrong with the electronics. If your washer is a mechanical timer controlled device then you may have a sticking switch (which may explain if switching cycles does something for you). But if you have an electronic timer then you may be experiencing a board failure, where a cycle is being commanded when it is not intended to by design. If water isn't being pumped out, but just draining away all the time, the washer will keep detecting there isn't enough water inside and top up with more. Modern washing machines should be sophisticated enough to realize something's wrong and abort with an error, but if not, it may continue washing or rinsing for a short while before losing enough water to trigger more coming in again. It can get stuck on this cycle indefinitely and it's called siphoning. Siphoning occurs when the end of the drain hose is lower than the level of the water inside the washing machine. Try raising the hose and see what happens. Also the drain hose should have some type of air gap where it fits into the stand pipe. It should not have an air tight fit. Again Either it's siphoning down the drain due to an issue with the plumbing, it's overfilling, or also if it ( THE WATER) overheats then in some machines the software will employ a fill and drain tactic to cool down the water. The important thing is to work out which of these different faults is causing the problem by careful observation. Other switch's to check would be the water inlet valve and the water pressure switch with a multi meter for continuity or OHMS.

If load is wrinkled the load may have set in the washer to long it is recommended to remove wash as soon as it stops or the load was too large for the washer capacity. Loads must be balanced and move freely during washing. Also using too much detergent could cause the deposits on clothing. Using an he ( high Efficiency) detergent might help. Using delicate or another cycle with low spin speed will reduce wrinkling.hope this helps

Sorry but I think you will have to call the repairman on this one. Hope it is still in warranty.

Yes unfortunately. but it's not terribly difficult to do. There are many how-to videos online

Check either the main drive pulley or the rotor (depending on which it has) for looseness

I think I'd be checking the dispenser in the left rear for a crack or rub mark. Also the hoses going to and from the dispenser. They are plastic and fragile.if the top has been lifted or an extremely off balance load ,one may be damaged.

There isn't much I can add to Gordon's Appliance solution. thats exactly where I'd go for the solution .

Check the heat sensitivity or shorten the cycle.

check timer assembly

the f51 error indicates that your rotor position sensor) is not registering or it is just bad. try this, remove and reinstall the connector at the RPS at least three times to clean off any corrosion built up on the connector and RPS due to the intermittent connections. after that go ahead and try to run a cycle. if you continue to receive the error then you need to replace the RPS sensor. Here is that part to order. Whirlpool W10178988 Sensor AppliancePartsPros com

The error code "dl" is for door lock. From what I've read, it may mean you need to replace the latch assembly.

Maybe the spin is touuching the body

That means Unbalanced Load

Spin solenoid could have water leaking onto it and it stuck on , but noise is most likely caused by bearing getting water into them,dose it leek water on the floor?