20 Most Recent Whirlpool 4.0 Cu. Ft. Plus Washer Questions & Answers

HI, check the following to address this issue.

1. Clogged drain line or water pump
Check to see if there's something stuck inside the pump or the drain hose connected to the pump (pump is usually located at the bottom and towards the back of the washing machine).

2. Water Pump
If the drain line isn't clogged, you may have a problem with the water pump such as a frozen pulley or a broken impeller. If that's the case replace the water pump. Note: if you have a belt driven washer, check the belt(s) for cracks, as this would be a perfect time to replace the belt(s) if needed.

**The most common issue will be an obstructed hose or, line

Whirlpool 4.0... | Answered on Aug 15, 2009

Hello, how are you?

Check one thing for me. When it's in the spin cycle, the drain pump is pumping the water out..check to see if the drain tube behind the unit, that goes into the wall, if the water is coming out of that. Test this on a full load please..

Good luck :)

Whirlpool 4.0... | Answered on Aug 10, 2009

Generally a bad drain pump or a clogged drain pump or drain hose. Have a look and let me know what you find.


Whirlpool 4.0... | Answered on Aug 09, 2009

It sounds like your water pump is broken. there is a motor inside that pumps the water out when the machine computer changes to spin cycle

Whirlpool 4.0... | Answered on Aug 07, 2009

Check for power at socket using a lamp. If nothing, check the breaker for that circuit in the house electrical panel--push OFF, then ON. If now get light, try the washer again. If you get a loud hum from the machine, it may be a locked motor. Pull the plug again and check the motor. The tub can be drained by lowering the end of the drain hose below the interior water level.

Whirlpool 4.0... | Answered on Aug 01, 2009

This is commonly the symptom of a lid switch malfunction. If this is a Whirlpool manufacured top loader, the following link explains how to access and/or replace the switch:


Before assuming you have any defective parts, ensure the switch is not loose. They can come become loose and not make contact. If you have a model that uses a lid strike, make sure the lid strike on the washer lid is not broken off. This will also give you the same symptoms.

If replacement parts are required, you can purchase on line at searspartsdirect.com, appliancepartspros.com, pcappliancerepair.com or repairclinic.com. All these sites offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best deal.

If you have questions, or if my diagnosis is incorrect, please post back and let me know, so that I may assist you better.

NOTE: Please provide an accurate brand name and model number if further assistance is required. My assessment was based on the symptoms you provided, the picture you listed this under and the most common fail part based on my experience.

Whirlpool 4.0... | Answered on Jul 30, 2009

It sounds liike you are describing the agitator cam. If you go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number, you can find what I am talking about under the "Agitator, Basket and Tub Parts" heading as item 9. The illustration should also give you a perspective on how the part should be reinstalled.

If I am incorrect, or if you have questions on how to reinstall this part, please let me know, so that I may be able to assist you better.

NOTE: Make sure you do not overtighten the agitator bolt as it may damage the agitator or restrict its movement. Tighten until snug.

Whirlpool 4.0... | Answered on Jul 27, 2009

Heater or heat sensor problem that has to be tested with a multimeter.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Nov 20, 2019


Usually either the lid lock mechanism, the lid lock actuator or the board is the culprit even a disconnected capacitor.

When the START button is pressed, the washer will first perform a self-test on the lid lock mechanism. You will hear a click, the basket will make a slight turn, and the lid will unlock briefly before locking again. Once the lid has locked the second time, the washer
will slowly spin the dry load to estimate the load size, and begin adding water. The washer will then move the load briefly, pause to allow water to soak in to the load, and resume adding water. This process may repeat until the correct amount of water has been
added for the load. You may also hear water flowing through the dispenser, adding detergent to the load.

NOTE: The sensing light may also come on during the Soak and Wash portions of the cycle. This is normal.

Try unplugging the cord a couple of times. See what happens then try going into diagnostic error codes, see what codes are shown. To pin point where the problem is. if you have no display to read the fault codes. Your main control board may be the issue.

Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors.
This is proof that the shifter/sensor actuator assembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed.

I suggest unplug the washer and check the wire connections on the switch. If a meter is available then you can check the resistance (ohms) of the lock motor.

Note: After performing the manual test and the lid lock works perfectly, or at least as it is supposed to. You can eliminate that as the problem.If the lock worked in the manual test but doesn't in an actual cycle then I suspect the control board is at fault.

A safety feature found on front load washing machine is the door switch and the door lock and strike. On most models, the door switch must be closed and the door lock must be activated before the washer will start. The switch is normally located in the door frame of the washing machine, but may also be part of the door lock assembly. Inspect the strike to make sure that it engages the door lock assembly and that the door remains closed. To check the door switch for continuity with a multi-meter, you will need to disconnect the power and remove the front panel.

The lid switch on a top load washing machine is a safety device designed to prevent the motor circuit from operating when the lOn some models, the water inlet valve circuit is controlled as well. If the lid switch fails, the washer may not start. The lid switch is normally located beneath the main top with a projection on the lid or a pin attached to the lid that will actuate the switch when the lid is closed. Verify that the switch is being activated mechanically and that any levers or actuators are not damaged or sticking. If the switch is being activated but there is no power being supplied to the motor or water valve circuits, then the switch may be defective

The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in
God is good and that's why I give free advice.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Nov 17, 2019

check under agitator for broken cogs or gears under plate

Whirlpool... | Answered on Nov 14, 2019

It should be flashing a code that you can look up. A common code is for the pump to be jammed with something. It can be freed up through an access point under the lower front cover.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Nov 14, 2019

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