20 Most Recent Ridgid 12 Volt Cordless 3/8 In. Drill Questions & Answers

Hi,
To start, I assume you took the "good" battery from the working drill and tested the inoperative drill.
Good for doing that.
The other causes I know of in Drills that turn them into paper weights are as follows:
1 Worn Brushed: You can attempt to test this by squeezing the assumed good trigger button and
Taping the drill or lightly banging it on a bench top or something else. If it is brushes, it will often but no necessarily all the time, start to run for a moment, or just running. Since you use the drill and "use it a lot" That will be the first thing I would look for.


2 Trigger Button.

I would bring it to a tool service place or send it back to Ridgid. Try this link

http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Technical-Services/index.htm

Hope this helps, Happy New Year
Mark

I am assuming you are reffering to the torque setting on the transmission that is set by turning the numbered ring just behind the chuck on the drill. The ring adjusts the torque where the motor will not be able to turn the chuck any more. At the lowest setting, 1 or 2, you can hold the chuck with your hand and the motor should turn without turning the chuck in your hand. This setting would let you turn screws into threaded holes or nuts but not let you over torque them and strip out the threads. Higher settings will let you drive screws into wood to a determined depth like flush with the surface or slightly countersunk. This depth will also be affected by the hardness of the wood so if you hit a knot the depth will change. The highest settings will drive screws or bolts in very tight before the transmission will slip.

In my tip section I have detailed instructions on how to do this, let me know if you need more assistance.

I dont know that the small difference in hertz would make a huge difference. What is the voltage 120 or 240? that would be my concern. And the company AEG is actually a german company that manufactures tools. They also make tools for many other tool companies e.g. Milwaukee Tool. I just searched and by entering the words aeg.com I came up with their website, you can browse the site or send them an email for advice. Let me know if you need more assistance and if I have helped you would you please vote accordingly.

Yes, it's tripping on over temp. There is a thermal protection inside the motor. Try to not press so hard so the motor doesn't pull so hard. Let the drill do the work, and let it run at the set RPM. You will get more life from the battery and the drill motor. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

Question edited for clarity, full 'make mode (what it is)' and typos. Question moved to category. It will be the same as this https://cdn2.ridgid.com/resources/media?key=422ee47d-2f02-43b1-a0da-1d89d0c0070b&languageCode=es&type=document https://www.google.com/search?q=r5013+drill+wiring+diagram ....

Nothing else, just pray that the extra 2 volts (11% overcharge current) doesn't set the battery on fire and ruin the charger.

check the charger first for correct operation power tool batteries are prone to memory block so if you do not completely drain a battery ,it will recharge only to the last voltage point recharged to ways to fix take it to a battery shop that may be able to force charge the pack have the batteries in the pack replaced with better quality batteries buy a new battery pack from an authorized dealer

there are points where the battery connects to the charger. these points can be tested with a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter- and it can just be a volt ohm meter, it doesn't have to be digital ) - your meter should read voltage when checking across the points. Now if it has a button to turn it on and you turn it on and measure nothing, you're going to have to open the charger up... there is a lot more to this testing... next time, include model number for the charger please

The chucks on these drills are put on not only VERY tight but usually with some lok-tite to boost so they don't come off easy. In my shop we usually lock a 1/2" hex driver in the chuck and use a 1/2" impact wrench to knock them loose. It usually takes a few seconds to come loose. Another method is to lock the short end of a 1/2" allen wrench in the chuck so that it sticks straight up with the drill standing up. Then lay the drill on its side with the top at the edge of your bench and the allen wrench sticking over the side of the bench. NOTE: The chuck follows the lefty-loosey, righty-tighty rule, the chuck screw is reverse thread. Have someone firmly hold the drill and then hit the end of the allen wrench until the chuck comes loose. Once you break it free it will spin off easily. You do need to put the new one on with lok-tite and as tight as you possibly can then lok-tite the screw and tighten it as much as you can by hand.