RTO Ariston Gl4.0 Instantaneous Electronic Water Heaters - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Here is a link to the manufactures website, you can troubleshoot, download the manual and get in contact with the maker.
http://www.boschhotwater.com/HelpfulResources/TechnicalSupport/AristonModels/GLSeries/Specifications/tabid/649/Default.aspx

verrify elctic to the heating element if u have electric there then it is a blown element must have water in the water heater when it is on or it will blow an element every time old age and corrosin will cause an ellement to blow too or if there is no electrick it could be a bad thermostate check out this page for ording info http://boschhotwater.com/Default.aspx?tabid=668

sounds likr thermostat {overheat}

there should be a switch which toggles between hot water only /// hot water + central heating /// & possible off on
Either on the boiler or on a separate timer control

If it has a distance from the boiler to your use the water in the lines and the lines themselves ahve to warm up before you will get hot water, Let me know more if this dosnt help. Please rate me as high as possible if it does help you understand your trouble.

One more thing ,they do make a valve call mixing valve.That's to mix the water hot,cold to a temp. you want.Most restranrest have them in the water lines at the restroom.They suspose to keep it around 110 deg.

Something is wrong with the power . You check the connecter and you will proabbly find only side is making.

Owner Manuals

Bad faucet cartridge: walk-thru on following link http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

What water pressure reading do you have? IS there a mixer in the system? What is the exact model number?

no I dont think you have a mother board. If there wasone it would be in a box of some sort on the top or right near the top mounted on the side.

If you replaced the coupler, I would say the gas valve is bad. Go to you local supply store and get a new valve. you should have 3 connection on the valve, the main gas feed and the main burner and your coupler.

Make sure you turn off the water at the main, drain it all down and when you have all the connection moved get a large channel lock or pipe wrench and turn the valve counter clock wise use tape or dope on the section that goes into the tank and tighten it up, hook up your other pipes and test for gas leak with soap and water.

Make sure when you buy the valve you get a match to the kind of gas you have natural or L P one will not work with the other.

OH check for gas leaks

Best of luck Tom

First check and see if the dial on the gas valve is on the ON position. Next turn the thermostat up all the way.if it does not come on then, this sounds crazy, but, tap the gas valve twice lightly with the back end of a screw driver, sometimes a spec of dirt can clog the gas valve and this releases it. if it still doesnt come on, you need a Volt Ohms meter or multi meter, set the meter to millivolts, you want to connect the 2 leads from the meter to the terminals on the gas valve that the 2 wires from the pilot generator, located next to the main burner underneath tank. turn the meter on and the millivolts should read a minimum of 400 milivolts, if lower, replace pilot generator. If still doesnt work, replace gas valve.

That is not a model number that sounds familiar. Should be a tag on side of water heater behind cover, outside. If it has the little arm adjustment for temperature on top of gas valve, simply move it over a little to the left to increase water temperature, and try it until temperature is what you are happy with.
I'm assuming when you say it goes out completely that the pilot remains on and water heater re-lights when called for? If you adjust that temperature lever over, and water still doesn't get hot, you need to replace gas control, as thermostat is built in to it.

I am not sure they are available to non Hitachi service centres. https://documentation.hitachiaircon.com/glb/en/pac/rua-at3s

Cannot find the fault code . There are vidoes on u tube saying how to reset thr code By pressing the reset button . If this does not work youcan ccontact vaillent on there web page . I have a mate who works for them i will ask him as well

Do I need to insulate this heater out in the shed? Freezing temperatures

Call a engineer

The P8 fault can mean many things when it pops up on your Mitsubishi Electric wall controller. The P8 fault is activated when the indoor coil sensor does not change the temperature for a set amount of time after the compressor is (or should be) switched on.

Where does the tube sensor go

This one looks the same.https://www.ebay.ca/itm/133397559348They are made by Harper Wyman and using that model number, this is the result.https://www.google.com/search?q=Atwood+RV+oven+control+valve+57294But this shows more that looks similarhttps://www.google.com/search?q=Harper+Wyman+oven+control+valveAnd then if we go here and Zoom in, you will see MTZ 22300https://youngfartsrvparts.ca/products/used-atwood-wedgewood-oven-thermostat-57294Which leads us here and the Specs Sheet.https://www.copreci.com/en/gas-cooking/product-range/thermostats/with-safety-and-thermostatic-flow-regulation/372-mtz-22300-seriesand from there to here, and Parts Town stocks them!List Price: $ 318.24https://www.partstown.com/fagor-commercial/fgrc12008712..