20 Most Recent Bosch WFMC 3200 Front Load Washer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Hi

Sounds like the motor is not turning the brushes will be worn out remove the motor and take into repair shop or hand tool repair shop to get brushes replaced.
Or try this. Open the door, grab and paddle on the drum and spin it. There isn't any kind of transmission on this washer, so the drum should spin freely. If it is hard to turn, then pull back the seal and see is a piece of cloth has gotten caught between the drum and outer tub. As to seeing the motor/belt, you just have to remove the 20+ screws on the back panel with a T20 torx bit. However If this washer uses a brushless motor, then there isn't any brushes to wear out.

Let us know if you want to know something more else please accept the suggestion.
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Hi, that is totally normal and the time displayed is never "actual" time but rather an "estimated" time which can be affected by factors such as water temp. wieght distribution ( load balancing) as well as detergent usage. Hope that answer's your question. If so please rate it to your satisfaction or let me know if I can assist you further. Thank you for visiting "fixya". Macmarkus :(

Hello,

To answer in short regarding your question "Does the Bosch wfmc4301UC have a sensor to sense when the load is unbalanced"...sort of. Now to expand and hopefully explain. This is an abbreviated ( as well as my understanding as an authorized servicer ) discription from B/S/H. (bosch)

All Bosch front load washer`s ( and most other "european" frontloads) use a tachometer/dyno at the end of the motor. What this does is measure the resistance based on the weight of the items/load (heavier load more resistance, more weight on one side then the other = uneven/unbalanced load ) as the unit reverses back and forth and distributes the load. As the items get distributed more evenly the motor speed will increase. If the unit cannot achieve a balance satisfactory after aprrox. 16 attempt`s for the control, the bosch will minimize/reduce the selected spin speed.

Having said all that, it is not perfect. There are other factor`s that can and will affect the balance or cause excessive vibration`s. The number one cause of excessive vibration is the wrong type of detergent being used or too much. These machine`s have to be used with "HE" low sudsing detergent. (refer to your owner`s manual for other factor`s which provoke vibration/knocking)

Different garment`s hold sud`s differently, hence causing an un-equal load distribution as well under long term use major knocking and premature bearing wear.

Hope this answer`s your question and help`s move you forward. Let me know if I can assist you further.

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Good luck.

macmarkus :)

broken displai chek fuse

Your load is probably unbalanced. Open and redistribute the garments or take some items out.

Be careful to allow the new door gasket to relax for at least a day before doing the installation. Take it out of the box and lay it out in a circle to help get any kinks out of it.

Also, when installing the new gasket, go slowly when stretching it over the edges of the washer drum and the door edge, being extra careful to make sure you align the gasket properly on the washer. You might want to take a digital picture of the existing gasket before you remove it, so you can refer to it when reinstalling the new gasket.

Some models have a port for the water inlet on the gasket, if your's does, install the gasket over the inlet first, then move onto the rest of it. If your's doesn't have a inlet port opening in the gasket, just be sure you have the gasket orientation correct.

Replacing a door gasket/boot is one of the things that most homeowners can do themselves and save yourself having to pay for a technician.

Here's a exploded line drawing of your washer, so you can see the parts and order of installation before you dive into taking things apart.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=WFMC3200UC-01&productCategoryId=0153200&brandId=1794&modelName=WASHER&diagramPageId=00002&componentDescription=DOOR%20ASSEMBLY&documentId=P0507026&backToLink=Return%20to%20Sub%20Components%20list

COURTESY:VTTOOLMAN----EXPERT OF FIXYA

that whole piece is part of a switch. you must take off the front panel to fix. not a easyfix if you dont know how.

have you checked the drain pump.there may still be water in there if you did not use a wet dry shop vac.the access apnel on the lower right side can be removed and there is a white zip tie looking piece of plastic hanging from the switch pull it down and it should unlock the door.

the removed the drain pump cap there may be water in it will come out and look for any kind of obstruction.

You will have to pop off the panel on the bottom right of the front of the machine. Inside you find the pump. You will have to make the pump work manually (Look out for the flood.) Once you have drained the water, then the door should open.

check the hose it's clogged or the stainer it's clogged too

that test indicates a faulty speed sensor or wiring harness.

Hi
I have a user manual - swedish, Suomi, Norwidian and danish

It goes in the smallest of the 3 compartments, it usually has a removeable section.
Hope this helps.

Remove the drawer from the dispenser housing, get a stiff piece of wire, and form a right angled bend in it about 1" long.
Poke the wire into the holes in the top of the dispenser and wiggle it about to clear the holes.
This should solve the problem.
Please rate my solution.
Thanks.

Remove the soap drawer, and thoroughly clean all parts, including the pieces inside the drawer.
Get a piece of stiff wire and form a right angled bend in one end, then poke it into all the holes in the top of the dispenser housing
This will clear any blockage there.
Hope this helps you.

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
It pumps, but doesn't spin
If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The clutch may be worn. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The transmission may not be shifting properly. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.


Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee

Although all brands are different in design, the basic concept is the same. When a machine won't spin, there are several things to consider:

• Is the belt broken? Loose?
  
• Does the lid switch click when closing? (see video below)
  
• Does the spin solenoid engage? (1984 and before)
  
• Drive coupling worn out? (on some newer Whirlpool & Kenmore top loaders)
  
• Clutch worn out?
  
• Current to motor? (Use voltmeter to check)
  

Do a Internet search and type in the model and diagram.

You put it in the smallest of the 3 compartments.
Please rate my solution.
Thanks.