20 Most Recent Fender Frontman 65R 65W 1x12 Guitar Combo Amplifier Questions & Answers

After ruling out guitar wiring or bad cables... Try the 2nd input on the amp also Is it on both channels, or just one?

The reverb should be quite strong. I would first look at the reverb volume pot R42 which is a 50K pot. I would also check the voltages on the test points near U4 (TLO-72 op amp tp13 and tp14) which amplifies the signal coming out of the box. It is possible the box has low power levels as well.
The problem is going to be around that section of the board if it isn't a dirty or dead(ish) pot.


The reverb should be noticeable enough to be annoying ;-]

http://cie-wc.edu/Series_Parallel_9_14.pdf Not recommended. you could add 3 more 8 ohm speakers in series / parallel wiring and keep an 8 ohm load to the amp, or 2x 4 ohm speakers in series, or 2x 16 ohm speakers in parallel

Turn the volume down.
Check your gain.
That should solve it.

it depends on originality and condition of the guitar 100% is needed for top value and pristine condition will bring about 1500 -1800 at a store they have to resell it

Simple: connect the headphones out (3.5mm jack) to the input jack of your fender (6.3 jack). By doing this you will loose one channel so you better generate a mono signal inside your computer before. Electrically this is no problem, nothing will be damaged. Turn the gain and volume knobs down and apply a signal from your Mac. Gently increase gain and volume. Et voila wonderful mono sound through a guitar amp

Why was it on for over a year :D Has anyone replaced the fuse? In the service manual I found it has to be only 2 Amps! Okay let's solve the problem. The power transformer was overloaded which caused the broken winding. It is still overloaded what can be heard by the hum sound. First thought was to check main capacitors or better just replace them! If the hum gets louder, they might also become warm. Check voltages after bridge rectifier and smoothing circuit. They should be +/-42 V (TP3, TP4) and +/- 16 V (TP5, TP6) Let me know which of them is faulty Cheers

This sounds like one of this nasty problems with the solder points. One of them might be faulty so sometimes there is a contact sometimes not. You could try to locate it by knocking gently with the plastic end of a screwdriver on the pcb. If vibrations cause the noise you could check all solder points optical or just resolder them. There are not too many. Also check all potentiometers! As they are mechanical parts vibration caused issues can be found here very often especially on their solder points.

There is something a bit more serious than the fuse. I would start by checking that the speaker itself is the correct type. This should be a 8 ohm speaker. Then I would play it and see if the output transformer is hot. This may be over driving the speaker. I would also look at the main power transformer. You might have one with the export transformer which can work with 110 or 220. I have no idea of your location so no idea which is your local level. Something is either over volt or over amps. Most of this amp runs at 15 volts and digital runs very cold compared to a tube amp.

I looked over the schematic and I just can't see anything else that would do that other than the things I have mentioned. A hot speaker is "very"unusual. If you can check the voltages with a meter this should be easy to point out the cause. It shouldn't take much for a amp tech to sort it out if you have to take it in. I wouldn't run it that much until fixed. When you see abnormal heat then something is being stressed. So you can cause more damage by using it. There may be a problem with the power transformer or votlage regulator stage but since the speaker is heating that could end up needing replacement if run too long.

Without having it in front of me I would sayy you may be looking at a new power transformer.or diodes and possibly caps. Any of those could cause the base issue. This is different enough with the hot speaker than I'm not that sure without seeing it.

It could be dirty interupt contacts on the jack you are plugging into. Spray some conct cleaner from the back side and plug and unplug a few times to see if that clears it up. Also spraying the controls and switches- make sure you get the spray stream into the switch or potentiometer to get on the contacts to disolve grime.Other potential sources are poorly soldered connections on the amp chassis- litterally anywhere. Reflowing all solder connections would likely remedy the problem. Also make sure the nuts that retain the jacks to the amp chassis are snug and will not move.

the fuse hopefully took the brunt of the higher voltage,, replacing the fuse should do the trick, but yes you need the voltage transformer for sure they sell them pretty cheap here, Just be sure and look for the wattage in each one http://www.dvdoverseas.com/store/index.html?loadfile=catalog6_0.html

Yes, there are several possibilities. First thing is to disconnect your guitar and then plug in the cord to the amp. Expect a bit of hum. If it screeches, then problem is not feedback via the guitar. If it doesn't MAYBE your guitar is "hearing the amp" which the guitar is then a microphone and can feedback. Moving the cable generates electrical noise which can trigger the feedback to start.
If you get the screech without the guitar connected, then TRY a new guitar cable. Make sure it is an INSTRUMENT cable... I have seen some try to use speaker cables or junky 1/4 inch cables intended for home stereo... these will NOT work and can cause the feedback. The next possibility is a broken jack on the amp. This would require repair. The common cause of this is to fail to run the cord through the handle of the amp... one trip on the cord or step on it pulling the plug sideways in the amp and the jack is broken and it is a trip to the shop as well. While on the subject ALWAYS run the cord at the guitar end either through the strap or your belt loop. Cords left dangling keep rotating and soon wear out the plug and also the jack in the guitar and then that has to go to the shop.

Check for loose mpounting bolts of the speaker itself. One unit I found had a Tolex covered back closure that was vibrating. Had to put a cleat in to secure it to the wall below it. Also check for wires that are unsecured.

Changing the speaker MAY turn out disappointing results. There is a limit what you can get from a 12 inch speaker in the bass range. USUALLY the amp manufacturers match the speaker/cabinet/and amp for about the best performance that can be expected. Want more bass? Step up to a 15 inch speaker.

The amp can accept most anything you can get out of a distortion pedal. If you play it too loud you can damage any amp.

I would HIGHLY recommend you either take your amp to the store where you are buying your pedal and try it with your guitar before buying.

ALSO don't forget to get a power adapter as the pedals "eat: batteries.

Assuming the fuse being blown is in the power supply, it's common for high output amplifiers to suffer from dried out capacitors. The really big main filter caps on the power supply board. The caps themselves often show a bulging of the body and can literally explode if the unit is left on.

If that is all that's required I'd definitely get it fixed as any tech worth his salt should be able to change them in a short time. Actually getting the correct value capacitor may cause a hold up but they are available.

I guess whether you go ahead is a matter between you and your wallet or wife :-) but I certainly wouldn't condemn the amp just yet.

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If you touch each wire, the one that receives the output of the tank should hum. Quick and dirty test.

That could be a number of problems, without looking at it its hard to diagnose.
The best solution would be to take it in to a local music store or repair specialist because unless you are a trained professional, working with guitar amplifiers can be dangerous.