20 Most Recent Roland Juno-D - Page 2 Questions & Answers

The name for the notes that don't stop playing is "Dreaded MIDI Drone". It is caused by multiple note on commands and lost "mating" note off commands.

Also read "c." on page 80 regarding buffer length and "choppy" sounds.

You need to turn off the echo of the MIDI that sends the signals back to the Juno. When near simulataneous MIDI signals are mixed the decoder can receive "partial" messages that re-trigger the notes and then miss the note off commands. If you can't find the setting in the software, disconnect the input to the Juno MIDI while recording it.

Without knowing what brand headphones you have it is hard to know what to advise... HOWEVER if your headphones have a small plug (1/8 inch) you must use a STEREO type 1/8 to 1/4 inch adapter. If you use a mono, that will short out the output of at least one side.

Answer:
Before i give you the right solution, i have to say that i have posted the answer to FIX the problem of all of the contact problems, people writing in how many of their keys are not working. And the post that they are showing is one that says to clean the contacts. That will not work.
Ok,
the answer.....
You can purchase a kit called Rubber contact kit here: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/20-3890&cid=prodCrossSell
or
Key contact Kit:
http://www.oaktreeent.com/Roland_Keyboard_Parts_Units.htm

These kit are made to re-coat the contacts on the keys. It will bring your board back to brand new condition and last as long if not longer than the original coating.
Also can be used for any rubber contacts like remotes or game controllers. etc.
This will work and i did mine after numerous times of taking the keys off and cleaning them.
I hope this gets out to all of you that are having the same problem.
Good luck

just a little protoleum jelly will do it

TRY GIOVANIA.

The velocity is usually sensed by having two contacts for each key. The contacs are usually a conductive rubber pill or sometimes a ring around another pill that press against traces on a circuit board under the keys. You need to clean both the pills and the traces with ONLY 99% isoprophyl alcohol and Q tips. These are usually in "domes" of non-conductive silicone rubber under the keys.

Be careful of the cables when you open the covers of the unit.

The key contacts need to be cleaned. They are usually conductive rubber pills in silicone domes that get pressed onto circuitboard traces by the keys. Disassemble to get at the contacts. clean ONLY with 99% isoprophyl alocohol and Q tips. Clean both the pills AND the circuit traces they contact.

Be very careful of cables when opening the unit. Document where all the screws go and their length and threads.

If you have the version 1 cable you need to download a driver. The details are at this link:http://www.cme-pro.com/en/news-detail.php?news_id=105

I would recommend taking it in to be repaired. If they service Roland products they will have access to any parts it needs. It sounds like the key contacts are damaged or dirty. In either case it is not easy to disassemble the Juno because of the internal wiring. It needs to be reassembled perfectly for it to work properly and it is easy to damage something during disassembly. Hope this helps.

This is probably normal. The sound generators need to re-configure when changing voices. This means that while one set is generating the old voice, others have to be set to the new and the old cancelled. The sound has to be muted between the setting changes... this takes a fraction of a second to do in the hardware. The only solution is to use two synths and have each set to the sounds you want. MANY musicians rack up two synths just for this purpose.

Check if headphone output is normal... sometimes the headphone jack switch fails and doesn't send to speakers when headphones are unplugged.

Simple way is MIDI out from Juno to MIDI in on MPC, then (depending on how you want to work), connect MIDI out from MPC to the in on the Juno. If you do this you MUST turn local control off on the Juno or else you'll get double triggers (internal + msg in from MPC). Now to record sequences on MPC , set MIDI to as track in setup window (on the 2500, this is accessed by pressing MODE then pad 9, then press button under the corresponding tab [on LCD]) then set your MIDI channel by port, meaning if your MIDI cable is physically connected to out A, in your LCD in bottom right corner it will show as follows: 1A. This indicates you are transmitting on MIDI channel 1; port A. Remember, MIDI IS NOT AUDIO!!!!! Since the Juno is a synth and not a workstation, all transport controls are handled by the MPC, that's pretty much it... Hope this helps a little, enjoy!

P.S. Go to mpc-forum.com its THE sh**! They also have links for their e-book I have one for the 2500 and its awesome!!!

The schematics I found for the Juno D do not show any battery.

The vibration (mechanical) is probably either bouncing foreign material around that shorts something OR flexs circuit board that has crack in it causing intermittent contact.

You need to open the unit and find the exact cause since if it is foreign material, for instance a paper clip, that can do permanent damage if it gets in the wrong place... A cracked circuit board or loose connector needs repair.

Try asking someone on the forum here:http://www.vintagesynth.com/roland/xp60.php

Here is the link you need but pay absolute attention to the Please note section in each case as the Juno D LE and the original Juno D are different. If you install the wrong update you will have problems with the keyboard working at all.

Your key contacts are dirty. Disassemble and clean both the circuit traces and the conductive rubber pills with ONLY 99% isoprophyl alcohol and QTips.

The contaacts are in pais which allows for measuring key velocity. When contacts are dirty, this affects the loudness.

Plug audio cables into the L/mono and R jacks on the back to connect to your amp stereo input.