Top 20 Mackie MR5 MR5 Reference Monitor Questions & Answers

If there was no signal going through them, they shoulldn't overheat. However, if while they were on the AC line had a power surge, it's possible it took them out. It's time for the repair shop to see what's up.

It seems likely that the pot (volume control) is dirty. with a slider you can normally get fluid down the side of the knob, your's is a rotary control and you sometimes can do it round the shaft of the pot but more often have to spray it in where the connections go into the pot. You'll need some contact cleaner spray which you can get online or from an electronics store, get it onto the pot track and then take the pot to each end of its travel a few times, this'll probably sort it out until next time. If you're taking it apart it might be worth just getting a new and better pot and soldering that in if you are hand with a soldering iron. The ones in Mackies nowdays are pretty sh1t.

Check the input level. Sounds like the signal is being clipped.

Sound like either the crossover or the driver has blown or, if you're lucky there is a loose connection internally if you have only checked external connections.

Swap speakers to find if the problem is the speaker. If the problem follows the speaker it will require repairing.

try hooking headphones to the output and see if the crackling is still there.

then, try it with the speakers, at a lower computer voume level and higher speaker volume level. perhaps the headphone output is too loud and distorting in the speaker inputs.

Check for a defect on the solo switch. The rude lights when ANY solo is on. Sometimes the switches stick mechanically and don't fully come up.

IF that speaker runs noticeably hotter than the other channel speaker, you need to take it to an authorized repair center. Your monitors are apparently active types, so unless you are a trained audio technician, you should refer service to the pros. Apparently, the problem is in one of the power amplifiers in the affected monitor.

Forst thing is to put a known signal into the speakers, say from a CD recorder to isolate a possible mixer or other source being marginal.

If the sound is still bad, verify that your volume settings are reasonable.

DO NOT crank the gain on these speakers full and then throttle the signal to them as that cause poor signal-to-noise ratio.

If you have driven these speakers very hard (these are only INTENDED for lower level monitoring within the engineer's booth), you MAY have damaged the speakers. It htat case, repair will be necessary.

Try to determine if the lows or highs or both are bad sounding.

These parts can be ovtained directly from Mackie. Please call them and have both the model number and serial number of the MR5. There are differences sometimes in the "runs" which use different actual speaker drivers. having the serial number will insure that you get the proper replacement driver.

You can locate a service center here:

http://www.mackie.com/scripts/service_centers/search.asp

Dan

I would contact Mackie and see what they say. The MR5 is already protected internally by the built in amplifier circuitry as far as I know.They can be reached here:http://www.mackie.com/support/index.html

First thing is to run a known signal from a simple device like a small CD player to verify the problem.

If these are driven from a mixer, the EQ could be set to kill the highs.

Assuming it isn, something simple like an EQ setting, probably the units will have to be serviced. I know you would already have checked the EQ on the back of these things as a first step.

Remember to ALWAYS power these from the same source as the devices connected to them to avoid ground loops and damage.

Supersonic feedback can fry these. Oscillations higher pitch than you can hear can put too much power into the tweeters of these.

The woofer would only blow if it was overloaded with too much signal. The common cause of this connecting a speaker of lower power than the amp or ohms than it. The simple way to cut out rumble is at the amp by reducing the bass, however most amps will cut all the bass and not what you want. Another way is a filter designed to cutt bass or low sounds. However your best bet is to use a Graphic Equalizer to control the tone, most have a 31khz control which will cutt the rumble you describe, but keep the wanted bass sound.

My best advice to you is to get your stands where I get mine - on eBay. They usually have a great selection of stands, tripods (although I personally would not put my nice Mackie reference monitors on tripods - too unstable).

Also, you will most likely find them for quite a lot less on eBay.

However, I believe Musiciansfriend.com (my favorite web site) may be having a fall sale very soon, or end of summer sale, and they have been known to reduce their prices heavily on things like stands, sound reinforcement, and other accessories during a big sale.

If FixYa sold such things, I wouldn't be sending you anywhere off site, but since you cant get them through us, I am giving you my absolute number 1 and number 2 choices that should solve your problem well.

If looking on eBay, be sure to measure your monitors, or get the information from the literature that came with the monitors. It's bit easier on Musiciansfriend.com, and here is a link to the stands they havce available there:

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/navigation?q=monitor+stand

Another option is monitor wall mounts, as we have to two of four reference monitors in our home studio wall-mounted, and it's great getting them out of the way and not taking up floor space or valuable desk space.

I hope whatever decision you make will be one you are happy with.

Thank you for using FixYa.

You should order an exact replacement from Mackie since this is a reference monitor.

Consider putting a limiter or fuse in series to protect the speakers if this was due to overdriving it.

If it is under warranty, make use of the warranty immediately.

If it is out of warranty it comes down to whether you are adept at electronics.

The cause can be a blown speaker, or something electronic.

The electronic cause would LIKELY be a problem with the input filter caps that cause the voltage to "collapse" under higher load OR a bad power amplifier transistor or chip.

In any case, test equipment will be required to solve the problem.

Hi there. Search "top hat". There are 2 different depths. Compare measurements to space available in and on the enclosure where you plan to install it. (bottom)
Thanks
Paul

Contact Mackie direct. They will know which component is failing. Link to the company for one of their powered speakers.

Thump215 15" 1400W Powered Loudspeaker

Mackie https://mackie.com > loudspeakers > thump-series-2022 The Mackie Thump215 15" 1400W Powered Loudspeaker brings the bass for DJs, venues, bands, and more and features a feedback eliminator and music ducking. //

If your Mackie SR1530 is powering on but you're not getting any sound, there could be a number of potential causes. Here are a few things you can try to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Check your connections: Make sure that all cables are properly connected and securely plugged in. Check both the cables going into the speaker and the cables that are connected to your audio source.
2. Check your audio source: Make sure that your audio source is turned on and properly connected. Try connecting a different audio source to the speaker to rule out issues with the source.
3. Check the volume levels: Make sure that the volume on both your audio source and the speaker are turned up. Try turning up the volume to see if you can hear anything.
4. Check the input settings: Make sure that the input settings on the speaker are correct. For example, if you are using an XLR cable, make sure that the input on the speaker is set to XLR.
5. Test the speaker with a different audio source: If you have access to another audio source, try connecting it to the speaker to see if you can get any sound.

If none of these troubleshooting steps work, there may be an issue with the speaker itself. It may be a good idea to contact Mackie customer support or a qualified audio technician for further assistance.