Electric Superwinch 12 Volt DC Winch - 8500-Lb. Capacity, Model# 1585200D - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Is it slipping or stalling?

Is there a load switch on winch

The 1585202 winch is capable of pulling 8500 pounds when provided adequate DC power. With no load (winding up slack the cable) the motor requires 84 amps and winds at 18 feet / second. When fully loaded (8500 pounds), the motor requires in excess of 320 amps and winds at 3.5 feet / second. That's an awfully large amount of current and it will need heavy duty power supply cables to work without overheating or melting insulation. I suspect your 1585200 is the same model with same electrical requirements, but did not include a fairlead, mounting plate, etc..Superwinch has wiring kit #2007 for front mount (5 foot cables) and #2008 for trailer mounts (25 foot cables) and can simplify the installation with other accessories as well. They're a U.S. company and can be contacted them directly:Superwinch, LLC 359 Lake Road Dayville, CT 06241 US Ph: 860-928-7787 F: 860-928-1143www.superwinch.com

You may wanna try this site to help get you on the right track with your Super Wench , I think you will find it most helpful . http://www.stu-offroad.com/recovery/winch/warn-1.htm

Electrician by Trade

Check out this schematic. Remember all you're doing is reversing polarity to the motor.

may have ice in gears or check power connections and switch may have gone bad--radical approach take a torch low flame and warm the drum and cable not trying to get red hot just to warm up drum if ice in gears will thaw

This is going to be tricky. Kango was bought out by Milwaukee tools and that model is not available. The springs you are going to need to measure with a caliper for length, width and diameter of the wire. Compression specs becomes an issue. http://www.leespring.com/browse_catalog.asp?springType=C&partNum=LHL*&xsearch=Search The seal is the least of your worries because you can get sheet gasket material or use silicon gasket material in a tube. The brushes are another issue. https://www.repcoinc.com/brushes/

http://locator.cummins.com/GlobalLocator/homeScreen.action?request_locale=en_US

Check the brushes first, they're the easiest and most likely cause of your problems. New tools are being equipped with brushes that have non-conductive pins in them that pop out when the brushes wear down so the armature doesn't get damaged. Next, do continuity checks to see if power is geting to and through the switch. Many cords get internal breaks at or near the boot where they go into the tool from frequent bending or at he plug end from being unplugged by pulling on the cord and not he end peice. If the cord is good, check that power is going through the switch.

A 30 amp circuit breaker or fuse is NOT a typical size used for the protection of convenience outlets & general lighting circuits, especially in a residential setting. In fact the National Electrical Code (NEC) prohibits anything larger than a 20 amp breaker to protect a #12 copper wire and and a 15 amp breaker to protect a #14 copper wire. These are the size wires used to supply nearly all outlet and lighting loads in a residence. It's not clear to me from your question if this 30 amp breaker is a double pole type that is providing power to a second, smaller circuit breaker panel and these outlets are fed from it. This would be in line with what the NEC would allow and what I suspect is the situation. I'm only going to get into this a minimal amount as more information is needed for me to be able talk intelligently about it.I would shut off the loads that are connected to the 30 amp breaker. If that is a panel, I would shut off all the circuit breakers in it, then turn onn the 30 amp breaker. If it trips, then there is a problem between the 30 amp breaker and the panel. You may have connected line cables to ground or neutral - and vice-versa. Can you please explain in as much detail as possible what is connected to the 30 amp breaker? Is it a single pole (120 volts) or double pole (240 volts) circuit? What size wires are connect to the breaker terminal(s) What type of cable is connected to it? How many wires are in the cable assembly or pipes? What is the size of wires? If they feeds a second, smaller breaker panel, where do the wires terminate - into lugs on the top or bottom of the panel or terminals of a circuit breaker? What happened or changed to cause this circuit breaker to start tripping? Is this part of a new installation - and if so, was the wiring done by an electrician? Was the work inspected?Please try to answer as many questions as possible. The more information you can provide will help me get you the best answer.

To use clamp meter, you must be able to clamp jaws around one of the two load wires (not both at once). Easy place to do this is at the unit if cover is off, find one of the wires supplying power to compessor while running and read meter (set meter to ac). You can clamp meter to one of the lines going to fan motor to determine its draw. Another place would be at the plug. Cut power to plug and pull out the receptical exposing wires (not easy because wires are stiff and if aluminum, could be brittle, could be part of the problem if receptical plug is warm). Look for signs of heating due to loose connections. Temp connect unit to receptical and clamp meter to one leg. Turn on the breaker to plug and watch meter for good while to see if draw incrases over time. Use caution when working with electricity. Good luck and think safe.

How are you getting this measurement? From the ".2" portion I'm going to assume that you're using a digital voltmeter, which is notorious for giving flaky readings in inexperienced hands (no offense). The second question to help sort out your problem is where are you getting this measurement from? In other words... from an outlet? Across which "pins", and have you tried more than one outlet, ideally that are on two different circuit breakers? Home wiring can't give you 62.2 volts without a significant problem, probably a bad connection but that's fairly unlikely. It would be helpful to know what caused you to think there's a voltage problem in the first place, since there may be another explanation... let me know and I'll try to point you in the right direction.

Without a more clear discription of your electrical problem , my advice to you would be to get a qualified electrician to come in and troubleshoot your home immediately . When lights begin dimming and receptacles aren't working properly , there is some serious issues that need to be addressed ASAP ! Anything could be going on from a simple breaker issue to possibly an overload on a circuit , which could lead to more serious problems ( FIRE ) .

Hi,

Yes... you have it right... the way you are describing it will work just like you want it too...the nuerals (whites) will al be tied together and the blacks will be broken by the switching....just what you want...

heatman101

It refers to arc-fault protection. If you google arc-fault you will get many hits including some of the standard sites such as: http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/afcifac8.PDF http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arc-fault_circuit_interrupter http://www.nfpa.org/assets/files/PDF/Electric/Arc-Fault_Circuit_Interrupters.pdf You will want to check with your local building department or inspectors to see if they have adopted the code revisions that require them or not but even if the haven

Number 2 alu it is good for 90 amps

I believe it is a mobile product, tan in color

This is an indication that the hammer needs service. When you take the barrel off you will see the striker. There is a piston inside the striker, when the rubber rings on the piston wear out you have the problem you describe. time to replace the motor brushes clean and regressed, make sure to use the correct grease, Check the backlash on ring and pinions. Don't put too much grease on the piston or it will stick and not strike. Good luck I forgot to ask which version. This is for the uk atlas coco, silver with blue or red handle

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