20 Most Recent Fisher and Paykel SmartLoad DG62T27G Dryer Questions & Answers

Check your drum rollers, sounds like they need oiling

Hi,

If your dryer is not drying like it once did or if you just have nottaken the time to give yourself a clean dryer in a long time then youneed to do that. At least once a year the dryer cleaning should takeplace. Lint build up in the dryer duct is one of the main causesfor your dryer to fail.

Here is the rest of this tip about DryerMaintenance

heatman101

Hi tuhaika...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...

It will help you determine what is happening there...

Dryer Repair Squeaks, Grinding, Clicking and Knocking Noise


heatman101

Asker's Testimonial "That answer was very informative - thank you fortaking the time to educate me. " - teresa241964

Many driers have a belt drive drum. This might squeal if is slipping. Check the drum turns easily and the belt is adjusted correctly.

Hi jay j holmes...

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE STARTING ANY REPAIRS
Your problem sounds like drum rollers have flat spots on them or in need of lubrication, or maybe your drum belt has slipped off of the idler arm pulley.

Note: This method works with most front loading machines.

Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer if you have to.
Note: Some tops hinge and tilt backwards so they do not have to be removed and the electrical console with stay with the lid.
Also remove the lint filter and the screws holding the lint filter housing in place.
Be REAL CAREFUL not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the dryer by removing two screws located on either side of the top of the dryer housing and unplug the door switch.
This will expose the drum and belt. Remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm pulley and motor.Now is a good time to replace the front felt seal on the drum if it needs to be replaced. Be sure to use a good grade of weatherproof cement on the seal to glue it to the drum, sometimes the glue is furnished with the seal.
Now is also a good time to check the belt to see if it has slipped off of the idler arm pulley and also to check the belt condition for wear.
Be sure to note the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt.
Check your drum rollers for flat spots or wear, if they have flat spots they will make a thumping type of noise or if there is too much wear on them replace them.
If the drum rollers don't have flat spots or wear on them then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade of machine oil such as 3 in One oil, or a light lubricant like Vasoline.
Reassemble the dryer.
Plug back into your electrical receptical.
This should solve your noise problem.
This is a FREE answer, Please take time to rate me

first check to make sure you have 220 to 240 volts at the dryer,if not it wont heat but the drum will turn,just trip the breaker or check fuses (2) of them normally 30 amp fuses,then you need to locate the heater box in the lower area and check the 2 heating elements(especially for overheating and the coils sagged and touched each other and burned out),if one is bad both will need to be replaced,if these are ok then there are 2 thermostats on the heater housing one of these has a red re-set button try resetting thisif it holds great,if not check for more trapped lint in the lint bucket,if clean you may need to replace the 2 thermostats as they come as a pair now

Hi.


If the machine gets hot near to the base even when cycle is off, that usually means that the igniter and flame is coming on, probably because of a contact or because of a defective control board.

If the problem instead is at one side, far from burner (that is what I understood), then there is a short circuit that is causing the heath.

In both situations the dryer must be taken apart. If heat comes from the burner, there may be also lint making things worse. Here a diagram of the base with heater.

Here all parts and diagrams for this appliance.

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE STARTING ANY REPAIRS
Your problem sounds like drum rollers have flat spots on them or in need of lubrication, or maybe your drum belt has slipped off of the idler arm pulley.

Note: This method works with most front loading machines.

Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer.
Note: Some tops hinge and tilt backwards so they do not have to be removed and the electrical console with stay with the lid.
Also remove the lint filter and the screws holding the lint filter housing in place.
Be REAL CAREFUL not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the dryer. This will expose the drum and belt. Remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm pulley and motor.Now is a good time to replace the front felt seal on the drum if it needs to be replaced. Be sure to use a good grade of weatherproof cement on the seal to glue it to the drum, sometimes the glue is furnished with the seal.
Now is also a good time to check the belt to see if it has slipped off of the idler arm pulley and also to check the belt condition for wear.
Be sure to note the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt.
Check your drum rollers for flat spots or wear, if they have flat spots they will make a thumping type of noise or if there is too much wear on them replace them.
If the drum rollers don't have flat spots or wear on them then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade of machine oil such as 3inOne oil. Reassemble the dryer, plug back in. This should solve your noise problem.

This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Hello,

The video below explains how to access and repair a fisher paykel dryer.

http://www.appliancerepairlesson.com/



">

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101

Hi,
There can be many reasons why your dryer will not turn...

This tip that I wrote will help you to figure out what is happening...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4422207-dryer_repair_dryer_not_turning

Dryer Repair ? The dryer will not start
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4460438-dryer_repair_dryer_will_not_start


heatman101

You may have bad timer or bad motor windings ? does it shut off after 20 minutes and can u start it back up right away? if not start fast then bad motor windings. try using a diff dry setting and see if it does same thing you may need to check the cycling thermostat too

cycling thermosta

Dryer runs then shuts down wont start up for an hour: or 20 minutes Bad motor windings also check for a b ad cycling thermostat

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast: Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity it should show OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating. The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale at 20K ohms. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12. (1200) ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run, the heater should not heat in order not to create a fire but if the motor is not running, and the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater. Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?) Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Read more : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVTBrGMql7g http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor. GOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMP7BW1lLs4

The timer: Located in the control console of the dryer the timer consists of a small motor connected to a series of gears that rotate cams, which turn electric contacts off and on inside the timer. The timer contacts control the dryer motor as well as the heat circuit and the timer motor itself. A defective timer motor or a defect in the timer's electrical contacts can cause the timer motor to fail and the timer will need to be replaced. The contacts can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made when the dryer is unplugged. Another test u can do is observe by eyesight and see does the timer advance or is it stuck on one cycle? 1. On gas and electric dryers that have an "Auto Dry" cycle, the cycling thermostat is often used to advance the timer as well regulate the drum temperature. Essentially, thermostat will alternately turn on the heat source or the timer motor when the temperature has been satisfied. To check this thermostat, you will have to check for power to the timer motor with a multi-meter, during a cycle. This is a live voltage test and caution should be used. 2. Some dryers will use a cool down thermostat to tumble the clothes without heat, at the end of the dry cycle. Power is routed through this thermostat to the drive motor to keep it running until the drum temperature has dropped to a specific temperature. If this thermostat fails it can cause the drum to turn indefinitely or until the door is opened. You can check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made with the power removed from the dryer. Lastly check the moister sensor for OHMS according to ur schematic as it must show a certain amount of ohms as per ur unit. When unit has been on short while Electric dryer no start does nothing Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhVUEhngZMg

DRYER MAKES NOISES. A loose or worn BELT can make funny noises Or the idler pulley that puts tension on the dryer drum drive belt could be worn out. If the pulley is bad we recommend also replacing the belt. The glides on drum worn and making metal to metal contact. The drum slides or glides support the front of the drum. As the drum rotates over the years, the glides wear out and then the dryer makes noise. Replace all of the glides as a set if they are worn out. CHECK FOR LOOSE BELLOES inside the drum Sometimes an item can get stuck inbetween the drum and the housing and scrape and grind making funny noises, things like coins, bra wire, nails, hair pins, etc sometimes u can just remove the cabinet and observe by turning the drum by hand or looking for scratch or scrape marks on housing. The blower: Clumps of lint, socks, and other small articles of clothing can get past the lint filter and into the blower wheel. If the dryer makes noise, and the noise seems to be at a very fast pace, there might be something caught in the blower wheel. In addition, the blower wheel sleeve might be worn out, allowing the blower wheel to wobble on the motor shaft. If this happens, replace the blower wheel. The bearings: The drum bearing supports the rear of the dryer drum. If the dryer makes noise this bearing might be worn out. Replace the bearing if it is worn out. Do not lubricate the bearing, the lubrication will attract lint and dirt and accelerate the wearing process. The bearings TEST by moving drum by hand u may be able to feel loose or rough movement. And listen to sounds when turning it. The drum rollers or castors: It is very common for dryer drum rollers to wear out. If the dryer makes noise, particularly a loud rumbling noise, one or more of the rollers may be worn out. After removing the drum from the dryer, inspect the rollers. Check for cracks, dryness, or damage and not engaging drum properly. Sometimes u can use high density LITHIUM BASE gear grease to re oil/grease them. GOD IS GOOD !!!!

ELECTRICDryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast: Checkyour venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuityit should showOHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defectiveor has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating. The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter(VOM)set to the RX1 scaleat 20K ohms. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12. (1200)ohms.If the reading is higherohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,OR?you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposedto be if the motor does not run, the heater should not heat in order not to createafire but ifthe motor is not running,andthe heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater. Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. In somedryer'sthecontrol panel relies on athermistorrather than aCYCLING thermostatto regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when thethermistorindicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drumthis is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?) Lastly check your moister sensor.( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shutdown early and clothesare still wet. Test with a meterat room temperatureand it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run timein the automatic moisture sensing cyclebut it will not affect the heatingof the dryer or the timed cycle.Which are reflected by the thermostats. Read more : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVTBrGMql7g http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor. GOD IS So GOOD !!!!AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE