GE GSS20IEPWW / GSS20IEPCC Side by Side Refrigerator - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

the heating fan which turns on and off for defrosting is eathier stuck and wont start to defrost fast enough its a 35 part if you can do it your self when this happens its the defrost elment is going out

Repairing sealed system GE side by side

This problem is due to plugged defrost drain line..Click on the link below(i have already solved this problem).Note that this is generic problem with refrigiratorsand the troubleshooting procedure is same for any model or brand..
http://www.fixya.com/support/t226483-kenmore_50222000_help_me_please

Yes it will be needed to prevent damage to either the new fan motor or the motherboard. These models are costly and better avoided if possible to replace the refrigerator with a model that does not have electronic control parts, Sea Breeze

You need to replace the start relay on the compressor. Here is a link to the part you need.

did you unplug it it could be that the freezeer tubing is fozen need to unplug it off and if you dont open the door leave it off so it can defrost for 12-24 hrs then plug it in just dont open the door so your food could be safe after that i had the same proble again unplug leave off for 12 to 24 hour best at noght before you go to bed then replug it will take a few owers to get cold again but that schould work

replace the ptc/overload/relay on the side of the compressor,it merely unplug from the compressor

The first thing you want to do is open the freezer and see if the fan inside there is running. The reason is the freezer cools the refrigerator side by circulating air from the freezer. If the fan is running then your problem is one or more parts of the defrost system is malfunctioned and in return your problem arises. There are three parts to the system, the defrost timer or in some cases control board, defrost thermostat also known as a bi-metal, and the defrost heater. The defrost system is set up to operate as so. The defrost timer or control board will turn the machine off, in some cases every 8 hours, some 12. During this time period the defrost heaters, located behind the freezer wall and rest underneath the evaporator, yet wires to them run up the side of it, are energized and emit heat that raises upward to melt the ice that has formed on the evaporator coils. The bi-metal or defrost thermostat is at the top of the evaporator. When the heat from the heater starts to reach the bi-metal, it breaks the circuit turning the heater off. The whole purpose of this is because the freezer cool the refridgerator side by drawing air across the coils and blowing to the other side via the evap fan motor. In my opinion, if you change one part of the defrost system change them all because usually when one part fails another will follow, so save yourself the time and the food loss, the cost difference is minute. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

NOT VERY CLEAR.assuming only lights are on.is there any more noises.ie.-fan noise motor noise.elaborate.ali

Note: Always make sure your filter is current if you have one. Not doing so will cause water to not despence properly Pull the machine out and remove the lower back cover. Locate the water valve. With the water turned on and connected remove the 5/16" water line (the bigger one) and then have someone else press the water in the door. If the cylinoid is operating correctly it should spray water out.If so, you just verified that the valve and electrical portions are working properly and either the filter is bad or the resevoir, , located inside the lower refrigerator side is frozen. If no water comes out but the valve vibrates, then the valve is bad. If no water and no vibration, continue reading.With the machine plugged in but the wires that go to the valve for the dispenser off take a volt meter and place a lead to each wire and have someone press the panel in the door as if getting water. The reading should go from 0 to around 115-120 a/c.If your not getting electricity down there at anytime than thje door switch is bad. Testing the ice maker: As far as the smaller line (1/4") you have to manually advance the ice maker and wait for it to call for water with the 1/4" line disconnected from the valve. You can do this by getting a jumper wire, removing the cover of icemaker, which you jsut grab and pull off, and using the jumper wire insert one end of the wire into the cirle marked m and the other in the cicle marked n. Leave there until you hear a click and sometimes see a little spark behind the modular head wheel. Also if you see ice in the maker that hasn't dumper and the teeth of the icemaker are facing any direction other than two o clock position, the icemaker is bad. Also check the fill tube to be sure the no ice is blocking water from coming in. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

If the thermostat clicks and nothing happens.

Check and make sure you are getting water to the icemaker, If sothe lines may be frozen. You can thaw them with a hair drywe.

If your not getting any power to the unit and the breaker is not not tripped, you will need to replace the control board located on the rear of the refrigerator. Here is a link to the part you need. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/ge-main-control-board-assembly-item-number-ap4436216.aspx

:
Hi!
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
It does a lot of clicking (trying to start over and over again)
If thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
I use part no ERP410 POWER START RELAY, CAPACITOR AND OVERLOAD all in one. (110 v)

If you still have trouble Go Here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

Thank you for using fixya
Leo Ponder
PLEASE VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

Most of these units will have a filter in the refrigerator side in the upper right corner. If someone removed it and maybe couldn't afford a new one at the time they could have used the bypass plug. It will just be a flat 3-4" white handle that you must twist out counterclockwise. Hope this helps.

Most ice makers have a control arm that raises and lowers to check for a full condition. It usually raises during the dump cycle and lowers during the fill cyle. If it is unable to lower (because the bin in full) it should shut off the fill cycle. If that function is not working, then if you move that control arm to the fully raised position, it should shut of the fill cycle, until you manually lower it again.

If there is no frost on the rear wall , inside the freezer , then the main control board is bad . This board , is located behind the refrig , behind an 8 " X 10 " panel . The part number is WR55X10656 . This board , probably has a burnt compressor module , keeping the compressor from running . The board is easily replaceable .

I have the GSS manual and several videos that show how to precisely check the ice box HERE

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Empty the freezer. Unplug the fridge. Take all the shelves and drawer out of the freezer. Remove the lightbulb cover and bulb. Take out the screws that hold the panel on the back of the freezer wall. Slide the panel up slightly to clear the thermistor housing (a small 'bump' on the bottom left side) and remove the panel pulling from the left side forward. The defrost heater is on the bottom of the coils held on by two screws, and the thermostat is clipped on to the top coil and has pink and blue (sometimes orange) wires going to it. Don't worry if the wire colors on the new one are not the same. Unclip the thermostat and cut the wires, leaving yourself enough wire to strip them back and connect them with the new ones. Use crimp connectors or wire nuts (for wet applications) and then clip the thermostat back on. To replace the defrost heater, remove the two screws and disconnect the wires. The new defroster might have both wires on one side, rather than one on each side. That's okay, just move the wire on the left over to the right along side the other wire, and connect. Put everything back together, and plug back in.

your mother board is acting up you will need to find the model number its in the ref. towards the top on the right or left.I saw this once before and it blew my mind to until I talked to tech line.