20 Most Recent GE Profile 24.7 cu. ft. Top Freezer No-Frost Refrigerator TBX25PABWW Questions & Answers

Anytime you have ice buildup in back of freezer it indicates that the auto defrost mechanism is not working. Check the defrost timer, heater element, defrost thermostat for proper operation.

clean or replace the water tubing from the ice maker, mine had a bit of dirt from the water area. Did this and it worked fine.

Hello,

This a link to Ge's diminsion guide for that model# http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=982440015.PDF

Hello,

Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Useing a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section . Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired togather and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired togather . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .

Hoping this will help

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about the reasons why ice makers do not work.

Ice Maker Problems and Ice Maker Troubleshooting

heatman101


vzCgser

let me guess, and water is dripping into the refrigerator? Sometimes it is necessary to replace that drain trough from underneath / behind the evaporator coil. But, there is a more likely problem. If you pull your refrigerator out from the wall, you will see a black 1/2" tube coming up from behind the machine compartment cover. at the top of this tube is a black, drain diverter, which has an outline in the mold similar to the elbow underneath your kitchen/batroom sink. 90% of the time this diverter gets clogged with gunk, preventing the water from going down that 1/2' tube to the pan under fridge, instead, it drips down the back wall of your refrigerator, pools under the crisper drawers.

To see if this is your likely problem, while holding the diverter firmly against the back wall of the refrigerator, you dont want to damage the plastic "hooks" that hold it firmly against the back wall...holding that diverter, grab the middle of the 1/2" tube, or to prevent some splashing of yucky water, grab it closer to the diverter and bend the tube towards its middle, while pulling the tube out of the bottom of the diverter, you wont have much, if any water coming out, maybe an ounce or two. leave the tube as it is. Now slowly rotate the diverter clockwise, less than a quarter turn, you will feel it loosen when the "hooks" have cleared the tabs in the opening. take this diverter to the kitchen sink, and pour some water into the large hole, does the water come out the bottom, where it would normally feed into the 1/2" tube? No? thought so. keep rinsing and shaking the diverter, you will see all kinds of gunk come out, shake it REALLY good, tap it against the sink, loosen up everything. go back to the fridge, look up into that hole, pull out any gunk you see in there, put the diverter in the same position it was when it released, turn it back counter clockwise, while holding it in place, put the 1/2" tube into it, and voila.

however, if you didnt notice any gunk in diverter, and water went through before cleaning it out, then it is possible, that the rust in the drian trough has a SMALL hole, which is bypassing the plastic tube that feeds water into the diverter, thereby dripping into the fridge, THEN you will have to have your trough replaced, BUT, because of the process required to remove and replace that trough, you could cause serious damage, and lots of money to fix, and any company shouldnt charge you more than around $150 to do that.Thats what I would charge you.

The ice tray arm is mechanical. It is pushed up by the ice cubes. Try bending the arm down so it makes contact with the ice cubes sooner and gets pushed up sooner when it reaches up posistion it should stop.

That's usually mounts inside the compressor. It could still last awhile so if you can put up with the noise just wait for it to quit before replacing the compressor or getting a new fridge.

sounds like a problem with defrost drainage system. would need model #. older GE refs had problem with rust holes in drain trough. how old is it? do you see any rust on back wall of ref? newer refs had problem with drain hole freezing shut and heat probe had to be installed to prevent it from freezing shut.

To remove the ice tray from your GE refrigerator model GFSF6KEX, follow these steps: Empty the Ice: Before removing the ice tray, empty it of any ice cubes. This will make it easier to handle. Locate the Ice Tray: The ice tray is typically located in the freezer compartment, usually near the ice dispenser or ice maker. Grasp the Bottom Edge: Stand in front of the freezer and open the door. Grasp the bottom edge of the ice tray on the sides. Be cautious not to place your fingers near the opening at the bottom front part of the bucket where the crusher blades are located. Lift Up the Front: Lift up on the front of the ice tray so that it clears the stops on the ice bucket rail. Pull the Tray Forward: Pull the ice tray forward and out of the freezer compartment. Reinstalling the Tray: To reinstall the ice tray, follow these steps: Line up the flange pieces on the sides of the tray with the channels in the ice bucket rails. As you push the ice tray all the way back, lift the front of the tray so that it clears the stops on the front of the ice bucket rails. Verify that the tray is properly inserted by pulling it forward. It should hit the stops on the rail and not come out. If it does, push the tray further back. Check for Misalignment: If you're unable to push the ice tray all the way back, it might be due to a misalignment between the back of the auger (located in the tray) and the prongs on the auger motor (mounted in the back freezer wall). To fix this: Remove the ice tray. Close the freezer door. Press the dispenser for cubed or crushed ice; you should hear a snap. Open the door again and reinstall the ice tray. Remember to handle the ice tray carefully, especially if it's full of ice.

See troubleshooting tips on page 26 for help GE PYE22KYNFS user manual (English - 98 pages) (manuals.co.uk)

Page 9 of the manual, back upper right corner https://products-salsify.geappliances.com/image/upload/s--dJG7xmc1--/85553cf15b3719905b992ef19e49bbcc339c121d.pdf All the specs in the maker page Water Filtration GE Water Filtration MWFP https://appliances.monogram.com/us/specs/ZISW360DM#specifications-and-files ..

Question edited for a lot more clarity. Question moved from GE Ranges to GE Fridges. Sabbath Mode stays on until you turn it off. Press and hold the Lock and Light button simultaneously for 3 seconds to enter and exit the Sabbath Mode.

Bottom Freezer Refrigerator - Setting Sabbath Mode

GE Appliances https://products.geappliances.com > appliance > gea-supp...

Explanation of the Sabbath Mode Feature

GE Appliances https://products.geappliances.com > appliance > gea-su... Refrigerators with a Sabbath Mode feature puts the refrigerator in a timed defrost mode. It also turns off the icemaker, dispenser, and control touch screens. ..