20 Most Recent GE Profile 26.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator with Dispenser TFX27PRBWW - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Most likely the=> Defrost Heater Assembly WR51X10055 and High Limit Thermostat WR50X10069 need to be replaced. Heater is burned out. High Limit Thermostat WR50X10069 Defrost Heater Assembly WR51X10055 Appliance 911 Sea Breeze

First, pull out the ice bin and eyeball the ice maker device behind it. See if the switch is turned on and the green light is lit. If it's blinking, that indicates "ice stuck in tray" and you'll have to take it out and thaw the whole contraption out. It's not that hard: unplug the giant molex connector on the right side and use a small hex wrench to unscrew the obvious screw holding it to the left side of the freezer wall. Then you can firmly pull the device up and out until it pops free from the notches where it sits in the back. If there's ice stuck in the device, or if it's just not filling properly, let it sit out for a few hours until it warms up. Depending on the humidity conditions in your freezer, something could have frosted over.Check the swing arm on the bottom of the device. Despite the appearance as a bit of useless plastic, it has a magnet attached to an arm inside the main ice maker housing which allows the maker to tell if the arm is extended or pushed part ways in. Ice being make and pushed into the bucket depresses the swing arm when it falls and the arm returns to the extended position via a small spring mounted between it and the unit unless the ice maker is full. This spring has a habit of popping out of a tiny hole and not providing the force needed for the arm to return to "make more ice" position. Check that it pushes back at you if you depress it. Hopefully one of these items you've checked wasn't working because they're all easy fixes. Reassemble and add it back to the freezer, making sure that the water dispenser in the back of the freezer leads INTO the ice maker, not BELOW it. This would cause a mess. Make sure the thing is plugged in again, and the green light is back on. If you're impatient about waiting for another ice cycle to start, depress the swing arm three times in a row. This should tell the ice maker to immediately dispense water and start a new cycle.

We replaced the water line to the refriderature. It was plugged by a coroded copper sleve.

Eight_angels, yes such hammer noise is common and it is easy to fix! That hammer noise will eventually damage your plumbing unless fixed, I use an easy to install Sioux Chief 660-GTR1 surge suppressor with an air filled surge absorber to fix the problem, usually costing around $12. See: http://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Chief-660-GTR1-Mini-Rester-Water-Hammer-Arrestor-3-8-O-D-Compression-x-3-8-O-D-Female-Compression-Tee-Lead-Free?gclid=Cj0KEQjwi-moBRDL4Omf9d_LndMBEiQAQtFf88w0bq7JgwRWwZmtrRzhEd_MJQm4Wqh1kMeZa-QoAnoaAr4U8P8HAQ

Ice dispenser doesn't work

1. Dispenser control board

If the ice dispenser is not functioning at all the most likely cause is going to be the dispenser control board. The dispenser control board governs the major portion of the systematic functions of the dispenser and is less likely to be the issue if only certain components are malfunctioning. If the dispenser control board is at fault, it will need to be replaced.

1. Water inlet valve & low water pressure from house supply

If the ice dispenser on your refrigerator is not working properly, one of the first things to consider as an issue is the water pressure to your appliance. The ice dispenser cannot properly function with a psi less than 20. If psi is appropriate, proceed to replace the water inlet valve to correct the issue. You may also be dealing with low household water pressure. This low flow can be examined by using a water pressure test gauge. Once the household water pressure is resolved, you can double check your refrigerator connection to ensure it is now flowing properly and that the ice dispenser is functioning.

1. Water tube in door is frozen

If the ice dispenser is not working on your refrigerator, the issue could be a frozen water supply tube located in the door. Although this may be a tricky problem to locate, the first thing to do is find a connection point in the tube. After this has been found, attempt to blow air through the tube. If the air flows freely through the tube, it is not frozen and this is not the issue. If it does not, the tube is frozen and needs to be removed to thaw out. As it thaws, attempt to ascertain why it froze and correct the positioning of the tubing to prevent the issue from occurring again in the future.

1. Dispenser switch

If the refrigerator ice dispenser is not working properly you could be dealing with a defective dispenser switch. Activated by the dispenser actuator, the switches are responsible for numerous actions including ice cube disbursement, type of ice, and water controls. The switch can be tested using an ohm meter and should be replaced if it does not reveal continuity.

1. Door switch

If the refrigerator ice dispenser is not working, the functionality of the door switch can be inspected. This switch is responsible for turning on the light in the freezer and simultaneously turning off the ice dispenser when the freezer door is opened. If this switch malfunctions, it will show no continuity on the ohm meter and will require replacement. Ice maker not functioning or producing ice cubes

1. Check connections

Check all hose connections to ensure that water is being transmitted through your appliance and there is no frost build up.

1. Feeler arm

Double check to make sure your feeler arm is not stuck or that ice cubes are not blocking the feeler arm's motion to produce more ice.

1. Ice maker heater

The heater may be stuck on. The heater comes on for 1-2 minutes to break cubes free from mold. If the heater stays on too long ,the ice maker will get hot and stop making ice. Carefully feel around the ice maker mold; if it is hot to the touch, the heater is on. This indicates that the ice maker is jammed, and it is better to replace ice maker than to try and repair it.

1. Water inlet valve

The water valve supplying the ice maker is a key component of the ice-making system. When the ice maker calls for ice, its switch closes an electrical circuit and energizes the solenoid-operated water valve. This allows water to flow through the valve and into the ice cube tray. The water is frozen into cubes, and the cubes are dumped into the ice bin. When this part is not operating correctly, a repair/replacement part may be needed. Refrigerator Repair Help Troubleshooting and Parts

my parents have a ge refridgerator tfx27e that is not cooling as of this morning. we had repair place out and they said the compressor is bad. per his words, he tested it and said electric is going to the compressor, but when it tries to turn on, something inside is stopping it so it won't run, needs new compressor. the issue is, this is in a custom kitchen and the fridge has wood paneling on the front and matches everything nicely. i'm afraid a new fridge will never work with the panels made for this one? it it worth fixing? i'm also pretty handy, but the repair guy said it's a 5 hour job. advice? read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/558327-ge-refridgerator-tfx27e-not-cooling-bad-compressor-help.html#ixzz3pttwtbob http://forum.appliancepartspros.com

You may be hearing ice or water dripping on the defrost heater, which would be normal operation if the refrigerator is operating okay, otherwise.

Sounds like the wrong board. Also unplug the refrigerator if you put a new board in.

Add a in-line filter to the incoming water line behind the refrigerator.
Most have 1/4 inch compression fittings to adapt.

the button behind the pad is stuck,bad model number,if it's a side by side open the fridge door.look up on top and on right wall and you'll see a tag with model and serial number

check this video out. thats might help Your. Heater resistance should be around 30 ohm +-5

there could be several reasons the door is closing properly. first see if anything is blocking the way. is the bottom hinge raising and lowering as it opens and closes.

You may have to let the activator sit for a little more time to allow the ice auger to stop before pulling the glass away.

maybe check some need gas..

Ok, help me out here. Describe what you are calling a damper? That term usually applies to a vented room heater or furnace and the optional manual adjust to stop the chimney feed when out of season.

What reason would you need a "reset" button? In most cases, any appliance is generally "reset" to default operation conditions by unplugging the unit from the wall socket and then plugging it back in. If you're attempting to reset some other condition, like the defrost timer cycle, etc. then you need to be very direct and explicit in what you'd like to reset. In the meantime, here is a link to a REPAIR manual (not a home owners care and use guide) which may not be for your exact model, though may provide you with enough information to make a very educated "guess" as to what you need to find on your model. http://appliance911seabreeze.com/PSS26MSRSS.pdf Note that the images in the manual are mostly shown with the INTERIOR COVERS OFF, so it won't look like your refrigerator at all when you look at it -- don't freak out and just know they are showing it with the "guts" mostly exposed without showing you the completely "put together" look you'll see when you open your doors. Good luck and if this doesn't help at all, please post a more detailed description of your issue (why you think you need a reset in the first place, for example) and I'll do what I can to walk you through a DIY operation to fix your issue. (I am not an appliance service guy, I just happen to know a lot of stuff from having to do a lot of stuff myself on my own appliances -- being a trained radio technician and computer technician, I figure, "How hard can it be compared to Multi-Million dollar semiconductor manufacturing equipment?" (which I worked on for 18 years.) )

I am not sure that I can specifically address your question directly. I looked around a bit for a repair manual (not a homeowners manual or owners guide, because they don't show diagrams of the "guts" of the product, just how to clean and care and basic "doh!" type issues that can be solved by cleaning, dusting, leveling, etc. I suppose, without a direct question other than where the sensor bar is (without clear context for what you mean or why) this is the best I can do for you at the moment: Here is a general repair guide for most GE type refrigerators with diagrams and schematics of a basic (and perhaps not exactly looking like your unit) that can at least get you going in the right direction. I could not find a manual that specifically applied to your exact model. Go here: http://appliance911seabreeze.com/PSS26MSRSS.pdf Lastly, bear in mind that the majority of images in the manual are WITH THE INTERIOR COVERS REMOVED, so don't freak out and think, "OMG this ain't MY unit, it's useless!" Use it as a base to search for what you need on your refrigerator. In general, I caution you, if all you wish to do is clean it, then I have to ask, WHY? What's your issue? If you post a detailed question with a good description of what's actually going on that makes you ask about cleaning the sensor bar, I might be able to guide you more directly. In the meantime, use that repair manual I linked and good luck! Again, remember, it's not your model number only, it's a General Guide for most GE type refrigerators and could provide you valuable starting point information to answer your question for you via hands-on inspection and comparison. Please let me know if this helps or not and what your issue is exactly if this doesn't do the trick for you.

Check your compressor if overheating. Observe the running condition of the compressor. Check if your compressor is running. If compressor is running then you have a freon leakage or insufficient freon. If not check your thermostat if working properly. (Get a multi tester and check for continuity. at normal temperature the circuit should be closed) If thermostart is working properly then check your OLP(over load protector) which is attached to your compressor. it should be closed circuit.