20 Most Recent GE Profile 26.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator with Dispenser TFX27PRBWW - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Sometimes the plastic tube is the door freezes. If you remove the front grill at the base of the refrigerator you should see a tubing disconnect. these are fairly easy to disconnect either by unscrewing the plastic nut or pushing in on a ring around the tubing. if you disconnect this. just hit the water dispenser actuator for a very short time. if water comes out the tubing is frozen in the door and you will have to shut down the refrigerator for a while and let it defrost. if you don't get water there then perhaps the water reservoir in the refrigerator is frozen. It is located behind the crisper drawers.

I think your thermostat is defect. Not registering the correct temperature. dial in a higher temp for the time being, but (let) replace the thermostat.

It may be possible your unit does not have an actual thermostat to control temperature. If you received a wiring diagram with your unit look to see if there is an actual thermostat in the wiring. Sometimes the wiring diagram is glued to the back of the unit.

Ordinarily, that's an indication that the automatic defrost function has failed. If not corrected, the evaporator coil will eventually ice up and cause the freezer temperature to rise. On older models, the most common cause is a worn out defrost timer. Easy to replace and not particularly expensive. On newer electronically controlled models, expect to replace the (Chinese made) motherboard. Expensive, and the replacement won't be any better quality than the original.

you have your fridge setting to low (cold) or the sender temp probe maybe playing up.

It sounds like your temperature control is not functioning correctly. Most temp controls still have a small mercury switch somewhere in the cooling circuitry. I would hazard a guess that if you can turn the dial to different temp settings and it always goes to freezing at 0C or 32F that your temp switch is either bad or the mercury switch (which tips forward or back depending on the setting to make contact and start the compressor) is stuck somehow so that it always sets to the lowest possible setting for your Wine Cooler. Without actually looking inside and testing circuits, that's my best estimation of your issue. Hope that provides you with a starting point to talk to someone who can help you repair it.

Then the line in the door is frozen . Either raise the freezer temp for several days , so the line in the door will thaw , or , I have heard using an air tank will blow the ice out of the line in the door . There is a heater for the water dispensor tube , pt # WR49X10173 , which should keep this from happening again .

This appears to be a known problem with at least a couple of GE models (It has been happening in our freezer too). There is a GE Service bulletin at https://customernet.geappliances.com/OTIS/fs/home_images/REF01-10.pdf that seems to describe the fix as them sending out new shelves (and maybe someone to install them?)

The problem is probably the defrost heater WR51X443 . This part number consists of the defrost heater and defrost thermostat . Replace the complete kit . Might also replace the timer also which would give you the complete defrost system . Simple to replace , only 2 screws hold the heater on , the bimetal just clips to the coils , and 1 plug in for the whole kit . The timer is located behind the control panel inside the refrig section .

Defrost drain tube clogged, drain pan cracked, water tubing near compressor gets brittle and leaks, critters chew on water tubing also.