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GE Profile Spectra JGBP79 Gas Kitchen Range - Page 3 Questions & Answers
The oven won't light. I've took off the ignitor
Hello, The igniter may look like it is in good shape but it could have a hairline crack or it could just be worn. The igniter should glow a brillient yellow that you would find hard to look at...If it is glowing with a hint of orange it needs to be replaced. Igniters are very fragile parts and could last a couple of years or 15 years. If you have any other questions please feel free to comment. Good Luck!!! Mike
Broiler works but oven wont.
There is a valve on the rear to contorl the flow of gas to the oven that can be turned off or can go bad. Check it to make sure it hasn't gotten switched off and if its still not working (with swith flipped in the opposite direction) you probably have a bad valve
I need to ge my stove lit
Does it have electronic ignition (clicking sound when starting) if it doesnt and you have an older model you may need to re light the pilot? Also make sure your getting gas to the unit (you will hear a hissing sound when the burners are turned on) try using a match to light the burner
Broiler works on a GE JBP79 but oven will not
Diagnosing a non-sparking can be frustrating. With some simple understandable of how the module and related parts work, diagnosis can be made easier.
The module receives 120VAC from the ignition switches are wired in parallel, meaning that each switch can activate the module. Power (L1) comes into the first switch then jumps tot eh second, onto the third, and so on. L1 passes through the switch then outward to the module. The outgoing L1 is weird the same way as the incoming, with the exception that it goes to the spark module. With this understanding, ignition switch is turned on individually. Should one switch appear to be nonfunctional, check the switch. Should a couple of switched appear not to be working, check for loose wires between the switches. This only applies to non- reignition type systems.
The module, once it receives the L1 voltage from the switches, energizes the coils to produce approximately 12000-14000 VDC to the burners. The coil sends the voltage out via the igniter wires to the igniter where the spark jumps to the burner base. Voltage then passes through the burner to the grounding strap, through the chassis to the opposite grounding strap, to the burner base. The voltage jumps from the burner base to the igniter (that's right from the base to the igniter), passing back through the igniter wire, to the coil, thus completing the coil operation circuit. The coils in the module are balanced based on impedance or resistance. The coils are wired so that the left front and right rear burners are on one coil; the left rear and right front are on the other. Knowing about the balance and the path of the electrical flow, finding a sparking problem can be made less complicated. This only applies to the sealed burner, non-reignition system.
Now for the service diagnostics. The customer complains that the left burner is not igniting, but the other burners are sparking. The ignition switches can be ruled out since the module is receiving the L1 voltage and a spark is produced.*Since the left front burner is linked to the right rear burner, check the spark on that burner. If the spark at the right rear is a crisp blue spark, that indicates that the 12000-14000 VDC is returning to the burner. Electricity will take the path of least resistance and would rather go to the chassis than jump the gap at the burner. With this in mind, the next thing to check is for a possible grounded igniter wire or broken igniter insulator for the left front burner. let's now take a look at the opposite affect. The right rear burner is a light blue almost white spark. This would indicate not all the D.C. voltage is returning to the burner. Possible causes could be:
1) The gap between the igniter and the burner base is too large. *Should be approximately the thickness of two dimes.
2) Soiled igniter or burner base.
The above can be tested by switching the suspected burner with a known operating burner.
3) Loose wiring connections at the igniter, the grounding strap, or spark module.
4) Broken or pinched igniter wire between the burner and module.
Both of the above are physical inspections under the main top.
5) The module may have a week coil, which is not providing sufficient voltage to ignite the gas.
Hopefully this will help you diagnose erratic or intermittent sparking on your future service calls of this nature.
Changing an typical oven temp sensor.
Remove power first.
Due to productions changes and continuous improvements, it may be necessary to use an adaptor wire harness or wire nuts for a compatible connection.
Remove screws from inside the oven and pull towards you the inoperative sensor.
If the connection on the sensor or the wire harness is not applicable to your model, use two ceramic hi-temp wire nut connectors to splice the wires together. Strip insulation on each wire approximately 1/2" from the end. On some models, the sensor may be serviced from the front, on others the hole in the oven liner is not large enough for the wire nut/connector to pass through and must be serviced from the rear.
Important: Make sure the wire nuts/connectors are completely through the insulation and not touching the back of the oven cavity.
Once the wire nuts/connectors are properly positioned, reinstall the sensor screws removed earlier.
I want to get it lit
so call the gas company and have them come out and turn on the gas and they will check to make shre there is no leaks, they have sniffers to detect minute leaks and it normally free.
Oven door won't open
The micro switch in the latch has failed.
You must turn off the gas supply.
Remove the screws from the surface burners.
Raise the lid to access the door mechanism to open the door and to replace the switch.
GE Profile XL44 beeps erratically!
You have a bad key pad. The main control (ERC) thinks you are pressing a button. It is possible (although remotely) that the ERC may be bad instead... I give it 95% chance bad keypad and 5% chance bad ERC
GE Gas Stove'Error msg. F1"
Look in the back of the stove for a tech sheet. It should say on there. If I'm thinking of the right one, I believe it means the keypad is bad. Let me know what you find and I can help you further.
Oven comes on and hits the temp and turns off
Unplug your range. Then open the control panel and remove and re-install all the wires one at a time.
Sounds like a loose connection.
If that does not correct the problem replace the electronic control.
Oven doesn't work but broiler does
I think there is a problem with my top element, it doesn't cycle on when baking. The bottom element works fine. Also, the broiler works. What's the problem?
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