20 Most Recent GE Profile Spectra JGBP79 Gas Kitchen Range - Page 4 Questions & Answers

While unlikely, the ignitor in theory could have damaged the ERC (main oven control) it is more likely you have a bad keypad. Try pressing and holding bake and broil pads at the same time for 5 seconds and see if the display shows SF (will look like 5F). If it does, press the start button and try again bake again

Is the bake igniter working ? There are two igniters one for bake and one for broil My guess is that the bake igniter is bad and only the broil igniter is working. part #WB2X9154.

F1 Failed Thermistor Control Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC)
Good Luck and Please Rate Fixya!

There is a transformer in it that bumps the 120vac house voltage to 230 volts. I'm 98% positive the transformer is bad and it was more than likely caused by a power company surge. I suggest calling for service since it is Monogram. It is more complex to work on. That said, I would ONLY trust GE Factory Service 1-800-432-2737 or schedule online at www.geappliances.com to have it fixed.

I didn't catch the first line in my first response "Lost power, now oven won't work and display shows..." I am 99.999% sure when the power company restored your power they hit you with a surge that wiped out the low voltage transformer on your ERC (main oven control board). Call your power company and report it. I doubt they will cover the cost to repair but they should! Can't hurt to ask and have them file a claim

Is the problem associated with the BAKE feature, the BROIL feature, or BOTH? If only one of the oven features is not working, more than likely you have a bad igniter. Your range uses a glow bar type igniter to ignite gas. The igniter begins to glow and once it reaches a certain current potential, the gas valve opens and ignites the gas. This is a built-in safety feature of the oven that prevents free flowing gas from being allowed to accumulate with no ignition. This keeps gas build up from occurring in your home and creating an unsafe living environment. This is probably why you don't smell any gas. The stove is actually doing what it's designed to do. Now...if you could post back with an EXACT model number (located somewhere around the openings of the lower oven drawer or oven door) I can narrow down which igniter your stove uses. The price ranges from $52-$64.

This is actually a simple job that the average consumer can do on their own. This repair normally runs about $200 or higher if you have an appliance repair company to it for you. They typically charge more for the part and charge for labor. If you wish to pursue the repair on your own, I can provide you with step-by-step instructions. Let me know if you need further assistance.

If NEITHER oven feature is working, this may be a problem with your Electronic Range Control (ERC) board (sometimes called an Electronic Oven Control, EOC). There's usually an error code associated with a board failure, however. I say USUALLY - this is not always conclusive on every model. Let me know if any of the symptoms I've explained can narrow down where your problem may be.

PS It is common for the igniters to still glow and be bad. They become weak over a period of time and simply do not draw the necessary current to open the gas valve. So...if you see the igniter still glowing and wonder why, this is the case. It also depends upon the frequency of use. This is why the BAKE feature typically goes bad before the BROIL feature. They each have separate igniters and the most people bake more than they broil.

It sounds like the controls have been placed into a lockout mode. If your model is a JGBP79 do the following:
1) Press the BAKE and BROIL HI/LO pads at the same time for 3 seconds until the
display shows SF.
2) Press the SELF CLEAN pad. The display will show LOC OFF.

Now here is where the directions are kind of confusing, I will give it as they say it:

3) Press the SELF CLEAN pad again. The display will show LOC.
4) Press the START pad to activate the control lockout feature and leave
the control set in this special features mode.

Seems to me if its locked already, you would just do steps 1 and 2. And if you wish to lock it do steps 1 thru 4.

The glowbar or igniter bulb is burnet out

Yes I had the same problem on my JGBBP79. Change the lower igniter. About $75. Keep the range for a few more years and get rid of it. The next problem you'll mostly likely have is the touch pad F1 error. That stupid thing is +$300 and nothing more than a membrane touch pad attached to some glass. :-(

If your surface burners work and the broiler operates normally, more than likely you have a failed igniter on your bake manifold. There are two separate igniters on your oven. One is for bake, and one is for broil. This is a common failure, due to the fact that the bake function gets used more often than broil. I found your part listed at repairclinic.com. Just type in your model number and the igniter is listed as item number 1990. For instructions on how to replace the igniter, click on the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r401858-replacing_oven_igniter_gas_range

Just make sure you turn off the gas and unplug the range before starting any repairs. If you require further assistance, please let me know. I hope this information is helpful to you.

I just read that the electronic panel malfunctions due to rear burner use. Now, I know that mine gets REALLY HOT in between the back burners (where the heat exhaust for the oven is) whenever I bake/broil. I am guessing that it can cause the same malfunction fromt he oven, as with the backburners. Whenever I use both back burners, mine shows F7 E6, too. Unplugging it for the night or just waiting til the beeping stops and then clearing it works... until I cook again. I read that the replacement part for the control panel is about $300 and another $200, more or less, to install it! I think this is more like a recall or manufacturer's problem. I have read plenty of complaints and I think GE needs to make a call to fix them!!

The ignitor will be attached to the burner. Usually 2 quarter inch screws. Of course the ignitor has a harness that runs to the safety valve. You can either cut the wires and connect the new ignitor using ceramic wire nuts or you can follow the harness down. It's easier sometimes just to splice the wires and wire nut it, using the ceramic wire nuts. Catriver

Sure. If you go to my profile and look under "Tips and Tricks" section. I have a complete write up on how to replace an igniter in an electric oven. If you can't find it, let me know and I will forward the instructions to you.

PS Yes, this is a simple job that anyone can do. The igniter will cost you about $30 - $60 depending on where you get it. It will save you big $$ in the long run, if you avoid the labor charges :).

Hi Mike,

The Dial/Swiitch Has A Fault, Or The Igniter Electrode is Touching, or too Close To The Contact Area.
Try Turning the faulty switch, left or right Gently.
Could be grease/dust arcing the Contact.
Broken Or uninsulated Wire Under The Ignitor, arcing against metal surface.

Mike @ Compurepair.

Nzirons, Most likely, the bake igniter is shorted out and it has to be replaced. The part number for the igniter is WB2X9154.You can buy it for $60.00 to $80.00. If you are handy and have the right tools (Philips #1 and straight 1/4" screwdrivers, 1/4" and 5/16" nut drivers or socket wrenches, wire cutter and wire stripper) you probably can do it yourself. I would recommend to call a local appliance tech. just because of the safety issue. If you are going to do it yourself, let me know and I can help you with step by step instructions. Gendos

Vahid, is the display black, nothing there? Try pressing the bake and broil pads together for 3 seconds until display shows SF. Then press clock. If this doesn't work try the ERC test by doing this; Kill the power to the range for 10 seconds. Press the cooking time, delay start and number 8 pads all together. The display should show the word test. Give this a shot first....Catriver..post back.

Yes the control panel will need to be replaced. The problem now is these solid state controls and probably made in Mexico. 40 yrs ago everything was mechanical and had fewer problems.

It is a safety lock and must not be disconnected. Wait until the water has dried.

Question edited for clarity. The bake element failed? Test for continuity. If it has a fan, test that too. If it is electronic, check the thermistor temperature sensor. For suspected control panels or mainboards, I always suggest dealer service so you get the correct diagnosis and warranty on the parts and the job. They are also expensive. ..