GE Profile Spectra JGBP79 Gas Kitchen Range - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You are correct, it's the heat sensor. Easy to replace.

its making a circuit, just see which way the spark is jumping then you will know if it is going the right way, like a light bulb it will work either way

No oven ignition is usually thermostat issue.

The self clean option usually can't be stopped once its started. you may have to let it finish its cycle (a few hours) and see what happens from there. It also sounds like you could have a bad door sensor switch.

For women from a woman's point of view: Most if not all the screws were hex head 1/4. Have appropriate tools. A socket set will work. I like my little cordless screw driver. You will also need wire strippers and two wire nuts, they say ceramic wire nuts and electrical tape. It is also a good idea to have a someone else there for safety sake. I tipped the stove back.
Take everything our of the oven. Take big screws out at the back bottom of oven. Lift bottom of oven and push toward the back of oven. (There is a lip at the front that oven floor slides unde). Be careful as there are sharp edges all over the place once this oven bottom is off. Next unscrew the screw at the front middle of oven that holds the long burner in place. Next pull the stove drawer out and set aside. Pull stove out just enought to put large juice cans under the front legs. Way at the back you will see where the burner comes down to the gas line. There are two screws holding it to the back of the stove, remove them. Next find the two wires that come from the igniter. Unplug them. Lift out the burner. Unscrew the two screws that hold the igniter on to the burner. Carefully put the new ignitor on the burner. If the new ends do not match the old ones or if they are shorter, cut the old ones off near the old ignitor. Cut the ends off the new ignitor as far from the ignitor as you can. Clean the ends off so that about a half inch of wire is bare. Put the old ends on the new wire so that you can plug them in. Hold the two like wires so that both bare wires are parallel and screw on the wire nut. Lay it parallel to one wire and wrap electrical tape around it so that it will not pull loose. Plug in the way it was originally. Put everything back together opposite of the way you took it apart.

Hello,
The F1 error code means that the computer thinks a button on the touchpad is stuck. Sometimes this can be resolved by making sure the touchpad connector fits tight into the control board. The F1 code can be cleared by pushing CANCEL/OFF. If it returns the touchpad needs to be replaced GENE

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter

heatman101

There is a possibility that is only the knob that is rotate freely since is made from rubber and it can be tearing out.

So the fist action is to pull out the knob and turn the valve using a plier if the valve can rotate and adjust the gas flow and the flames then you need only the knob Burner knobPart Number: AP2014786 made by GE part no 2 in diagram.

However if it is the valve that is rotate freely, then for safety reasons you must replace the whole valve with a new one. VALVE, BURNER Part Number: AP4425971 made by OTHER

Part no 15 in diagram.

You should not try to fix the gas valve since even if you fill you can succeed the gas valve is not something that can be guarantee to be safe from leaks and this can be done only from the manufacturing factories. So just replace the whole gas valve since for 30$ we don't thing that you can take so extra large risk.

The above parts and all the other parts of your range can be found in the following link.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=214211&diagram_id=20346627#d20346627

Just confirm the model of your XL44 with the detail model like this form and click from the list this link.

JGBS02EN1

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=XL44

take a look at the igniter located in the center of two burners. clean the gap with a stiff brush between the eletrode and the upper plate. the distance is preset at the factory. you may have enough buildup to close the gap enough to trigger the igniter.

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
$%^&YG

that has a oven sensor, thin tube left rear wall two very thin wires to the back

good day,
hope this link below will solve your problem.

baking

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. Error code F0 indicates failed thermistor/transistor in control. To resolve this issue you’ll have to replace the Electronic range control (ERC). Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

hello,

The -F 1- is an error code indicating that water temperature sensor error. There is a chance that there is a loose wire connection on the water temperature

what you have to do to fix up this is to unscrew (open)ranger then trace the wire down to the reader sensor/panel clean all form of water and dirt around them after all this make sure that all wire are in there position mostly on the panel then couple it back as it was with this the problem of -F1- is solve please do this with care

thank you.

Hi,
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663023-oven_not_working_or_oven_not_heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter http://www.fixya.com/support/r4572625-oven_problems_replacing_igniter

heatman101

Hi,
Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4511800-oven_problems_electric_oven_heating

heatman101

Hi,
Before you go working too hard to get you oven to go into the self clean mode....check out this tip...


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3969401-self_cleaning_oven_problem

heatman101

" Wish I had read this first. I never would have used the self cleaning option. Thanks for the info!! "

This is usually because the igniter is not getting the proper amp draw to open the gas for the bake burner. To check the igniter for the correct amp draw watch the video on troubleshooting a gas oven.
www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html

Hi,
If yhe burner is staying lit and jusy goes off and on normally then check the thermostat. It is probably going bad...
If the burner is cycleing and not staying on long enough to heat the oven then your ignitor is going bad...

Here is a tip about that...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663023-oven_not_working_or_oven_not_heating

Heatman101

Turn off the gas supply to the range. Remove the oven racks,oven base pan,flame spreader.

Place a clamp on amp meter on one wire of the ignitor and turn the oven on to BAKE. When the ignitor glows it should read more than 3 amps. If it reads 3 amps or less replace the ignitor.
If it does not glow at all,replace the ignitor.