GE Profile Harmony DPGT750EC Electric Dryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

you need a service tech there if you arent the mechanical type it could be the heating elements or a thermostat as welll

Hello, this is Ava with Think Crucial. You may find the User's Manual for your GE model by clicking the link below. GE PTDN600EMWT Manuals You can purchase a wide variety of high quality appliances replacement parts direct from Think Crucial with free shipping and an exclusive 10% coupon for Fixya.com readers, use code: FIXYA10 https://www.thinkcrucial.com/collections/appliances I hope this was helpful. Ava B. Think Crucial Customer Care http://www.thinkcrucial.com/

i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.


Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.


Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)


Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

only if you can get a ge training manual,check with ge

http://members.msaworld.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2016/09/31-9104.pdf

No normally the blower is not driven by a belt, it is a motor with a blower wheel attached on the end of it...if the blower motor is not working then you will have to replace the blower motor

I could be your thermal fuse, that would be the first place to start after checking wiring connectivity, good luck

this dryer has two motors in it,all of the errors other than the touchpad were for heat problems and most likely caused by a bad blower motor that did fail alot.

what was the error code and what's the brand name and model number of the washer?

When you start the dryer does the drum rotates

Could be inveter board or heat sensor. You would need to find info on how to replace on the web. Try Here is the procedure for in-cycle sensor output. Press "Home" Press "Home" and "Help" simultaneously until you hear a beep. Press "Special Cycles" on touch screen. Choose Towels Start the cycle...magically you will see a bunch of numbers on the right side! Some numbers will be 0 for 5-20 seconds until the sensors pick up inputs. I'll try to list the sensor outputs to the best of my ability(they're not labeled) blower speed (will vary during course of cycle) moisture %? temp of inside of drum? drum motor speed? heater 1? heater 2? voltage /// seconds until complete OK Voltage with number under it is Hertz (60 Hertz US, 50 Hertz Europe) If any of these numbers remains 0, there is a problem!

Heating problem is most likely caused by one strand of your heating element is burned out. Heating element will have to be replaced if that's the case. Noise you are hearing is most likely coming from worn front and / or back bearing. Dryer has to be completely disassembled for either repair.

If you can open the walls of the dryer up check all screws and bolts that hold things together. Some times they will vibrate loose causing parts to make a vibrating sound against the frame itself.. Eventually the loose screws will just keep getting looser. Even the screws on the walls of the unit should be tightened That could cause a lot of noise.

do u mean it leaves clothes wet?

u mean it will not go into defrost mode? Fridge freezing up and no fan or air circulation: The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

Check the exhaust tube for obstructions. If this is a gas dryer it needs airflow coming and going through that tube. This is always the cheapest, easiest first step.

In order to replace the rollers you had to take off the dryer front. You probably had to unplug the wires to the door switch which if I remember right is in the top left corner of the front panel. Check those connections to the push button switch. If it is not connected, the door will show as open even though it is closed. Or the switch got damaged and is not making contact inside when door is closed. If i remember it is a 3 wire 1 piece plug.It also operates the drum light.

First make sure you house fuse or breaker didn't trip. If you have power to the dryer house outlet, next check the connections where the big 220 volt power cord goes into the dryer. Should be a small access cover you can take off to look at the power cord connections. Sometimes when they are first installed they are not put on tight. Over time they over heat and burn at the connectors. If either side is burned that may be your problem. If all connectors are good, you could have 2 possible circuit boards bad. 1 would be the display board itself (the one with the touch screen) or the main PCB board under the control panel in a tan looking cover box.

broken heating coils most likely , very common with age

broken heating coils most likely