20 Most Recent GE WBSE2090A Top Load Washer - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Your water fill (mixer) valve is failed in the open position.
CLICK HERE for the part.

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I fixed my washer by taking off the hose that controls the load indicator switch and blew air into it and it works like a charm, so please don't charge me 20 dollars cause i fixed it myself, thanks

its probably your transmission

its either your water pressure, something clogging your water valve, and or your watervalve itself

check your water pressure if its good check the valve on the back of the washer to see if anything is stopping it up . you may have to replace the water valve

Unfortunately not. In addition to replqacing the blet, the transmission must be replaced. It is the only item in your washing machine that contains gear oil. It's a tough job for the do-it-yourselfer...If I can help further, I am here.

Eric Campion

You should be able to just grab the agitator and hank it straight up and off. Sometimes you might have to slip a belt or rope under the agitator and fasten the rope to a 2x4 or similar and then hank up on the board. Remove the plastic part under where the agitator was (one 1/2 inch head bolt) . If it does not come off, break it off with a chisel. If the metal spline shaft under that turns freely by hand, you have a bad transmission. If it does not turn by hand, just install a new WH49X10042 air bell (agitator drive) and replace the agitator.

Sometimes, there is a reset built into one of the knobs on top. There could also be a reset button on the control panel. I missed this years back when mine did the same thing. I forgot about the reset because I never had to use it... Also, if you have it plugged into a GFI receptacle (the kind with a test and reset button) reset the receptacle.

Unplug the washer.
Remove the front panel. putty knife needed.
Remove the drain pump and clean it out as well as the drain hose from the tub to the pump.
If they are not blocked replace the pump motor.

Wald, a couple of things here, see if they apply to your situations. I have seen the speed selector switch on GE models go bad and send voltage to both, the high and low windings in the motor. This causes the motor to get real loud and but usually kicks out the overload in the motor. Another issue is the current jogging between the high and low windings causing a chunka-chunka-chunka effect. GE put out a motor kit with a new harness and start cap to correct this problem. Open the front panel of your washer by pusing in on the two clips just under the lid and pulling the front panel towards you. You should see the harness with the start capacitor on the right if you have the latest motor. If you are handy with a meter, you can check the white and white/red wire to the motor. If you have a steady 120 volts to the motor during this jogging, replace the motor with the new kit. Catriver..post back.

Hello and welcome

You said, My GE washer is leaking a tan colored oil underneath the unit. I suspect it's the gear case leaking. How difficult is it to replace the gasket or seal. I like to fix things and have tools. If the gear oil is leaking this usually means the transmission is shot and on it's way out. It is not cost efficient to have it replaced. 99.9 % of the time you throw it out and buy a new washer.
For the cost of the Transmission and the labor.
you can buy a new washer.
How old is the washer ?


Here is an interesting report I just read!!!!!!!!!!

Repair or replace?

When to pull the plug on your old washer

Typically, you'll also find a troubleshooting section for more-serious problems
in the owner's manual.

Should you pay for a repair or buy a new model?
The answer depends mostly on the age of your washer,
how much you bought it for,and the cost of the repair.

Follow these guidelines:

When a repair makes sense.

If your washer is under warranty or less than four years old ,
paying for a repair makes sense.
Note that washers under warranty might require service from a factory-authorized technician;
readers have found them on a par with independent repairers.

When a repair might be a wise choice.

If your washer is out of warranty and is four to seven years old,
it might make sense to pay for a repair. Customers generally pay $100 to $200 for a repair.
But you might want to buy a new model even at this stage,
given that today's models have added features.
Higher energy efficiency is another plus: Energy Star-qualified models made after April 28, 2008,
are 43 percent more efficient than conventional models built before 2001 and 56 percent
more efficient than those built before 1993.

When it pays to replace.

The repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new washer.
Data also shows that it doesn't pay to fix a less-expensive washer
eight or more years old.

Thanks to better recycling programs, less than 10 percent
of washers you replace are likely to end up in a landfill.


Thanks for giving me the opportunity to help!

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Remove the plastic hose from the water level switch and blow through it until it flows freely.
If it does not clear this way. Remove the front panel.putty knife needed.
Remove the water level tube from the tub and clean out the gunk.
Reconnect it to the water level switch.
Set the machine to spin and run it.
Reset water level control and try your machine.

I'm no repairman but here's a coupla thots:
1 - try running an empty load after bleaching. Save money and just use cold water. First add a few cups of water to the bleach dispenser to help flush out the old bleach that might remain, then run it.
2 - lemon juice is naturally acidic and should neutralize the bleach. You could add some to the bleach dispenser and do the above. Maybe mix a half-cup with a few cups of water and put in the dispenser, then run it. (Lemon juice [or vinegar] is good thing if you get bleach on your hands, too.)
OF COURSE -- Test to see if this works with a couple colored rags before running any good clothes through.
3 - How about using oxygen bleach alternatives (color-safe bleach) instead of regular bleach?
I suppose there could be a problem with your dispenser, idk....

if motors do not spin it 90% of the time is the carbon motor brushes worth trying under £10 /$17 usually easy to replace

sounds like the water level switch is not working pop the front cover off and see if the tube on the left of the tub is still hooked up. to remove front cover use a putty knife and slide between thee top and the front cover you wil feel the knife stop about two inces from each side push in on the place where it stopped and pull out on the front cover

Reach down to the bottom of the tub and pull the agitator straight up and out of the machine. Sometimes this is a bit difficult. If so, slip a belt or rope under the agitator, attach to a 2 x 2 or similar object, and **** it straight up and out of the machine. Now, take the bolt out of the center part with a 1/2 inch wrench. Pull the upside down can shaped nylon part straight up and off. If it does not come off, you can crack it in parts with a hammer and chisel if needed. Try to turn the splined shaft with your fingers. If you can turn it, you are screwed. (need a new transmission) Most likely you will not be able to turn it with your fingers, which is good. That means that all you have to do is replace the agitator drive (sometimes called an air bell coupler) part number WH49X10042, reinstall agitator, and you are ready to go. Cheap fix.

hold the cluch up on shaft,,put clip into grove on buttom of shaft hold clutch up with clip pressure now your hands are free ,,but clutch clip is not on all the way yet ..now here is where the problem lies,,get a nut driver and a small hammer ..hit the back of the clip sharp and straight ..your not going to get it the first time but i know you will get it on..the trick is to push the clip on with your hand first to hold clutch and free your hands to knock the clip on..onthejob

Sounds Like Its The Belt Open Up The Unit Get The Broken Belt And Take It To The Auto Parts Store And Have Them Give You One Of The Equal Length.

you need to have a tech out to look at it it sounds like the motor isnt going into high spin and /or cutting out on over load this is a problem with the g/e's there is no filter on this machine all the lint is flushed down the drain

your main control board is bad ( Electronic Timer) if you need one let me know I can sell you one at whole sale but i would need model number to get the right 1