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GE WBSE2090A Top Load Washer Questions & Answers
Whirlpool heavy duty washing machine leaking brown oil, worth repairing?
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I have an older Whirlpool duet that reads sue code.It has water that has not drained fully with a odd sound towards the rear of machine possibly a short in board?
Is it SUE or SUD code?
Sud
SUDS LOCK (Overdose of detergent detected during the wash cycle)
The motor control unit senses a suds lock condition by analyzing the current draw on the drive motor. If "Sud" is displayed a potential suds lock is detected. This may signify a bad pump, an extra heavy load, excessive detergent, or excessive suds.
Potential Causes
• If too much detergent was used, run the unit through a Rinse/ Spin cycle then a Normal cycle without adding any detergent. This should clear the unit of the excess detergent.
• Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked
• Check Wire Harness connections to the Drain Pump, Pressure Switch, and Central Control Unit (CCU)
• Check / Clean Drain Pump Filter of foreign objects
• Check Drain Pump
• Check the Pressure Switch
• Check CCU
Washer will not fill up just 1/2 full
It sounds like either the pressure sensor or the rubber tube that connects the sensor to the tub. try fixing the hose first as it is much cheaper and easier to do.
The water pumps out fine,
Hi
The issue seems to be with the door lock or the clutch
assembly that needs replacement. Please let me know if its making any sounds as
well or some additional info that you want to tell me....please post back for further assistance.
Daniel
My washer does not completely
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I would seriously consider the following before having it taken apart!
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
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If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning!
If these actions have not cured the problem, it could be the control board OR the main motor. Motors will show weaknesses when commanded to spin.
If this has assisted you and/or clarified the situation please consider a 4 thumbs up for our rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
The washer is leaking from the bottom
Your center seal is going bad or you have a bad hose, leaking water pump, or a cracked tub but GE is notorious for there center tub seals to going bad I would recommend a qualified service technician come look at it to rule out which one it is if your centers tub seal is bad I would buy a new washer but sorry for the troubles.
WILL NOT AGITATE
Will it spin? Have you tried the Delicate cycle?
If it is like my washer, it appears that the high speed part of the motor is the issue. If when it comes to the point where it is supposed to start agitating, but all you hear is a buzzing, grab the tub, the outside edges, not the agitator (you're going to have to use a magnet to override the safety) and turn it clock-wise, and it should start to agitate (you might have to do it a couple times if you don't get it fast enough). Close the lid, but make sure it doesn't stop or you'll have to do it again. When it goes to the low speed agitation, open the lid and make it stop. Close the lid and it should start right back up. When the washer spins, listen for when it goes to the high speed spin, you probably won't hear it gain much speed (it should sound much faster if working correctly).
The motor (which in mine has already been replaced once) kit that is available (~$200-$250) will require some minor re-wiring, as they added a capacitor to the electrical system due to a problem with the previous design (yes, I've had that problem, which was a low speed motor issue, where the washer wouldn't spin on low speed and now it appears to be screwed up on high speed motor.) I'm weighing the options of just waiting for black friday and buying a new washer since ~$500 on motors for this washer is just unjustifiable and I won't be buying another GE, that's for damn sure.
The washer wont drain
your washer I believe is a direct drive. You will need to dip water out as much as you can and then unplug the washer and pull it away from the wall so you can tilt it backwards so you can look under it. If it is direct drive there will be no belt. And on direct drive the motor is attached to a water pump on the front side. It is held on by metal clips which are secured a 5/16 hex nut. These metal clips are sprung steel. Between the motor and the pump is a flexible drive made up of a plastic round and rubber round pieces that attach the motor and pump. When this part breaks the motor will run but the pump will not turn. This is a common break and you can find it on the internet or a local sales/repair shop. Remember no mater how much water you took out there will be more in the tub so be ready will lots of towels. You will also need to remove the rubber hoses from the pump if the pump its self is bad. Try turning the pump by hand with a large screwdriver inserted into the drive end of the pump it should turn easily with even resistance as you turn it. If it is jammed something has locked up the pump and you may be able to shake it out or the pump has worn to the point that the plastic bearing has siezed and will not turn easily and will ketch as you turn it if you find this replace the pump along with the drive parts. Take your time and be careful dont let the washer fall on your head. good luck
Washer overflowed during wash cycle
Hi, The first thing to check is the pressure switch hose. It goes from the pressure switch in the control console down to the airdome on the tub.
If it gets pulled loose, gets a hole in it, or gets clogged with lint or soap scum, the pressure switch will never sense the water level and turn the water valve off.
If the hose is ok, then you probably have a failed pressure switch.
Washer won't drain
The problem is either your pump or your hoses. This should be an easy fix. All you need is a screwdriver and a bucket to catch water. 1st unplug the machine and remove the drain hose from the drain. Then try to drain the water from the washer by plugging it back in and setting the washer to drain. if no water comes out of your drain hose then you know your plumbing is ok. Next put the drain hose back in the drain and take the cabinet off your washer. You will see your pump with 2 hoses connecting to it. One hose connects to the basket and the other to the drain. Disconnect the hose coming from the basket and if water comes out then you know the basket is not blocked with any article of clothing. If both check out ok your problem would be the pump. Write down the model and serial number to your washer and buy a pump. They are only about $15.00. Remove the old and install the new. Having a repairman install would cost about 150.00, so i advise you to do it yourself or have a friend help
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