it does sound as if it is a problem with the control board I will go though my manual and see if you can do anything yourself to correct stand by / the make of the machine would also be helpfull if you can let know
You probably need a new agitator coupler. Part number: WH49X10042. To check it remove the agitator by yanking straight up on it. It should pop right off, there are no screws to remove. Under it will be a plastic coupler that has a 7/16 bolt in the top of it. Without removing the bolt see if the coupler will spin. It shouldn't. If it does spin remove the bolt and pull the coupler off. It is sitting on the top of your transmission. If you see oil around the inside of the coupler or pooled where the tranny-splines enter the neck, you will need a new transmission as well. Let me know if that happens. Hopefully, it is just the coupler. Make sure to clean the trans splines well. The plastic teeth from the coupler will need to be removed from the splines. They come out easy but make sure to get them all. It can be tough to get on and tougher to get back off if you don't get it clean enough. Consider putting some petroleum jelly around the splines before pushing the coupler into place. The coupler will come with a new bolt so do what it takes to get the old one off. usually they are no problem. If the coupler doesn't spin let me know.
Jim, we have same problem with Simpson top loader washing machine.Our repairer eventually diagnosed it as a problem with the electronics but it can't be fixed. So we have a 3 year old machine with good pump , motor, gearbox etc but need to buy new machine now. Yours might be similar problem. Don't buy a simpson. Sorry, this is just what we've been told.Jenny
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!) It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Remove the front panel by pushing downwards on the quick clip between the top and the front. Align your putty knife with the edge of the lid on each side to find them clips, get the pump off there and take it apart, get the junk out of it and put it back together. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
The issue is with the motor that is bad and should be
replaced. If it was the control board then it won't even start. You can check
this diagram and buy the parts from this link. Hope this helps...please post
back for further assistance.
Hi, you may want to check the seal at the bottom of the agitator, there is a o-ring that keeps the water in the drum from leaking through the agitator as it spins. This is a cheap seal and will wear over a period of time from exposure to bleach and detergent. You need to take the agitator apart and remove it from the drum and you should see this seal at the base of the agitator were it meets the drum.
Replace the seal and reassemble, take the metal casing off the washer and fill the drum with a little water, wait, and see if the water is leaking under the drum. If no leak, try to reassemble and run the washer.
between the front panel and the lid top approx. 2 inches from the side you should see a clip on each side if you carefully place a screw driver in this area you can disengage the clips and the panel will come toward you top first and the has 2 clips at botton of front panel you left up on front panel and can remove it...
My washer had this problem,this is what I did.I took the front panel off by prying at the top of the seam with a large flat blade screwdriver.Once the panel was off I dicovered what looked like webbing around the pump cooling fins.Someone had washed a comforter with a hole in it and some of the polyester filling spun out over the tub and got tangled around the pumps fan blade and slowed the pump down.I cleaned it out and put it back together and it's been fine ever since.
Belt slipping or broken? Does the spin motor spin up and sound like its going fast?....Most of them you can see the pulley from the top or bottom if you remove the top cover via small philips screws. Turn it OFF before removal please....
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
These fail 3 ways disconnected,open circuit, or misaligned strike.
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
