20 Most Recent Kenmore 95002 / 95004 Electric Kitchen Range - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Most ranges have leveling legs. Remove the storage drawer and look to see if the legs have threads. Then twist a leg clockwise to raise one corner or counterclockwise to lower it. (It could be reversed - it's been awhile since I leveled a stove.) Adjust as needed to get the stove level front to back and side to side.

BTW: the parts diagram for the 95002 chassis is here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Range-Parts/Model-66595002100/0582/0124111/P0101022/00003?blt=06&prst=&shdMod= .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

F3 error code indicates a open/shorted oven temperature sensor and to solve this problem the sensor needs replacement. If you wan to be sure before replacing the sensor then you can test it with a voltmeter for around 1100ohms....if it reads more then this then it needs replacement however, if the reading is around or less then 1100ohms then it is the control board that needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Sorry to read about your problem.

Their is a 80% chance you have a defective heat coil or coils. or the heat selector switch is defective.

I suggest you place a call to a service company.

I tried to help you. Please help me and vote/rate this response thanks.
If you live in Denver area, I can help you.

i've been seeing a lot of these F# being sensors.
I'm haveing a problem with F10 popping up when i try to bake.

Hi,

If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right, then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.

Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly

heatman101

Have you verified that you have power coming in? If the oven light doesn't come on, check your breaker panel, then check the plug to make sure it wasn't burned out by a bad contact. (Even if the light works, it's possible the controller is powered by the opposite leg of the 240 VAC plug, so the plug could still be the problem).

If I had this situation, and didn't see any problems with the input wiring, I would unplug the stove and do continuity checks on the internal wiring, starting from the power cord, using my digital multimeter. In particular, I would check for continuity through the controller transformer.

If you do not find an open circuit or bad connection, the next step would be to inspect the controller for visible signs of failure. In particular, look at the electrolytic capacitors. (These are metal cylinders with plastic sleeves. The sleeves have a stripe with minus signs printed on it to indicate polarity, and have the size, temperature, and voltage rating printed on the remaining area of the sleeve.) If the capacitor sleeve shows discoloration from overheating or if the capacitor is bulging at the top or bottom or shows signs of leakage, replace it. You will need to know how to unsolder and solder parts on a printed circuit board, or know somebody who can do this. The new capacitor will probably cost less than $2. Electrolytic capacitors in the power supply filter the transformer voltage after it is converted to DC; the controller circuit won't work with unfiltered power. This is the most common failure in electronic circuits powered off the line.

If you don't see any visible problems, measure the voltage on the secondary side of the controller transformer to make sure it is working (be careful where you put your hands and feet - you need ths stove plugged in with the back removed to do this). You should measure somewhere between 5 and 24 Volts AC; I don't know what it should be for this particular model (it may be marked on the transformer). If you are confident that you can identify the filter capacitor and can safely put your voltmeter leads on it, you can measure AC voltage on it. If you have more than a couple of volts AC, the capacitor is probably going bad. The DC voltage on the capacitor should be roughly the same or up to 1.4 times higher than the transformer secondary's AC voltage.

If you have good power on the controller board, and it still doesn't work, then it's time to consider replacing it.

The cook top heaters are control by the infinite switches Infinite switch

Number: 3148954 Substitution: 3149400

This in the link blow is with number 4.

The oven heating elements of the oven both broiler and bake are control by the Microcomputer

Number: 8522442 Substitution: 8522442R

And at the diagram in link below is with no 12

The above parts and all the other parts diagram of your model can be found in the link.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Range-Parts/Model-66595002101/0582/0124111/P0106186/00004?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

Hi,
If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right,then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.

Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly

heatman101

Hi,

Technically yes, but safely... NO!!

Here is a tip that I wrote about the oven door glassreplacement...
It is not that hard...

Range/Stove/ Oven Door Glass Replacement
heatman101

Hi,

Before you go working too hard to get you oven to go into the self clean mode(self destruct)....check out this tip...Self Cleaning Oven Problemheatman101

Hi,

This is a common problem with this series.It sound more like the gas safety valve is stuck open.Check and let me know.

Thanks and Regards
taran_2005

This indicates the ERC Electronic Range Control has failed. Check to see if you have power going into the control. If you do and nothing is working the control board or ERC needs to be replaced. Here is a link for checking and replacing an oven control. If you need diagrams and illustrations of your specific model enter your model their. All parts come with installation instructions.

Unplug the oven and wait about 5 minutes. Then plug the oven back in and press and hold the unlock button for about 15 seconds. This should unlock the oven.

It appears an on-board relay on the ERC/CLOCK has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.





Thanks!!

Hello there:
Any time you get the FO or even the EO or E2 error code it generally means the same thing your electronic range control is failing and will need to be replaced looks something like this one

Need more of a model number from the unit itself to determine manufacturer but if it is a Frigidaire it will have a unit which turns the lock rod to door. It is behind the rear panel and if it can't be turned must be removed then turn the rod . The door will now open. Replace it and should now work.