It looks like you have a water filler valve problem, with your washer emptied turn the water faucets back on and turn on the washer, if it starts filling turn your timer knob around several times, like you were hunting a cycle you wanted to use. This may make something dislodge from the valve.if blocked If not try the same thing with your water control knob. turning it from hot to cold and then to hot again......I hope these work.....check equally the hose and if that is your problem you may need a new water valve.
Unfortunately the only way to restrict the flow directly would almost certainly cause the machine to malfunction, as the drain pump and valve system is not designed to deal with significant downstream pressure.
The only way I can think of would be to install a small tank (a jerrycan or similar may be ideal) that will take a full load's worth of waste water. Connect the tank to the washer, and ensure there is an air-hole/breather at the top. Fit a pipe low down in the tank through a normal (ball-valve type ideally) tap, and open that tap just enough for the new tank to drain slowly into your drain system. (some camping shop type water cans may already be fitted with a tap that may be suitable). The height of the tank would be the only thing you would have to be careful with, as the bottom drain would have to be above the outlet drain pipe, and the top inlet from the washer would have to be below the maximum level permissible (usually described in the leaflet with the washer, normally only a few inches/centimetres above the top of the washer is the maximum recommended, sometimes just below the top of the washer).
Get a plumber to check for blockage in the drain line, as the amount of waste water from one of these machines should rarely be too much for a properly functioning drain unless the pipe from the machine to the main drain is too small or blocked, or the main drain is at least partially blocked.
If you wish to go with my first idea, then I am more than happy to supply rough drawings of what would be needed, and I would not expect parts to cost too much - only issue would be if you had the space to put a small tank, and that you would have to ensure the tank was empty each time before starting a new load.
An alternative solution would be to lead the waste from your washer into a garden water storage tank, checking first if the detergents you use are harmful to plants or the environment generally (many are not and plants sometimes thrive on this sort of water) - you can then water your plants for free and solve the drain issue. Obviously having some sort of garden is a pre-requisite for this, but it could be a good solution if this is the case. Please check local environmental regulations before discharging anything about which you are unsure, as fines can be quite steep.
I believe a plumber should be your first port of call to check the drains.
Their are 2 different ways to remove the top based on when that washer was made the manufacture used differnt methods this is how to do it on each style
remove diagonal panel between washer and control panel in the back of washer top will either be 2 brass colored clips or in the very back egde of top will be 2 5/16th inch hexhead screws
for clips place a small screwdriver in front of that clip and pop clips off and slide top forward
for the screws remove screws from behind top in the left/right corner..pull top forward a bit and lift up a little the plug for the lid switch will be in front right side..squeeze the release for that plug,unplug swicth plug then remove top
in both cases lid switch asm. will be on right side of top on the underpart of it
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
If it is carrying out the wash and rinse cycles OK the lid mechanism would appear to be OK, wouldn't it? Often a washer will not continue onto the spin if it cannot drain the water completely from the previous cycle. JUST in case this is your problem may I suggest following my general guidance notes on checking drain motor lint trays/filters and the drain motor itself?
------------------------------------------- Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!
Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C
On the panel thats above the lid of the washer there are 2 screws that hold the small panel on. Remove the 2 screws, and in the back corners there are 2 clips that can be removed by using a flathead screwdriver. Here is a video to better show you how to remove the clips. The part to watch is at 1:07 to 1:20 mins. Then, just tilt the cabinet forward and lift it off. Don't forget to unplug the lid switch wire on the back right side.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing. I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information. RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell. In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question
Disconnect the discharge hose from the washer and look for a clog at both ends of the hose. Also, look down where the discharge port is on the washer and clear out the clog there also. If you see no clogs, then make sure your discharge hose is not crimped at such an angle to prevent water from flowing through. Also, make sure your discharge hose is not running on the floor and that it goes vertical straight 4.5 to 5 feet from the floor and then loops directly into the discharge pipe. Give that a shot. Still no water drain? Then the water pump needs to be replaced.
take out the heviest object put it back in evenly by it self .or cold be broken stabilizer spring.cold be laying inside the botum of machine.adjust legs.
you can order a replacement timer from either sears or they do sell a universal timer that can be installed by a service tech timer's run from $35-$90 depending on where you buy it
