20 Most Recent Kenmore 88752 Top Load Stacked Washer / Dryer Questions & Answers

those signs are not neccessarily ur timer, u may have replaced it for nothing. both spin and drain problems are likely located elsewhere? No agitation or spin? try these: Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly. Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it. Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping. Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly. CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. Washer will not drain: Thedrain water pumpis the main part in your washing machine that pumps out the water. If this is defective or has failed in any way, this will be the reason why your washer will not drain the water. Before you order a new drain pump, make sure tocheck the pump to be sure a small object like clothing or similar has not lodged itself insideof it causing the NO DRAIN issue. If the drain pump is not clogged, you can test it with a multimeter and remove and replace if needed. Go to Google or YouTube and search for "Replace Washing Machine Drain Pump" then type your brand and model number of washer to show you details on replacement. Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2014/10/30/fix-washing-machine-that-wont-drain-washer-not-draining-water/#ixzz3X2LbXMWJ The washing machinedrain hoseis where the water flows through to get the water out.If this drain hose is blocked, kinked, bent, or clogged, the washer will NOT be able to remove the waterfrom the tub. Check the drain hose to be sure it allows the water to flow freely. You can take the drain hose off and run water through it in your sink to be sure it is not blocked. If there is water STILL in the washer when you remove the drain hose, grab a bucket as the water will exit from where you disconnected it Thewater pump belt(to drain out the water) may have broke or become frayed or loose.If this belt breaks then it is unable to drain and remove the water from your washer. Inspect the belt to see if this is causing theNO DRAINissue and remove and replace if needed. If thelid switchis not working as required it will cause your washer to not drain (and many other problems).This may be unlikely as a bad lid switch will usually cause your washer to alsonot agitate or spin.However on some models this can vary. The best thing to do if you have a suspected bad lid switch is to test it. It can fail electrically and or mechanically. If mechanical failure is the issue, you should be able to see if it is cracked, broken, or not in place to make contact with the lid. To test it electrically, use a multimeter set on Ohms and test it for continuity

Your heater is a long insert which fits into the heater metal can held by one screw between the heater terminals, not likely for this to slide out of the can as it requires a firm push to fit all the way in before securing it with the screw. In any case the heater can should be removed, the heater insert inspected, along with your electrical terminals on the heater too. Expansion and contraction caused by heat and cool can cause poor electrical connections leading to shorted, burned, fused wires. If the heater is fine, the safety thermostats check out, and the home vent is functional, the only repair is to correct each damaged wire, as your wire harness appears to be no longer avail. Pleazer Appliance...

Hello,I think your heating element is defective and needs to be replaced.Regards.

Run the washer without a load in it. Open the lid when it goes to agitate and see if it is actually agitating by hold the lid switch down with a small screwdriver or a pen. You may hear the grinding noise while it's agitating, just not as pronounced. You most likely just need the "motor coupling" on the unit.Post back your results.

unplug unit first , then remove rear cover and check to see if dryer vent is plugged up with lint, clean as needed plug back in and try unit if still not working unplug unit again and start checking sensors for over heat , they look like dodes and have two wires going to them , if you have a jumper you could use it to check each sensor , but this is not fixing the problem only finding it , then you will need to order a sne sor they are very cheep and they protect your unit ,

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

I would expect that to be found on the manufacturer's plate, probably on the back. I doubt anyone on this Forum would have such information; it's just made up of ordinary guys and gals, probably at home and from all over the world, with experience of addressing problems and giving guidance for free on the web ;-0)
Also members on Fixya are not 'affiliated' to, or representative of, any manufacturer at all, just using their experience gained probably over many years.

If this has assisted and/or clarified the situation for you please consider a 4 thumbs up on our rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Many stack units have a separate pump for draining. If your unit is spinning but not
pumping out then this is the case. This pump is notorious for swallowing baby socks
or other small items. Fortunately the front panel is usually removable by removing two
screws at bottom of the panel and lift it off the clips. Then the hose is removed
from the pump.
This is tricky since there is often a lot of water remaining in the tank. I use a shop vac to empty the tank and often use two small boards to pinch
off the hose with a clamp (they do make special hose clamps for this). As you remove the hose I keep the shop vac or a pan to catch runoff. Remember to secure power before
doing any of this work. Hope this helps.

Have you checked the breaker yet?