20 Most Recent Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE4t Front Load Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers


F02 is for not draining correctly. Here is what you need to do:
1. Unplug the washer

2. Take of the toe panel in the front by removing the three screws.

3. Get a bunch of towels (I mean a bunch!!!)

4. The pump is in the center, and it has a plastic grip handle that one can unscrew to remove the filter. As you unscrew it, LOTS of water will come out. Be ready with the towels. A cookie sheet helps to collect the water too.

5. Clean the filter assembly.

6. If one wishes to check the inlet of the pump, remove the back panel, about 12 screws. (Note, the following works for replace the pump as well)

7. Remove the large bellow from the bottom of the tub that goets to inlet of the pump by removing the clamp

9. Lift up on the plastic cover that covers the wires that power the pump. There may be a small plastic catch that is lifted up as to allow the connector to become free.

8. Remove the Torx screw that holds that is the center just under the filter screen.

9. Pull the pump forward.

10. Unclamp the pump outlet hose.

11. Remove pump

12. Unclamp the large bellow on the pumps inlet and inspect for debris.

13. Clean pump and fitler w/o getting water on the pump.

14. Install in reverse order. Remember, it is much easire to put the inlet bellow and outlet hose on the pump before you put into the washer

Kenmore 3.8 cu.... | Answered on Sep 19, 2011


Hello, remove the bottom panel of the machine. You can remove the panel on most by useing a putty knife at the two clip areas on the upper part of the lower panel by pushing in on the clips and pulling out on the panel. Once you remove the lower panel there should be a pull cord or a plastic line with a loop on the end once you pull this cord this automaticlly pops the door open. If you have any further questions message me back. If you need a schematic showing the location of the cord message me back your model number and I will locate your schematic for you. Thanks
Rick
p.s while you have the bottom panel out if your unit also has a filter on the pump you should always take this opportunity to clean out the pump filter as well.

Kenmore 3.8 cu.... | Answered on Sep 15, 2011


Hello and welcome to FixYa


DL f is a door lock error and is caused due to an issue with the door lock when it is unable to lock/unlock. Please check the door lock mechanism/door switch assembly and replace the part that has gone bad so that the issue is resolved. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.


Kevin

Kenmore 3.8 cu.... | Answered on Sep 09, 2011


Hello,

Here is what the F/H error code means;

FH No water detected entering machine or Pressure switch trip not detected. If after 30 seconds the control does not detect water entering machine and then valves will be turned off and the error code will be displayed.
Or
If the control has turned the water valves on and after 8 minutes the flow meter has detected 10.5 gallons of water passing through it, but has not detected the pressure switch trip, the valves will be turned off and the error code will flash.

Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display.

Potential Causes

• If there is no water in the unit:
- Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way.
- Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves
- Verify inlet valve operation
• If there is water in the unit:
- Verify Drain pump operation
- Pressure Switch Hose is in good condition and properly connected to Tub and Pressure switch

• Verify there is not a siphon problem
• Verify wire harness connections to; Inlet Valves, Pressure Switch, Drain Pump, Flow Meter, and Central Control Unit (CCU)
• Check all hoses for possible leaks
• Verify pressure switch operation
• Verify flow meter operation
• Verify CCU operation
If your fairly mechaically inclined this will make sense to ya,if not i recommend calling for service by a qualfied technician

Kenmore 3.8 cu.... | Answered on Jul 29, 2011


Hello, welcome to fixya.

Based on your post I understand you have a "F2" error problem with a Kenmore washer, the error means an excessive drain time or excessive suds was detected as you may or may not already know.

If you follow the link to my solution to this error designed specifically for "do-it-yourselfers" you should be fixed up in no time. (It's much quicker for me than pasting or retyping the complete solution several hundred times, that's how common this is)

http://www.fixya.com/support/r9090359-whirlpool_frontload_f2_f21_sd_suds

Thank you for visiting fixya for your washer inquiry. Please take a moment to rate my assistance both here and on my tip link and leave a brief testimony.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Kenmore 3.8 cu.... | Answered on Jul 06, 2011


check the mesh on your water inlet valve. could be a problem with the valve or the pressure switch.

• Verify Drain pump operation

• Pressure Switch Hose is in good condition and properly connected to Tub and

Pressure switch

•Verify there is not a siphon problem

•Verify wire harness connections to; Inlet Valves, Pressure Switch, Drain Pump,

Flow Meter, and Central Control Unit (CCU)

•Check all hoses for possible leaks

•Verify pressure switch operation

•Verify flow meter operation

•Verify CCU operation

Kenmore 3.8 cu.... | Answered on Feb 13, 2011


Wont spin

Kenmore 3.8 cu.... | Answered on Feb 13, 2011


Sorry, the Kenmore HE4 dryer doors are reversible, but not the washers. I don't understand why they made them like that but they did. Sorry I was not able to help you.

Kenmore 3.8 cu.... | Answered on Feb 04, 2011


Sounds like pump may be pluged//remove lower kick panal there should be a cleanout on the pump turns counter clock wise to remove lay down towels as water will come out//remove clean put back togeather.....good luck

Kenmore 3.8 cu.... | Answered on Feb 01, 2011


"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.

Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:

- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.

In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.


NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.
(tip courtesy JSRock)

Thanks for using FixYa

Kenmore 3.8 cu.... | Answered on Jan 19, 2011


the machine has a broken support arm on the inner tub. Very expensive to replace. Parts alone are over 300.00

Kenmore 3.8 cu.... | Answered on Jan 18, 2011


F/H No water detected entering machine or Pressure switch trip not detected.

If after 30 seconds the control does not detect water entering machine and then valves will be turned off and the error code will be displayed. - or -
If the control has turned the water valves on and after 8 minutes the flow meter has detected 10.5 gallons of water passing through it, but has not detected the pressure switch trip, the valves will be turned off and the error code will flash.
Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display.
  • If there is no water in the unit:
    1. Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way.
    2. Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves
    3. Verify inlet valve operation
  • If there is water in the unit:
    1. Verify Drain pump operation
    2. Pressure Switch Hose is in good condition and properly connected to Tub and Pressure switch
  • Verify there is not a siphon problem
  • Verify wire harness connections to:Inlet Valves, Pressure Switch, Drain Pump, Flow Meter, and Central Control Unit (CCU)
  • Check all hoses for possible leaks
  • Verify pressure switch operation
  • Verify flow meter operation
  • Verify CCU operati
  • if you have any further questions please message me back and please remember to rank this opinion thanks again Rick

Kenmore 3.8 cu.... | Answered on Dec 11, 2010


F11= Communication between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the Motor Control Unit (MCU) cannot be sent correctly. The board needs to be replaced. Here is a link to it.
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Circuit-Board-or-Timer/1059575

Kenmore 3.8 cu.... | Answered on Nov 25, 2010


"Fdl" is a Door Latch Failure error code. This is an indication that either the door latch mechanism has failed, the Central Control Unit (CCU) has failed, or you have a problem with the interconnecting wiring between the two.

I recommend you refer to the tech sheet to determine how to determine which component is causing the error code.

Each one of these washers come with a technicial data sheet inside the unit. To access, you will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door. The panel comes off by locating and removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the washer. You may have to prop the front feet of the washer up for better access to the panel screws (a 2x4 works well for this). With the screws removed, the panel will dro down, then come off. The tech sheet will be located either directly behind the panel, or affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls. Included in the tech sheet are all the error code definitions, troubleshooting data, wiring diagrams and diagnostics procedures.

If you determine the door latch is defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575840-replacing_a_door_latch

NOTE: A simple test that you can try to see if the latch has failed, or if the problem is with the Central Control Unit (CCU) is to lightly tap on the control board with a screwdriver at the point where the door latch connectors. There's a relay on the board that controls the locking and unlocking of the door latch. Sometimes the relay sticks, causing the error code to appear. Sometimes this can free up a stuck relay.


To access the CCU, follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG the washer.

2. Remove the top panel of the washer by locating and removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then lift off.

3. The CCU is located top center behind the wash tub. Locate the connector plug(s) that run to the door latch. Unplug each connector one at a time and reseat them. Sometimes this can restore a connection where continuity is lost due to corrosion or oxidation.

4. Attempt to start a wash cycle and see if it works. If not, as the washer tries to lock the door latch, tap the board where the door latch connection(s) are.

NOTE: The washer usually makes 4 attempts to lock the door, before it errors out.

If none of these preliminary measures work, you may need to replace the CCU. If you can get the CCU to work, but still have to tap on it each time, you should replace it as well. This may get you by in the interim while awaiting parts (if you can get it to work this way).

Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

I have found these sites to be reputable and provide great service. Prices differ between them, so shop and compare. The first three sites on the list also include exploded view diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifying the part(s) you need. The Sears website will sometimes offer a refurbished CCU for much less.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Kenmore 3.8 cu.... | Answered on Nov 16, 2010


"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.

Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:

- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.

In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.


NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Kenmore 3.8 cu.... | Answered on Sep 28, 2010


There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Kenmore 3.8 cu.... | Answered on Sep 23, 2010


f06 error

Kenmore 3.8 cu.... | Answered on Sep 21, 2010


This advice is for Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet model front loading washers. If you experience a problem where the door becomes jammed and will not unlock or open, here's an easy way to gain access inside your washer WITHOUT calling the repairman.

1. Remove the lower panel under the door by loosening the three screws under the bottom edge on the front of the washer. HINT: If you prop up the front feet of the washer with some small blocks of wood, this will make access to the screws much easier.
2. With the screws removed, the lower panel should drop down then come off. If the panel sticks, a light tap on either side will knock it loose.
3. Reach your hand up inside the washer behind the front casing on the right-hand side. This is where the door latch assembly is located.
4. At the bottom of the door latch assembly is a small pull tab. This is the manual release for the door. Pull the tab straight down and the door will come open.

Sometimes these doors will not unlock for whatever reason. If there are no error codes being generated, this could have just been a momentary glitch. If you see "Fdl" "DLE" or "Fdu" error codes, these are usually indications of a failed door latch assembly and will require replacement.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Kenmore 3.8 cu.... | Answered on Sep 18, 2010


FH error indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water. Since you can see it filling, the error indicates low flow. A flow meter
in the unit detects if 10.5 gallons fills the tub within 8 minutes; yours must not be. This will turn off the inlet valves and the error code will be displayed. Check the following:

- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. This occurs when there is no air gap for the drain line at the standpipe. The standpipe is the drain pipe at the wall where the washer drain line is placed. With no air gap, a vacuum is created, and water will begin to drain from the wash tub prematurely. To prevent this from occurring, follow this advice:

•The standpipe should be 2 inches in diameter to allow a sufficient air gap between the top of the standpipe and the drain hose.
•The standpipe should be a minimum of 34" from the floor, and should not exceed 72 inches in height.
•DO NOT seal the top of the standpipe. Many consumers seal the standpipe in the belief that this will prevent overflows, or get rid of drain odors. This often creates more problems than solutions.
•DO NOT place the drain hose too far down into the pipe. Water stays in the drain trap area of the standpipe. If the end of the drain hose rests in this area, no air gap is created, and this can also cause siphoning. 4 to 6 inches is sufficient.
•The drain hose length must not exceed 10 feet in length. Excessive drain hose length can cause drain problems and back wash.
- Verify Drain Pump operation. Unplug the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. Open the pump access and remove, once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there's nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.


- Verify Flow meter operation and that the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly. Remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached. There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required in determining if the components are good or bad.


"F/H" indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water.

If you have NO water coming into the wash tub after 30 seconds the error code is displayed. Check the following:

- Inlet water valve may be clogged. Clean inlet screens if necessary.
- Make sure water taps are on.
- Check inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.

If you HAVE water filling the wash tub, and after 8 minutes, 10.5 gallons of water has been detected by the flowmeter, but there has not been a detected a Pressure Switch trip, the inlet valves are turned off and the error code is displayed. Check the following:

- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. Click the following link for instructions: http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning
- Verify Drain Pump operation.
- Verify Flowmeter operation.
- Verify the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly.

To access the Drain Pump - UNPLUG the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Propping the front feet of the washer up can make access much easier. I use a couple small blocks of wood. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. If not, click on the following link to check the pump for obstructions:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385845-checking_drain_pump_in_whirlpool_duet

To access the Flowmeter and Pressure Switch - remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached.

There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required determining if the components are good or bad.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
$%^&*

Kenmore 3.8 cu.... | Answered on Sep 18, 2010

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