20 Most Recent
Kenmore 15864/15862 Top Load Washer - Page 4 Questions & Answers
Put clothes in the washer, turned it on, it
First check the lid switch , if broken order new switch 1103351355/w10119828
to remove lid switch unplug washer from wall ,remove both end caps on console just pop them -off remove screws (2) lift console back ,remove both spring clips ,unplug switch lift cabnet out away from washer ,remove both screws from switch ,then check under cabnet to unscrew ground wire 5/16 screw (reminder watch how you pull cabnet off ) there are two tab on bottom rear that cabnet to line up cabnet
2/7/2011 5:16:37 AM •
Kenmore...
•
Answered
on Feb 07, 2011
When washer gets to spin cycle it spins but does't
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Two possibilities: since it will spin. None of the suggestions are very expensive.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the
transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
spinning.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:
Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.
See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.
You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd
Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.
See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf
1/20/2011 8:31:48 PM •
Kenmore...
•
Answered
on Jan 20, 2011
I had just replaced coupler on my kenmore top load
First, see the Sears parts list for your washer: (Always a good thing to have)
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-11023832100/0582/0153200?searchedModel=23832100&blt=
Next, see the following Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for these washers:
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
The first thing to check is:: Are you sure that you re-connected the Lid Switch. You have to disconnect the switch in order to pull the cabinet to get to the Motor coupler and (I've done it) you may have forgotten to re-plug the switch.
I'd also check to verify that the coupler is in place correctly.
Since very few "expensive" things go wrong with these washers, If the switch is in place, the motor coupler is fine and it fills, agitates and drains OK, the problem MAY be the "Neutral Drain Assembly" in the gearcase. It's an inexpensive but messy fix.
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
When ours had a similar problem, we looked at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) and noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).
You don't have to remove the drum.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.
Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of gear oil (auto parts store) , remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
1/16/2011 5:57:49 PM •
Kenmore...
•
Answered
on Jan 16, 2011
All of the water drains
It could be the micro switch on the lid. Lift the top cover off from the front to access the lid switch. Use an ohm meter to check the switch or temporally short the two switch leads together to see if the washer spins. If it does replace the switch. If it does not you need to service the transmission.
1/11/2011 3:32:33 PM •
Kenmore...
•
Answered
on Jan 11, 2011
My washer goes into spin cycle, but dont spin fast
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Two possibilities: since it will spin. None of the suggestions are very expensive.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the
transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
spinning.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:
Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.
See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.
You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd
Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.
See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf
1/10/2011 8:55:58 PM •
Kenmore...
•
Answered
on Jan 10, 2011
Kenmore elite 110.26922503 washing machine. The
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-elite-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-11026922503/0583/0153200?pathTaken=
Look at the section on the cabinet and console. You should see the lid switch:\
All you have to do is release the console and pull the cabinet to get to both parts of the switch:
See the following illustrated description of how to do it.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=0da65cea0e338fe930b1fde153a243f0
All told it's about a 15 minute job.
1/10/2011 8:46:25 PM •
Kenmore...
•
Answered
on Jan 10, 2011
I replaced my coupler on
what part are you stuck on?if you have the motor and pump back on next slide the frame back on,tilt the frame so the bottom front panel slides under the front frame part then drop the back down,,ssceck the back corners to make sure it locked in correctly,if you can pull out the side panel tilt the frame back and push the side panel in as it slides down,the sides usually line up,pop the metal clips back in place,plug in the lid switch harness,flip the top console back down and put in the two phillips screws in,plug it in and you should be good to go.
1/8/2011 5:29:57 PM •
Kenmore...
•
Answered
on Jan 08, 2011
I am not sure this is the washer I have but it is
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts. See the following for where to find the model number:
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=21&osCsid=c73289e58485c8752675ae1a35ff796b
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
1/4/2011 11:46:55 PM •
Kenmore...
•
Answered
on Jan 04, 2011
THE WATER IS NOT STOPPING,
There are two possible causes of the water not stopping. First is the water inlet valves stuck in the open position and second is the pressure switch not tripping when the correct water level is reached. Turn off or unplug the machine while it is filling and if the water doesn't stop, the water inlet valve/s is/are indeed stuck in the open position. Replacing the water inlet valve assembly should solve the problem.
But if the water stops, the problem is the pressure switch stuck in the empty position. Disconnect power then raise the console up and hinge it at the rear of the machine to access the pressure switch. It is the part with the small clear hose attached to it. Detach the hose and blow air down into it including the pressure switch itself. Replace the pressure switch if the problem persists.
Click on the link below for the detailed procedure in raising the console and removing the cabinet to access and replace the water inlet valve assembly.
Removing the Cabinet on a Whirlpool or Kenmore Top-Load Washing Machine
1/1/2011 2:41:46 AM •
Kenmore...
•
Answered
on Jan 01, 2011
Washer doesn't extract water or spin, whats wrong?
Check to see if the motor is running when the washer goes to the spin cycle.
If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
1/1/2011 2:16:42 AM •
Kenmore...
•
Answered
on Jan 01, 2011
80 series,wont spin and its
Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.
you may have a bad transmission, which is replaced as a whole unit, or a defective motor.
you will have to take off the covers of the unit. you may want to contact a service company, as ir will require special tools to remove the transmission, if that's defective.
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12/29/2010 5:50:47 PM •
Kenmore...
•
Answered
on Dec 29, 2010
Waters leaking bottom of machine
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
See the section for the basket and tub assembly's
I'd pull the cabinet in order to get to the hoses going to and from the pump first.
See the following:
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131
If the hoses are fine, check the shaft from the motor to the pump and check inside the pump to make sure the inlet and outlet aren't blocked.
I'd also check the gaskets at the bottom of the tub.
If you're reasonably mechanically inclined, these are easy fixes.
If you have to get to the gaskets at the bottom of the tub, see the following for how to remove the agitators, pump, motor, transmission, spin tube and basket.
(It sounds a bit complicated but it's not really that difficult.)
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.
Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.
As an aside, see the following Whirlpool Service Manual for top load direct drive washers.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
Depending on the problem (hoses or gasket) it's certainly less expensive than calling in a repair person.
12/14/2010 9:56:26 PM •
Kenmore...
•
Answered
on Dec 14, 2010
I have a series 90
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-11026912691/0582/0153200?pathTaken=
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Initial suggestion is a Lid Switch:
Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.
Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part and only requires you to access the console and remove the cabinet.
12/14/2010 9:55:01 PM •
Kenmore...
•
Answered
on Dec 14, 2010
The spin cycle makes a terrible noise and shakes
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
If you look at the section on "Machine Base Parts" you'll see a number of springs and vibration pads.
It's possible that one or more of the springs or pads has come loose or broken.
In order to get to them you have to remove the cabinet.
Here is a description of how to do it.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=90fdc122f6335c7c64f46f2ea1b1c887
Also see the Whirlpool Service Manual for top load washers. It has a troubleshooting section that describes the reasons for excessive walking or vibration.
WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf
If it's not the springs or pads, you may consider that the "Agitator Cams" in the transmission are not raising the Agitator Gear high enough (about 1/16" ) when the washer goes into spin mode.
See the description of what the Cams do in the Service Manual.
We had the same problem, excessive vibration and noise during the spin cycle.
In order to solve that problem, :
Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.
Pull the transmission.
Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.
Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.
Remove the transmission cover.
Pull off the spin pinion.
Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.
The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.
Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.
Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.
The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)
It sounds a bit complicated but it really isn't too bad and (For a $15 part, saved buying a $170 transmission.)
Following is the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models use the same part numbers.
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf
12/14/2010 9:49:22 PM •
Kenmore...
•
Answered
on Dec 14, 2010
How to check the coupler
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Look in the section for the motor, pump gearcase and you'll see the Motor Coupler.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
12/13/2010 10:11:30 PM •
Kenmore...
•
Answered
on Dec 13, 2010
My triple action agitator is
Hello,
Welcome to FixYa.
Based on your description, the problem is likely worn agitator dogs/gears. The new dogs alone part # 80040 or what I'd recommend, part # 285751 as a kit with new hub too.
These are common and available at most brick & mortar parts depot's as well as on-line vendor's such as "repairclinic.com" or "searspartsdirect.com" to name a couple.
You`ll need to remove the top of the agitator to replace them.
To remove the top cover of the agitator, it should lift off by prying up gently with a flat screwdriver or puddy knife.
Under this cap there actually is a screw/fastener,( bolt ) it just may or may not look anything like a typical screw. It could be a plastic piece with a square center and with the aid of a large flat screwdriver inserted in this location pressed into one of the corner`s in the square center (as to hold it still or turn it,
I usually hold it still while turning the agitator) at the same time as holding the bottom of the agitator, turn it counter-clockwise and it will come loose. It may be the bolt style and in that case just remove the bolt and lift it out.
On Kenmore full size washer`s built by whirlpool there are several types, ones with a 7/16", 1/2" or 9/16" bolt holding it in place, and the type I described.
This is a link to a helpful "how to" video...it may have slight differences to your washer, but essentially the same.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GQh8JLqVv8&feature=related
Thank`s for visiting FixYa. Good luck and let me know if I can assist you further.
Regards,
Macmarkus :)
12/13/2010 2:53:55 PM •
Kenmore...
•
Answered
on Dec 13, 2010
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