Top 20 Kenmore 15864/15862 Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

This is Sears product, call the Sear part center and tell them your model, they will find one for you. I thought it was a problem with the transmission than the timer, anyway you can try the timer first. You also can go online at www.searspartsdirect.com

Take the power plug off the wall. Be prepared for a lot of water before attempting the following. It doesn't spin because the unit is not draining water. It will not spin with water in it - must drain first. Check drain hose for kink,check exit pipe for blockage. Remove the front access panel, bottom front, screws beneath; if you find a pipe there with a cap -this is for draining water. Could be your "coin trap assembly" is blocked, therefore not allowing all the water to pump out. Remove the clamp (or unscrew) that connects the trap assembly to the pump and clean it out. If helped pl say so.

What is the model number of your unit?

Check the lid switch. If its a two wire switch you can connect the two wires together to
route around the switch for a test. If that works replace it. Call your local Appliance Parts store with your model no.
Thank you for using fixya
Leo Ponder
Please rate me if this helped.

Hello,
This tip i wrote previously about that exact problem will tell you what the cause of it overfilling could be http://www.fixya.com/support/r9936873-wrong_when_washer_keep_filling_all_time


GENE

Please look at this video for the repair for your washer.

any sears will have that part , if you don't have one near you, they have an on line service http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action they have a phone number too, or you can chat on line with them

its more than likely the coupler which is easy to fix and cheap. It is located between the motor and trans, once you take off the motor the coupler is made up of three pieces. Two white plastic pieces and one black. That should do the trick!

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
As you have already checked the hoses are not kinked and the in-line filters are clean, this is symptomatic of a malfunctioning cold water control valve. Sorry but it needs replacing and a service call to confirm that it is not something else- like the control board not feeding the correct voltage to the valve ;-0(
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

does it agitate???. if it does not then you need the motor coupling. you need to remove the cabinet, yes, I said the cabinet, remove the pump,motor and you got to the coupling. replace all part in kit. reassemble and test. go to the website of sears parts WITH THE COMPLETE MODEL. and get the part. model starts like 110.xxxxxxxxxxx

good luck to you.

this is mainly because of having some problem in water drainage system. so make your drainage syatem proper

You remove some screws on older models. Newer models simply have spring clips.
Video:
Your washer (I looked it up on sears parts) has a timer.
That timer has a knob that screws off and then you remove the dial indication escutcheon and the mounting screws can then be removed to swap out that timer.

This is the connection to the lid switch. You gotta unplug that to
remove the case so you can get to the inner components.
The connection has a green ground wire and 2 wires that go off
to the lidswitch. If the lid is shut and you cannot get an ohms reading
between them 2 then the lidswitch is bad.

With the case off you can start the washer and put it on spin mode and figure out if you have 120 volts to this connection for that lid switch. Placing a jumper between the 2 hot wires will allow you to wash or spin with the case off to hunt for noises and leaks while the machine is in operation.


I have a few pages I compiled on this direct drive washer with more videos and photos, service manual added.

How it works: direct drive washer

Top loading Kenmore notes

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

KENMORE top load, direct drive, neutral drain washers are made by Whirlpool.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Assuming that the springs are OK and that the vibration pads are in place and not worn, (See the Sears diagram or the following Whirlpool Service manual)

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

the problem points to the brake.

The washer uses a brake system to stop the basket at the end of the spin cycle.

Just like a brake on a car, it's designed to slip a bit so that the basket / car doesn't come to an abrupt halt.

Over time, the brake shoes can jam against the brake drum and bring the basket to a halt too quickly with a lot of noise.

A way to solve this (that I tried and it works) is to pull the basket tube / brake assembly and if the brake shoes look OK, spray a small amount of silicone spray on the inside of the brake drum.

Following is a description of how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor, transmission and basket drive tube on Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper direct drive washers.

As an aside, you don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've found that a short (10") pipe wrench hooked over one of the spanner nut tabs and tapped with a hammer will usually loosen the nut. Also, rather than hitting the Drive block directly with a hammer, put a short piece of wood under it first to protect it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137


Following are the Whirlpool Service manual for this type of washer and the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models are basically the same. Whirlpool (and Sears) have replacement brake pad / spring sets.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

First check the lid switch , if broken order new switch 1103351355/w10119828 to remove lid switch unplug washer from wall ,remove both end caps on console just pop them -off remove screws (2) lift console back ,remove both spring clips ,unplug switch lift cabnet out away from washer ,remove both screws from switch ,then check under cabnet to unscrew ground wire 5/16 screw (reminder watch how you pull cabnet off ) there are two tab on bottom rear that cabnet to line up cabnet

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-11029812890/0582/0153200?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=11029812890


and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the section for the basket and tub assembly's

I'd pull the cabinet in order to get to the hoses going to and from the pump first.

See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131

If the hoses are fine, check the shaft from the motor to the pump and check inside the pump to make sure the inlet and outlet aren't blocked.

I'd also check the gaskets at the bottom of the tub.

If you're reasonably mechanically inclined, these are easy fixes.

If you have to get to the gaskets at the bottom of the tub, see the following for how to remove the agitators, pump, motor, transmission, spin tube and basket.

(It sounds a bit complicated but it's not really that difficult.)

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.

As an aside, see the following Whirlpool Service Manual for top load direct drive washers.


https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Depending on the problem (hoses or gasket) it's certainly less expensive than calling in a repair person.

chnage the water valve for the water problem and if it doesn't drain you could have a bad lid switch or something going on with the pump,something could be stuck in it or it's bad.open and close the lid down if you don't hear a clicking sound it's broke or stick a screw driver into the hole that the lid switch closes into,keep the washer in spin and see if it drains when you push the screw driver down in the hole

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-elite-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-11026922503/0583/0153200?pathTaken=

Look at the section on the cabinet and console. You should see the lid switch:\

All you have to do is release the console and pull the cabinet to get to both parts of the switch:

See the following illustrated description of how to do it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=0da65cea0e338fe930b1fde153a243f0

All told it's about a 15 minute job.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If you look at the section on "Machine Base Parts" you'll see a number of springs and vibration pads.

It's possible that one or more of the springs or pads has come loose or broken.

In order to get to them you have to remove the cabinet.

Here is a description of how to do it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=90fdc122f6335c7c64f46f2ea1b1c887


Also see the Whirlpool Service Manual for top load washers. It has a troubleshooting section that describes the reasons for excessive walking or vibration.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


If it's not the springs or pads, you may consider that the "Agitator Cams" in the transmission are not raising the Agitator Gear high enough (about 1/16" ) when the washer goes into spin mode.

See the description of what the Cams do in the Service Manual.

We had the same problem, excessive vibration and noise during the spin cycle.

In order to solve that problem, :

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

It sounds a bit complicated but it really isn't too bad and (For a $15 part, saved buying a $170 transmission.)

Following is the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models use the same part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Hi, W/D here.
You probably have mineral deposits in your cold water supply line, or possibly a bad solenoid.
To check the water line, shut off the cold water line at the wall faucet. Disconnect the water hose from the faucet. Be careful as there will be some water pressure relieved when you do this. Once the hose is loose, look into the end of the hose. You should see a screen behind a hose washer. If there is debris on the screen, remove the washer and then the screen and clean it. If the screen is not located there (sometimes they get reversed), you'll need to pull the other end of the hose off of the washer and check that end in the same way.
Try this first, and if this doesn't fix you up, please repost, and we'll go through the solenoid removal process.
Best regards, --W/D--
Please feel free to rate our solutions so that we may continue to help others. Thanks.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C