20 Most Recent Kenmore 24632 Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

Main barring seems to have gone out

The problem may be with the capacitor in the machine. The model number you posted is not correct. It comes back as a electric range. Please look under the lid on the washer and get the model number off of it and I will be able to help you further.

Here is a link to the part your looking for.

See if you hear a click from the switch when you open or close the lid.

Sounds to me like the lid switch is bad. The timers hardly ever go out.
Here is a link to the part.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/WHIRLPOOL-Lid-switch-assembly-item-number-AP3100003.aspx

This video shows the whole banana being took apart down to the tub seal:

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part and only requires you to access the console and remove the cabinet.

If the washer will start with the jumper in place, I'd simply move the timer to the spin cycle and drain the water .

If you move the cycle selector switch to other cycles will it run. Possible bad selector switch.

Your pressure switch stops the water and allows it to start the next cycle. It's a switch either in the control panel or at the top of the tub with a small tube connected to it which goes down between the inner and outer tub. As the water level increases the air in the tube is compressed until there is enough pressure to make the switch stopping the water from filling. This tube can get clogged and the switch won't work. Remove the tube and clean it out. Blowing on the tube when it's still connected to the switch will make the switch if it's working and clear.

That is gonna be the lid switch

This video shows various styles of direct drive lid switches and how to access them
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump

removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the

washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

First, I'd verify that the switch is bad.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the section for the basket and tub assembly's

I'd pull the cabinet in order to get to the hoses going to and from the pump first.

See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131

If the hoses are fine, check the shaft from the motor to the pump and check inside the pump to make sure the inlet and outlet aren't blocked.

I'd also check the gaskets at the bottom of the tub.

If you're reasonably mechanically inclined, these are easy fixes.

If you have to get to the gaskets at the bottom of the tub, see the following for how to remove the agitators, pump, motor, transmission, spin tube and basket.

(It sounds a bit complicated but it's not really that difficult.)

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.

As an aside, see the following Whirlpool Service Manual for top load direct drive washers.


https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Depending on the problem (hoses or gasket) it's certainly less expensive than calling in a repair person.

Could be a bad timer or loose contacts.
Unplug the washer.
Open the control console.
Remove the wire harness connector from the timer and re-insert it.
Also advance your timer manually 360 degrees around several times. This can cause stuck contacts to work correctly.
If this does not correct your problem you will need a new timer.

Check the lid switch. That's a safety interlock that keeps the agitation from starting with the lid open. If the switch is bad, or if the actuator is not properly contacting the switch, then the machine will just sit there after it fills.

The problem may be attributed to either a leaking water inlet valve, or the associated internal hoses that run from the valve to the dispenser. The following link explains how to access the inside of the washer and/or replace the valve (if required):

http://www.fixya.com/support/r600647-replacing_water_inlet_valve_kenmore

If parts are required, you can purchase from any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
appliancepartspros.com
pcappliancerepair.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best deals.

If you have any questions abou this repair, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this helpful.

YOU HAVE RUBBER WHEELS THAT RIDE ALONG THE BASKET HOW OLD IS THE DRYER MAY NEED TO REPLACE ESPECIALLY IF IT IS A OLDER MODEL

Install a new timer

If your washer fills, agitates, but won't spin out to rinse, this is usually a symptom of a bad lid switch. The switch is usually located on the right hand side of the washer tub opening around the rim where the lid seats. There is also a plastic plunger on the lid that will push down on the switch when closed to make contact. On some models, the lid switch is located on the left hand side of the lid in the rear. It is controlled by an armature on the hinge of the lid closing the switch contacts. Check the switch by opening and closing the lid. If you do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound of the lid switch, the switch isn't working and/or the plunger may be broken off. If you can provide your exact model number (located under the lid of the washer along the rear rim of the tub opening) I can tell you which type of switch you have and the part number. Let me know if this is helpful. This is a very common problem with this model washer and a simple fix.