20 Most Recent Kenmore 22642 Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

Go to sears web site to find out what exactly this code stands for. Sears Online In Store Shopping Appliances Clothing More

Hello Jye, It does sound like either the clutch is bad or the Motor coupler is bad. I have included a video showing how to replace the coupler Kenmore Washing Machine Model 110 22642100 11022642100 110 22642100 Parts The coupler is about $18 and the Clutch is about $48 Good Luck! Rich Lilja

-Sounds like the timer is out. Check it out and replace it Good luck Mai

The manual for repairing is a PDF http://allrepairmanuals.com/kenmore-top-load-washer.htm?model_number=11022662 Cheers Sir dana Taylor [email protected]

SOUNDS LIKE YOU MEAN THE CAM DOGS IN THE AGITATOR ( THE PLASTIC PC) No agitation? first use a multi meter and check ur water pressure switch? that is what sends the machine the message to start wash cycle? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. (where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. . If both check ok then next CHECK the motor coupler (a bad couplercan be checked by looking under the machine and taking note if there is a black residue on floor, look at coupler located between the motor and tranny, and see if it is broken up or missing any parts? Try to turn shaft by hand and notice if it does not engage tub? ) or belt if belt driven. Check for loose, broken or worn belt . Then check the door switch with a multi meter for continuity OHMS when door closed and infinity when door is opened , and if there is a little movement on wash cycle in 1 direction only then check the cam dogs in agitator. Also check THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub) Remember to check the agitator spline as well. for worn broken teeth By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If you look at the section on "Machine Base Parts" you'll see a number of springs and vibration pads.

You should be able to tell where the spring that you have connects.

In order to get to them you have to remove the cabinet.

Here is a description of how to do it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=90fdc122f6335c7c64f46f2ea1b1c887


Also see the following Whirlpool Service Manuals for top load washers.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

Fill switch is either dirty or has failed. That is that is the problems that it could be. There is also a tube that goes to the same switch and it is a pressure switch and tells the washer to stop filling when it's full. The switch may have failed or the hose came off this switch. The switch is behind your panel. Be sure to please unplug the power from this washer before working or checking this. Don't want no accidents to happen.

Check the lid switchand then check the timer

April, You say you are suspicious that the smoke could have originated from the motor, BUT have you confirmed it? Have you tried running a short cycle without a load to see if the spin cycle rattles the machine or whether the machine works? Watch for smoke and turn off the machine immediately if you see or smell burning. If the motor is burnt, I think replacing should not be an option but rather replacing the machine should be considered.

I have seen this problem numerous times on service calls. It sounds like you have a siphoning problem. The key symptom is the wash tub that continously attempts to fill, but cannot achieve the proper water level. This is often caused by not having an air gap on your drain line, improper placement of the drain hose, or a standpipe that is too small in diameter. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning

If you place the drain hose in the standpipe too far, or seal the top of the standpipe, this can cause a vacuum which will cause the symptoms you describe. A tell-tale sign will be a sucking noise as you pull the drain hose from the standpipe. Read through the link I provided. If this does not correct your problem please post back and let me know before you rate this solution. This way I can try to assist you further. I hope this corrects your problem.

There is a water level sensor in the tube and it might be plugged. IT could also be the load selector or the control module.

slick, first see if the hose came off the pressure switch. Just grab the end caps on each end of the control panel and pull them off, they snap on. Remove the two consol screws, pull foward and flip the consol up. See if the hose came off. If it did, just put it back on and use a zip tie to secure it. See attached photo. Catriver...post back.

Check your lint filter and your dryer duct that goes out back of dryer to outside . Might have partial clog