20 Most Recent Nikon AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 ED Nikkor Lens Questions & Answers

generally when a zoom extends to max, it defaults to a higher aperture number - which means a smaller hole that lets in less light. The auto settings then increase the ISO (light sensitivity) to compensate. If you hit the high end of the ISO for your camera, you get grainy photos. Try the same 'full zoom' on a bright day - and you should see the difference. The ultimate cure? Stick to brighter situations or spend money on a body with a higher ISO sensitivity or a lens with a fixed aperture. The least expensive approach is to shoot in situations with more light.

clean the connection surface using pencil eraser heads. on both lenses and camera.

If you dismantle it yourself, you are far more likely to end up with a non-working kit of lens parts. It is unlikely that Nikon would make a manual available to anyone other than qualified repair technicians. Take it to a repair centre, pay the nice man, and get a guarantee.

Turn the aperture ring on the lens to its smallest setting (largest f/number). You can control the aperture from the camera body, the same was as with a lens without an aperture ring.

The 70-300mm lens won't focus closer than about 5 feet (1.5 meters). If you need to get closer, there are several alternatives. Here are some in descending order of cost (and picture quality).

A special "macro" or "micro" lens. Some lenses are designed to focus closer than others.

Extension tubes. These are tubes that fit between the lens and the camera body. By putting more distance between the camera and the lens, the focus point moves closer to the camera.

Close-up lenses. These are like filters in that they screw onto the front of the lens, but act like a magnifying glass.

Your lens is a cheaply-built kit lens intended to be sold as part of an initial body and lens kit.

It's not built badly or with especially poor quality materials, but it's certainly not to the same standard as their non-kit lens offerings and so is not as long-lasting or robust as regular Nikon lenses.

In your case, the focus drive mechanism has broken, possibly due to one of more motor pinion teeth being stripped. If the lens has not been dropped or otherwise misused and is still under warranty then return it to a Nikon service centre for a free repair. If outside of the warranty, then in most countries Nikon offer fixed price repairs, but you'll find it more economical to simply buy a replacement lens. What's failed is not suited to a DIY repair

You can commonly buy new ex-display examples and definitely fully-functional used examples of your lens for a less than the typical fixed repair price. As you don't state which country/stat you live in, I'm unable to provide example prices.

Unless you have the necessary tools to properly dismantle and assemble the lens that job is best suited for those that do. Even if you did manage to get it apart the chances of getting it back together and aligned properly while working on the kitchen table would be slim to none.

Thanks for the additional info.

First, an apology: I misread the lens description, sorry. If you have the "AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 ED Nikkor" then the lens DOES have an aperture ring at the rear of the lens. If this is the case, then your D50 is compatible and all you need to do is turn the aperture ring on the lens until it's at the minimum f32 setting. The "FEE" message on your D50 should then vanish. When set this way, you control the aperture setting on the lens via the camera body controls. The command wheel alone adjusts the aperture when in Aperture Priority mode, and in Manual or Shutter Priority modes you need to first press the " /-" button behind and to the right of the shutter release before using the command wheel. There's even a handy little printed icon of a lens diaphragm to remind you of the secondary function of this button.

If your lens model is the "Nikon 70-300mm f/4-5.6G" then like a G lenses it lacks an aperture ring and so can only be controlled by Nikon bodies which operate the aperture from the body alone, like yours. So if you're getting the FEE error with a G lens then there's most likely a common fault which occurs with Nikon bodies with a small switch beside the lens mount. In the picture (courtesy and copyright of Digital Photography Review), the switch is at the 8 o'clock position.


This switch is activated either when a non-G lens aperture ring is turned to the smallest setting or when a G lens is correctly mounted. It is possible for the G lens to be damaged in such a way that the switch doesn't get activated but it's rare. If the switch is broken the camera body will need a repair.

Hope this answers your question, but if not add further comments. If it has answered your problem then please let me know by rating my reply.

First thing: Don't try to zoom it at all anymore. The mechanism inside is broken or somehow disconnected, and you can make it worse by trying. Please take it in for repairs as a camera pro will need to look at it.

Your motor may have gone bad. Try sending it to PhotoTech Repair Service in NYC. They are Nikon authorized, and can do the repair under warranty if you still have it. Also if you join they're facebook page, they will give you a 10% discount.
Here is the facebook page link, it has everything you need to send it in.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/New-York-NY/PhotoTech-Repair-Service-Inc/102527215194

Way, Way Over exposed Gracey. Read the manual for the mystery Nikon Camera and set the camera to Automatic Exposure. Film 'Speed' is measured in ASA Rating, 200 ASA would be standard for outside, 400 ASA for lower light, up to 1200 ASA for very low light like candle light. The higher the ASA Rating, the more grain you will get in an image. In the old days, we used a light meter set to the actual film speed of the roll of film in the camera and the sensor in the light meter told you what to to set the lens aperture and shutter speed to. Now with digital cameras, it is all automatic, or you can choose to go with manual exposure.FULL 'make model (what it is)' in all questions please first 3 words.GoogleNikon (model) manualRead it it LEAST 3 times and at least once with the camera in your lap. Use the camera every day for a week and read it again...

On Nikon cameras this isn't normally an error code. Have you got a memory card in the camera? Check that it isn't nearly full. r07 common comes up as an information prompt referring to the memory space in the camera. '07' being 7 shots remaining. If the card isn't full try this. Turn the camera off. Remove the battery. Remove the memory card. Leave it like that for at least 15 minutes. Connect the memory card to a computer or a laptop and check you can still look at and move the images that are on there. This is to check the memory card isn't corrupted (developed a fault).

• The "r07" message on a Nikon camera typically indicates the number of available shots in the camera buffer. It's not an error but rather an informational message. The number "r07" means that there are seven shots available in the camera buffer before it fills up. This is a normal part of the camera's operation and doesn't necessarily indicate a problem. It's more noticeable when you're shooting in continuous or burst mode. If you experience issues beyond this, it's advisable to check your camera settings and consult the camera manual. https://caranddriver.com/

it will not fit, but rather than ask why did you not just try it.

Try replacing Battery. For further rectification, see page 151 of user manual error messages. S8000_ENnoprint.pdf (nikon-cdn.com)

User's Manual

nikon-cdn.com https://cdn-10.nikon-cdn.com > SB-910_EN PDF The SB-910 is a high-performance Speedlight compatible with Nikon Creative. Lighting System (CLS) with a guide number of 34/48 (ISO 100/200, m). (111.5/157.5, ... 136 pages

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Nikon ' Download Center https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com > products Download product manuals. Download product manuals. Title Language Size. User's Manual English 3.53 MB Download. Manual Download Agreement. ..

No unfortunately not. Camera repairs are very complex and require special tools. They are also repaired in a clean room with filtered air by men and women of full cover, coveralls. No fluff or specs on the sensors. Help here including a good answer on JustAnswer. https://www.google.com/search?q=Nikon+Coolpix+S570+won%27t+focus+in+any+mode+on+any+object ..

this error message is usually caused by a low battery. Here are some steps you can try to fix the issue: Remove the battery from your camera. Fully charge the battery using the Nikon D80 battery charger. Remove the memory card and reset the camera by using the reset option in the menu or by pressing the reset switch on the camera's body, under the connector cover . If the error persists, Nikon recommends waiting for one or two days before sending the camera in for inspection

From the sites I've looked at al say this about f.... Most of the time, this F Error message is limited to Nikon DLSR cameras. This particular error message appears when the camera is not able to communicate with the lens. To fix F- error message, clean the contacts on the rear of the lens with the help of microfiber cloth and make sure that the lens is locked into its place. If the problem still persists, then try different lenses to identify whether the problem is in the lens or camera. If you are not able to fix it by yourself, then you can take your camera to the service center. I'm not a camera buff but I thought I'd pass this on. other sites too.... https://duckduckgo.com/?q=err+low+f4.8+on+Nikon+d80&t=ffab&atb=v159-1&ia=web Best to you.