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Skil Circular Saw 7 14" HD77 Worm Drive Questions & Answers
Skill Wormdrive HD77 saw sparks
you have a problem with worn brushes or the armature might be failing. UNPLUG the tool and remove the brushes to check their condition length and look at the face of the brush for any unusual wear. Then look into the brush tubes themselves and slowly rotate the armature for discoloration/raised commutator bars.
New brushes are sparking real bad
It sounds like the armature is bad. It should have an even dark ring around the bars of the armature commutator where the brushes ride. If one or two of the bars is discolored above and/or below that it could easily be bad. It could also be pitted between a couple of bars. Normally the space between the bars is even all the way around and nice and "clean cut" looking. If you have access to an armature growler you can test the armature. Hope that helps.
Skil HD77 that blows breaker
there is a direct short somewhere, recheck the plug end for correct wiring and if OK then it is in the cord or the motor itself, I would think the cord or plug first.
What kind of oil do
They sell tubes of oil for the saws. If you can't find it You can probably use 90weight gear oil. the stuff in the tube smells about the same.
No power when i squeeze
Troubleshoot the problem. It could only be a few things: 1) defective trigger/switch, in which case you can replace it by getting the part from a specialty tool store; 2) the cord itself, either where it plugs into the saw or at the plug end there may be a loose wire; 3) you've accidentally cut or nicked the cord--easily done--and there is a severed wire.
When I depress the switch the blade moves 1/60th
I would like you to make sure that the brushes are indeed touching the armature. It is possible that the brush holder is not allowing free brush movement through them, and that would cause this problem. If that checks ouf fine, I would make sure the cord is in good condition, and you are certain you dont have an intermittant break in the cord. Your next step will be checking the condition of the field leads, and continuity of the bars on the armature. Pull the brushes, and remove the 4 long bolts that hold the motor housing on to the saw. There will be another bolt that connects the housing to the upper guard. After you slide that back(if you meet resistance it is the 608 bearing on the back of the armature). The armature will stay fixed to the rest of the tool. You will then take a continuity tester and test from one copper communtator bar to another, until you have tested them all. I would imagine you have a dead bar on the armature, and you will know this when you test between it, and another bar, and there is no response from the tester. Let me know if this works. If not, please post back.
Not finding what you are looking for?
it should also have the words "double insulate somewhere.
