Behringer XENYX 2442FX Mixer - Page 11 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Sounds like a dodgy fader, not worth fixing as even though the part should be cheap the labour is horrific and not a DIY job.

Quick answer is it's not worth it, but there is a place in Germany where you can get them but it'll cost you about E150 plus P&P. You could buy a working secondhand one for about the same. They are renowned for taking out the PSU when the amp frys so I would suggest either returning it to behringer if you are really intent on getting it fixed or putting the money towards a dynacord or similar which will last you for years and pay for itself over and over again as well as sound a lot better. If the rest of the mixer works why not just use it with a power amp until you can get a replacement?

You'll need 2-3 INSTRUMENT CABLES to do this. There are TWO ways to try your connection to make it work: FIRST WAY: try to connect it to the FRONT of the amp. DO NOT try to connect the pedal to the rear of the unit where it says "FX INSERT." Use one cord from your instrument to the "IN" port on the pedal. Use the second cable to run from the "OUT A" port from the pedal and connect to the "INPUT" on the amp itself. This should work without fail. This is the easiest way to see if the pedal is even working correctly or not. SECOND WAY: If you want to loop it through the back, then you'll need two (2) cables (instrument) to do this. One cable to go from AMP "Insert" to the "IN" port on the pedal. One cable to go from the "OUT A" on the pedal, and back into the "Return" port on the amp. If neither way works, then you've likely gotten a bad pedal. Unfortunately, Behringer pedals are not known to be as high quality as some of their other gear. Best of luck!

and the problem is........?

ES 315 is 200W RMS 60-15KHz but not sure if this is -10db or -3db as it doesn't say 15in heavy duty bass driver, 8in specially designed mid range and 4in tweeter. 34.5Kg 730mm x 620mm x 375mm These are a very old design and not very efficient and you probably would get better value from a cheap new pair.

download the program for the musical instruments from google

if you lucky the fuse is burned.... in the back of the console thar a hiden fuse chack is it burnd

I could explain why but, it's simply that Behringer is bottom line equipment, these days, that provides no support and has their components special made. Generic replacement parts can't be used because the values of them are not allowed to be known to the consumer. This means you can't get the equivalent parts to fix it. Sorry, that is my experience with Behringer. I've never been able to find parts for any of these.

Hi,36V center tapped plus 48V phantom power, this is, 18-0-18VAC plus 0-48VAC transformer, this should be the correct voltages...

Those changes required may have to be done internally. Look for a very small switch on the back, probably flat requiring you to use a screwdriver or toothpick to move would be it, IF it is external.

Step 1:

Overheating is typically caused by poor ventilation. The best thing is to make sure that you --

Step 2:

have plenty of space ALL-AROUND the amp

Step 3:

Fan(s) are working correctly (should always be on).

Step 4:

Boards are clean -- may require opening up housing and spraying with compressed air.

Step 5:

Be sure that the speakers you're pushing are acceptable to amp's output.

Step 6:

If still overheating, may require service.

Since it has its own amp built-in, I'm not sure I follow. Why would you "need" another amp to "power it?" Please be more specific. Thanks.

No sound at all, or just to the "r" (rear / right?) speaker? Can you be a bit more specific? Will be glad to help.

Hi! in my xvamp, a stucked microbutton caused the E2 error. Just replace the strucked button... Maybe it helps you

The compressor is a really good idea and should be connected between your mixer and your amplifiers. Your "integrated" mixer/amp is a bit tricky in that you will have to "insert" the compressor in the signal path.If you have the "console" model....1. "Main 1 Out" left and right to the input of your compressor and the output of the compressor connected to the "PWR Amp Insert."2. What is known as Tip, Ring, Sleeve patch cable and plug connected ONLY to the "PWR Amp Insert." This type connection breaks out into a "Input" and "Output" using a single 1/4 stereo plug.If you have the "square box with knobs on front" model1. "Main Output" to input of comressor and compressor outputs to "Input to Main" (aka "AUX IN").Check your owners manual for hookup details or suggestions and remember, all outputs feed inputs and all inputs feed outputs.

First try another cable. Then one more. Then take a mufti-meter and test the mic cable pins to see if you are actually getting those +15 to +48 phantom volts. On Balanced XLR connectors Pin 1 is ground/shield. Pin 2 is HOT. Pin 3 is cold. Measure pin 2 positive and Pin 1 to ground at the mic end of cable. See if you are actually are getting phantom. Balanced TRS connector is tip hot, ring cold, sleeve ground. You should always have a couple of digital multi-meters with audible conductance testing for all connections, and good batteries on hand when working with studio equipment. It saves a lot of headaches such as a bad cable. Even a brand new one could be bad! After eliminating cables...I tear the mixer apart. I know it may be too much but, when I Engineer a new studio for someone I make sure all cables are out of the way and cut and soldered to the length of each cables designation. That way they are all out of the way and they never get the chance to go bad. Also save time by setting up your studio so everything is mostly a permanent installation, that way you do not have to keep re-connecting things. Only a new piece of gear once in a while. Good luck!rockinbadboy-

usually with a blown speaker you will get sound but it sounds like there is an abundance of paper very loose on the speaker, so if there is no sound at all try taking the box apart if you are familiar with stuff like this and check to see if there are any loose wires or blown capacitors

left channel control pot dirty most likely. is there a slider type pot on channel? this would have to be cleaned with dustoff spray.

It is possible one of the IC's failed.You can apply an audio signal to the input and with a small amplifier with speaker you can trace through the circuit to locate which IC failed.The input to the small amp split iattach 2 wires pr test least leads from a meter, ground the ground lead of the little amp to the mixer chassis, and then with the other wire/test lead trace the defective channel 1 IC at a time until you lose signal.If you download the IC's data sheet, Most likely a 4558 typse, you can speed the testing by simly testing at the amplifier inputs and output of each section of the IC. When you lose the signal, you found the offending IC- use the other channel for compairison.Digikey has a site search, so you can enter the number on the IC to find if they carry it, or a similar IC, and who makes it- on the item specification page there is a link to the datasheet. While they may not have all of them, they have quite a few.http://www.digikey.com

could possibly be the volume switch, try changing the switch with one that you hardly use to eliminate the problem. any further probs just let me know. hope this helps