Top 10 Mitsubishi WD-52525 52" Rear Projection HDTV Questions & Answers

i have the same tv i got it for free from my work it was a return there's no picture or sound but the green light blinks on the timer light i took it to a tv repair place ive researched the problem alot most forums said it would be the dm module or the capacitors on it but this guy is sayn its not that and its not the lamp but it could be the color wheel or some balance thing he was bein an a hole about it i paid for a diagnostic and he said hes not gonna look at anymore cuz i dont sound interested in payn what he says MIGHT be the problem and i dont want to get screwed for a bunch of money any tips??? thank you

I RECENTLY HAD A LAMP ISSUE THAT MAY ASSIST. I HAVE A MITSUBISHI WD-52525 52" DLP. I HAVE OWNED THE UNIT JUST OVE THREE YEARS. THE UNIT INDICATED THAT THE LAMP NEEDED TO BE REPLACED WHEN THE UNIT WAS TURNED ON. I ORDERED A LAMP AND BEFORE IT CAME IN THE UNIT QUIT WORKING. I REPLACED THE LAMP AND WHEN I POWERED UP THE UNIT I GOT A STEADY YELLOW INDICATION AND THEN A SOLID RED. MITSUBISHI TECH ADVICE STATED THAT I MAY HAVE BEEN SHIPPED A BAD REPLACEMENT LAMP. I SENT THE LAMP BACK AND ANOTHER WAS SENT TO ME. THAT LAMP ALSO GAVE THE SAME RESULTS. I CALLED CHUCKS ELECTRONIC REPAIR AND A VERY KNOWLEDGABLE TECHNICIAN RESPONDED TO MY HOME. IT WAS DISCOVERED THAT THE POWER SUPPLY BOARD WAS BAD AND THAT THE LAMP NEVER NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. I SPOKE WITH REPRESENTATIVES AT MITSUBISHI SEVERAL TIMES AND THIS WAS NEVER EXPLAINED TO BE A POSSIBITLY. THE TECHS AT MITUSBISHI BASICALLY JUST READ FROM THE OWNER MANUEL AND HAD NO IDEA WHAT THEY WERE DOING.

Even if you replace the capacitors already mentioned in this
thread, you may still suffer from the Green LED of Death. Here is how Bronson279 helped me resolve the
problem. But note that it involves
adding a switch to your tv set and requires a bit of soldering ability and the
willingness to void your warranty. BUT
you can save big $$$$ on sending the set out for repair.

Here is my solution-
After replacing several bad capacitors (you can get replacement capacitors
from Mouser electronics on line by the way.. be sure to order the same capacitance
values and same or higher voltage rating and be sure they are rated for 105
degrees C.) I still had the dreaded G.L.O.D. Note that the first time I plugged it in
after taking it apart the G.L.O.D was not there and it powered up
normally. But when I had to unplug the
set to fully re assemble it, it came back.




The issue is caused by both the FMT board (formatter) and
the DM (Digital Module) board’s microprocessors tying to establish
communications with each other. Somehow a race condition gets started with each
thinking that the other board needs to be reset and then starting the boot
process over again.





You need to interrupt this cycle with a switch. Buy a DPDT switch from radio shack (or Mouser
Elec…) and again take apart your electrical chassis (If you have it apart
replacing bad caps you might as well add the switch or you may end up having to
disassemble the whole thing again.) On
the FMT board along the top edge near the input connector side of the chassis
there is a four wire connector labeled “FC”.
It has two black wires and 1 orange and one Brown wire. Leave the black wires connected and cut the orange and brown ones about an
inch from the connector. Solder four 12
inch wires onto the ends (one on the source side brown, source side orange and
one on the connector side brown and connector side orange) use heat shrink tubing to cover the solder
connection points. (If you can’t get tubing, then electrical tape will do, but
make sure the joints can’t short out to each other or the electrical chassis.) Now take the brown and orange wires from the
connector side and solder those to the middle two terminals of the DPDT switch
(one on each side not both to both terminals) Then pick one side of the outside
terminals of the switch and solder the source side brown and orange wires to
the terminal across from the same color (brown across from brown and orange
across from orange) See the diagram below.
The idea is to connect the wires normally when the switch is closed and
break the connection when the switch is thrown the other way. Before soldering
the wires to the switch add a piece of heat shrink tubing to wire so that you
can cover the solder point up after it is assembled.
































Now re-assemble the electrical chassis and route the switch/wires
outside the chassis (I snipped a hole along the edge of the top fan shield to
get the wires out.) and put it back in the TV.
You need to also get the switch to the outside of the TV somehow (I
drilled a ½ inch hole in the plastic cover to snake the switch through but you
can do it however you like)





Here is how to use it-
From a fresh plug in- throw the switch to the OPEN position (the wires
are not connected) plug in the TV, the green LED should stop blinking after 60
secs like it is supposed to. Once it stops, flip the switch the other way so
the wires are connecting. Hit the power
button. The TV should turn on- your done!
Yeah!

From a plugged in, hmmm my power must have gone out,
state. Assuming you have the GLOD, flip
the switch to the open position, hit the reset button on the front of the tv,
wait for the blinking to stop, flip the switch back closed and turn the TV on
normally… Again you are done…

Note that the first time you turn on the TV you may have to
flip the switch the other way (if the TV won’t turn on even without a blinking
LED) This means that the switch was open and you need to have it closed to get
it to work. If you tried turning on the
TV with the switch open, start over by following the reset button procedure
above.

Note this is much easier to do than it sounds. Also note that it helps if you have the
repair manual. Its titled V26 Repair
Manual –full This is nice to have
because it has a wiring interconnect diagram also which details all the
connector placements

I finally got around to dismantling the TV. This is no mean task. The chassis is tethered to the rest of the set my over a dozen wiring harnesses and a few of these cannot be disconnected near the chassis but instead require removing the “right support” near the air duct and taking the shield off the lamp ballast. Once the chassis assembly is out, it is a further significant task to disassemble it to get at the various PWBs (POWER, FMT and DM) having the suspect caps. I’m sure reassembling everything will be a fun job!

I have not yet had a chance to fix and reassemble but I wanted to post this no as I’m not sure when I will get around to it.

I did find six of the fourteen known-problem caps to be visibly bulging -- both 3300s and two of the four 1000s on the PWR PWB plus two of the four 1000s on the FMT PWB (see photos below). Ironically of the four 1000s on the DM PWB, which I have heard are the most common to go bad, were bulging and I considered skipping these as the DM it is the toughest board to extricate from the chassis, however I figured I had come this far and I would just as soon replace all twelve 1000 uFs as the parts cost $0.23 and I really never want to have to do this again.

If I had to bet, the two 10V 3300uF caps on POWER board, which were actually leaking black goo, are the actual culprits, but with four of the 1000 uFs also bulging it is probable only a matter of time until they failed as well.

Here is the POWER PWB with the known-problem caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A51, C9A52, C9A61 and C9A62) highlighted:

here's the FMT PWB with the known-problem caps (C8F19, C8F21, C8F22 and C8F27) highlighted:


and the DM PWB with the known-problem caps (C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4) highlighted:

Here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A52 and C9A62) on the POWER PWB:



And here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C8F19 and C8F27) on the FMT PWB:

I have a 2003 mitsubishi WS-55711. While watching TV the other day it just shut off. When I pressed the power button, the green light turned on for approximately 3 secs, then shuts off. I've attempted to simply unplug it for a period of time in hopes that it would possibly reset. However, the same thing happens. Is this a problem I can fix on my own or does a professional need to fix it? If I do have a pro fix it, what is the likelyhood that it will happen again? Should I just invest in a new TV? Thanks

cutta, you will most often hear a click on boot then the fans start up and lamp will then fire. The picture will start to show up....at what point does it shut off? and do you hear a click when the tv is turning off? Is it the complete tv shutting down, fans and everything that turns off? Do you see any lights on the the front panel "POWER", "STATUS" or "LAMP", what are they doing? If you see a Power, Status or Lamp light after it shuts off the below are what they mean if there is an issue. POWER - STATUS - LAMP - CONDITION/ISSUE: Off - Yellow - Off - Temp. high/dirty filter/excess room temp Off - Off - Yellow - 4000 hrs. Lamp usage warning Off - Off - Blink Yellow - Lamp Cover open Off - Blink Yellow - Off - Air Filter Cover open Off - Off - Red - Lamp failure (failed to turn On or broken) Off - Blink Red - Off - Fan Has Stopped Off - Red - Off - Circuit failure (short) or DVI cable disconnected If you want to check for the last "Error Code", after you first turn the TV on, by pressing the front panel ?DEVICE? and ?MENU? buttons at the same time and holding them for 5 seconds, it activates the Error Code Mode. The ?Power LED Light? blinks/flashes (1/2 sec delay) and then flashes again denoting a two digit Error Code indicating no problem or an error has occured since the last Initalization. i.e. "Power light" blinks 3 times (1/2 second delay) and then blinks 4 times then 1 sec delay and repeats a few times. This would mean "Error 34 - Lamp abnormality". See below for error codes..... Error Code - Description or issue 12 - No Error detected, check Power Supply 32 - Lamp Cover is open 33 - Air Filter Cover is open 34 - Lamp abnormality 36 - Light Engine (DMD or LAMP Fan stopped) 37 - Exhaust or Lamp Ballast Fan stopped 38 - Lamp temperature high 39 - DMD temperature high 41 - Short is detected 44 - DVI cable between FMT & Engine disconnected. Sorry for the long answer but it was an open ended question.

Here's something that might also be useful. After you turn on the set, and get the regular red blinky lights, hold down the Device and Menu buttons together for about 5 seconds.
The Power light will start to flash in a two digit sequence.

For example, 3 flashes, then 7 flashes = 37.

Here are the error codes, and the corresponding problem:

12 = No error detected, check power supply.
32 = Lamp Cover is open.
33 = Air filter cover is open.
34 = Lamp abnormality
36 = Light Engine (DMD or Lamp Fan stopped)
37 = Exhaust or Lamp Ballast Fan stopped
38 = Lamp Temperature High
39 = DMD Temperature High
41 = Short is detected
44 = DVI cable between FMT and Engine disconnected

Good day, husker_shoe;
Good question, but I'm not THE FAMOUS "TECHMAN" but I will try to help anyway. The DM board is normanlly on the left side TV looking from the back. It has a shield around it, remove. The caps are big and black, they look the replacements(only ones on board). Here's what says about this issue:

If the LED keeps blinking with connector FC removed suspect a problem on the DM PCB (part # 934C116002). (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) On the DM
Good Luck, big IRISH. ps hope this helpful!
PCB (part # 934C116002) check C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4 (1000 UFD, 16V, 105C), if any are bad, replace all of them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C). (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) On the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002) check C8F19, C8F21, C8F22, and C8F27 (16V 1000 UFD 105C), if any are bad, replace all of them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C).
It is not an easy job, it will take some time but since you have it apart there is another problem that will accure so might as well do this too:
Tile or block pattern with no video or OSD. Check D8F00 and D8F01 part # 264P828010, also check C8F26 and C8F29 part # 141P148000 (1 uFD, 25 V) on the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002).
All the parts have location numbers like C8F29 that will tell you what and where these parts are.
Good luck, big IRISH. PS; I hope this helpful.

The colorwheel is your problem. To confirm this, unplug the tv, then listen thru the air vents in the back as you plug the tv in. You will probably hear a ticking sound. If you do, that is the colrwheel. If the colrwheel is working, youwill be able to hear it "spin up". It will be a sudden high pitch whine. Let me know if I can be of further assistance

do the lines go from top to bottom, and are they about 1 inch apart? or do they move diagonally across the screen?