Pentax ME Super 35mm SLR Camera - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

On those old M series cameras its best to use a coin to unscrew battery cover. 10c piece is about right size. Right hand thread so anti clockwise. If its to stuck try a drop of anti seize or Penatrol, just a tiny amount and don't spray all over. Same if its corroded. If that is still stuck you can drill 2 small holes into the cover, insert 2 small bits of stiff wire and put a screw driver between them and unscrew that way. Replacement covers are available on ebay.

This is a known fault with this retro model, I'm afraid - over time, the plastic gears get worn, and eventually fail. Solutions are mentioned on the Pentax Forums.

Take the lens to a repair facility. When you've recovered from the shock of the cost, look on Ebay for a replacement. FYI, it may be better to get an f1.7 lens instead - far far cheaper, and the f1.4 was notorious for less than optimum optics wide open. You'll only lose half a stop or so, which is negligible.

There is not any in camera developing. This is not a digital camera it is a film camera wherein we put a film cartridge with a specified number of shots into the camera then thread the film leader to the takeup spool, close the camera advance the film a few frames, then we are ready to shoot. After the specified number of shots, 24 or 36, film is rewound into the canister, camera back opened film canister removed then taken to the lab for processing.

Take the lens off, is the mirror stuck up? If it is then thats why you cant see through the view finder. It should come down after you take a photo.You can try to gently push the mirror down. This is caused by the mirror box warping due to heat or being dropped. Try it a few times and if it still sticks, more expensive to get fixed than the camera is worth so look for a 'new' camera on ebay. do not spray anything like CRC or WD40 into it, makes things worse.

I really loved your camera type though it was 35 years ago I had one. I envy you. Not sure why you should be having trouble unless you have a bad film. Have you tried more than one film? If the film cassette has dropped in properly and is laying flat, the film rewind has to be raised, I think, to allow that and the sprocket holes in the film are properly engaged with the sprockets and the free end of the film engaged onto the film wind-on reel then everything should be well below the door aperture. I would wind on maybe a frame and fire the shutter prior to closing the film door just to observe everything moving as it should and then close the door. The last quarter inch the door must be closed against the pressure of a spring but if the little spring-loaded device behind the door which is intended to keep the film perfectly flat against the camera body is working correctly only a light pressure will be needed to compress those springs and close the door. Perhaps something is wrong there? I don't remember any problems closing the film door. I hope this helps but if it doesn't please come back again and describe your actions and the feel of the door more fully.

Pull the dial round button up

You may download a copy of the manual from here.

Any Pentax K-mount lens will fit any Pentax DSLR. The DSLR will fire the shutter.  There is a menu setting (RTFM) which allows the use of older lenses, but you will lose some of the automation (again RTFM). Remember to allow that the effective focal length when using a "film" lens on a DSLR body goes up by 50%.
A standard 50mm lens becomes a 75mm equivalent, but stays a large aperture.

Push the lever on the front of the camera counterclockwise until it stops. To start the self-timer, push up slightly on the lever.If you need a manual, you may download a copy from here.

Unless you have experience repairing cameras, this is not a DIY fix. Take your camera to a reputable camera shop and have a trained professional look at it.

From what you've given, it sounds like the shutter is fried, or the mechanism jammed - or both. If you're wanting to keep the camera, and use it, you'll need to contact a repair technician and have them take a look at it for a repair estimate - assuming it's able to be repaired. Estimates will run you around $35 most places, if there's no shop near you KEH Camera which has a website is quite good.

The same thing just happened to my Nikon FE, and my estimates have been ranging anywhere from $105-145 to get it fixed. So, if you're willing to invest $100-150 (or more) in repairs...peraonally I'd pass and spend a little more on a tested and working model, good sources are KEH Camera, Adorama, and B&H Photo, all have websites, and all sell tested and guaranteed used equipment. IT'll cost you a little more up front, but long run repairs will cost far more on an unknown condition ebay special. Not to mention ebay prices often exceed what dealers charge for the same items in working condition.

First off, did you store it with batteries installed? If so, check the compartment to be sure there's no corrosion on the contacts. If there is, a pencil eraser works well to clean it off - I don't recommend using any sort of liquid since it can seep into the inside.

If that's not the issue, I can't remember if the ME Super is a mechanical or electronic shutter. Does the shutter function, without any batteries installed? If so, it's mechanical and will not depend on batteries, and therefore there is really no way to narrow down the cause of the issue beyond a good cleaning.

If on the other hand it will not function without batteries, but is with them, you know the power system is working, and the meter itself is the issue. It'll require a technican to open the camera and hunt down the exact cause. Cost for an estimate most places is around $35, if you don't have a local shop, KEH Camera which has a website is very good,

You can of course just use the camera without a working meter. Handheld meters can be picked up from $10-400 online (ebay and others), or you can guesstimate your exposures if using print film using the tried and tested "sunny-16" rule of exposure.

You don't need an adapter ring, you simply need the correct lens. Like many aftermarket lenses, the Hanimex was made in a number of different versions to fit many different camera mounting systems.

Your camera accepts lenses with a Pentax K bayonet mounting, so the fix is to sell your lens (it's not worth very much though) and buy another which also shouldn't cost very much. You can even get them for free simply by asking on FreeCycle, it's where virtually all of my film camera equipment has come from.

It *might* be possible to get an adapter, but it depends entirely upon which mount the Hanimex currently has (you didn't say, and it's not always obvious just by looking at the lens), and very few can be adapted to a K mount. Those that do will lose automatic aperture coupling, making the lens and camera rather awkward to use, and the coupling will likely cost more than another similar lens in the same zoom range.

The button you refer to is not the shutter release, instead it's used to disconnect the film advance mechanism to enable a used film to be rewound and so is called the film rewind button. Unlike later models, it is just a mechanical release, it does not actually rewind the film.

Usually, it will pop back out again if you operate the film advance lever, but your camera is now around thirty years old so it's highly likely that the internal lubricant films have dried out and gummed up the works.

Repair is not really a DIY option unless you are prepared to risk failure and ruining your camera in return for gaining experience. Professional repairers can carry out a CLA (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust) but the cost is more than your camera is worth in purely financial terms. They will also usually recommend a one-off additional fee for replacing the foam light seals and mirror buffer if it's not been done already as the original foam was unstable and will have either turned to corrosive black goo or gone further and dried out and fallen away.

If your camera is in good condition, then a CLA and seal replacement will give you a camera which is a joy to use and which has a huge range of high quality lenses available for free or very cheaply. It can produce results which still beat most digital cameras, especially if you scan the film after it has been developed. On that basis, although repairs make no economic sense, they are a cheap way to get a superb functional and useful camera. before investing in such repairs though, make sure that the two buttons on top of the camera which alter the shutter speed are working correctly. If they aren't, then the camera needs a new flexi circuit board and it's very difficult to replace and spares are almost non-existent. In that condition, your camera is best sold as a spares donor to keep other ME Supers going. Millions were sold, and although still popular they are easy to find in good condition for free (via FreeCycle, or asking friends, colleagues and family) or very cheaply via online resources and traditional used camera shops.

If you repair it yourself, then you basically need to strip it down, clean out all the old gummed up lubricants and replace them with fresh lube of the correct type. It's more difficult than it sounds with an ME Super as there are also a lot of soldered joints, and so if you wish to gain repair experience it's not a good model to begin with. Online repair manuals are available for free from many sources, just enter "ME Super repair manual" in your search box.

Sounds like your camera could use a cleaning and oiling, I'd suggest sending it off to Gus Lazzari for repair. He does good reliable work to film cameras. Hope this helps.

Have you not used it in a while?

This could be one of two issues:

One, it could be the battteries. The ME super is not a fully mechanical camera like the mx, if the batteries are depleted then the shutter sticks open as it does not know how long to stay open. Turning the selection wheel to 125X usually unsticks it.

Two, the lubricant that pentax used in the 70's and 80's has a very bad tendecy to polymerise and turn sticky and solid. This turns the camera inoperable. Pentax repair service routinely provide cleaning for affected cameras.

Hope this helps, its a great camera

All the screws on pentax cameras tighten counter-clockwise. Check and see if it tightens when you turn the screw to the left.

OK Turn the camera upside down. On the bottom is a small button in a recess. Press the button in. You may have to hold it in. Turn the camera the right way up. On the top at the left hand side is a small silver lever. It is folded into the top of the dial. Unfold it with a fingernail. Once unfolded you will see that it has become a winder. DO NOT PULL THE LEVER UPWARDS Now, while holding the button on the bottom, turn the lever clockwise. Keep turning untill you can feel no more resistance and you hear a sort of flapping noise from inside the camera. NOW pull up the lever. It will rise up on a shaft and at a vertain point it will click and the back of the camera will open. The film should all be inside the can. Take the can out and take it to a lab to be processed.
To put a film in. Locate a new can of film in the same place as the one you removed. and push down the lever back to its original place. This locks the fiilm can into place so that it cannot come out.
Pull out about 3 inches (7-8cm) of film out of the can and lay it across the camera so that the end is over the roller at the right hand side and touches the edge of the inside of the camera. If the film does not go over the roller then next part will not work.
Close the back of the camera. It will click into place and lock./
Now wind on the film 2 or 3 times. Start taking photos.